07-22-2017, 11:08 PM
07-23-2017, 07:43 PM
Wow, that's a pricey little add on:
https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/11573
I know this does not help with your question but since you are talking about spending some serious $$, have you considered using the Auto Pilot or I pilot on an Electric trolling motor?
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https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/11573
I know this does not help with your question but since you are talking about spending some serious $$, have you considered using the Auto Pilot or I pilot on an Electric trolling motor?
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07-23-2017, 09:29 PM
I have had that TR-1 Gold system on my boat for 12 years. The system worked really well for about 6 years. Then one day the kicker turned right and the system locked up. I had to spend $400 for a new gyro. When the system is working correctly it is very good. The TR-1 is old school with a real gyro. Garmin has a new system that you can get that uses an electronic stabilization. I would look into that. Its on their web site. The TR-1 will be around a long time because so many of them were sold. They set the standard for affordable small craft autopilot. I will run mine as long as I can get parts. Which has not been a problem so far. If I were fitting a new system I would shop. Consider that TR-1 is fussy about interface with GPS, magnetic interference with the gyro. Gyro positioning on the boat really has to be aligned with the kicker. There is a limit in rough water as far as how it will hold its heading. Old school controls makes it a challenge to calibrate and set up. The TR-1 attempt to correct heading is adjustable. So when the boat rocks and pitches the motor is waving around like a dog wagging its tail. This correcting is adjustable. Too much sensitivity and correction and it never stops moving your kicker around. Not enough and you drift off course. When you turn you push buttons. As soon as it locks on to the new heading a light goes from blinking to steady. That is the new course. Easy. Throttle control is push button too. But you learn how much as to much and its idle to full throttle! The controls are run by electric wire and there is a feel to it for sure.
My boat is large enough and hard to manage with trying to tiller the kicker. I has a standard 9.9 mercury kicker. The long shaft 9.9 works way better with the autopilot. Especially on boats with more free board. As far as autopilot. I have to have one. I would look at the options and get the most modern one. If the TR-1 was my only option I would get it. Its really nice to fish and not have to baby sit the kicker all the time.
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My boat is large enough and hard to manage with trying to tiller the kicker. I has a standard 9.9 mercury kicker. The long shaft 9.9 works way better with the autopilot. Especially on boats with more free board. As far as autopilot. I have to have one. I would look at the options and get the most modern one. If the TR-1 was my only option I would get it. Its really nice to fish and not have to baby sit the kicker all the time.
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07-24-2017, 05:01 AM
Great advice. I researched as much as I can the TR1 vs i-Pilot and the I-Pilot is my best option. My Lund already has a Minn Kota Power Drive V2 and batteries that I took off and stored when I bought the boat a couple years ago. I learned that for $450 I can add the I-Pilot head and accomplish what I wanted. Maybe next season (unless I have a weak moment sooner) I can upgrade to a Helix and utilize the I-Pilot link.
I'll be testing it out on Strawberry Thursday. I've heard of using the Kicker motor to push the boat and the I-Pilot to steer. Not sure how that works so I'll have to just figure it out.
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I'll be testing it out on Strawberry Thursday. I've heard of using the Kicker motor to push the boat and the I-Pilot to steer. Not sure how that works so I'll have to just figure it out.
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07-24-2017, 05:06 AM
Thank you for the very informative post. It reinforced my decision.
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07-24-2017, 02:13 PM
It's easy, a lot of members use the auto pilot feature that comes with I-pilot to steer their boat, you simply lock your gas trolling motor in the straight forward position, then adjust your speed after starting it. Then lower your electric trolling motor, I put mine on #5 power setting but it depend on the thrust of your motor. Not exactly sure how auto pilot works on I-pilot but with mine, it just has Auto pilot, I push the auto pilot button, then you steer the boat left or right, using your hand held control, depending on the direction you want to go. You might need to turn your gas motor up or down to adjust your speed a little, depending on if there is a wind or desired trolling speed but you just do all the directional control with your electric trolling motor.
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07-25-2017, 02:18 AM
The I pilot on your electric is not even close to running your boat down the lake all day on a kicker.
As soon as your electric is done your running your kicker manually. How long are your batteries good for? OK for a day at Willard but not for an extended trip. Like I said I have both and I would not go with out a real auto pilot. Go with the upgrade for the kicker, The I pilot is for bass fishermen.
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As soon as your electric is done your running your kicker manually. How long are your batteries good for? OK for a day at Willard but not for an extended trip. Like I said I have both and I would not go with out a real auto pilot. Go with the upgrade for the kicker, The I pilot is for bass fishermen.
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07-25-2017, 03:18 PM
Thank you for your detailed reply. I have been toying with the idea of getting the TR-1 Gold.
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07-26-2017, 02:24 AM
I would look into the Garmin GHP system. Modern, expandable and compatible with Garmin GPS.
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