Are fluoro. coated lines mono. coated or are they something else? I am guessing they are mono.
I was using full fluoro. but got cheap and started using the coated stuff. Do you think the visibility is the same for both or the full less visible?
I have not compared the stretch between the two but assume the full to have less stretch.
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I'm like you Fluorocarbon cost a lot
On my lake trout trolling reals I use to use Fluorocarbon
I changed to coated
the cost from amazon
17 lb P-Line 250 Yard Fluorocarbon $29.56
20 lb P-Line CX Premium Clear Fluorescent 1000 YD Spool $35.97
this seems to work just as good.
I like the 20 lb it is like a anchor if I get a snag.
but I use 15 lb P-Line Fluorocarbon for my leader for kokanee between dodger and lure. but may rethink this, had a knot on the bottom hook come undone and lost a big koke close to 4 lbs had a hard time netting him.
CX Premium
P-Line's CX Premium Fluorocarbon Coated Line is one of the most innovative lines available, combining copolymer and fluorocarbon technologies. With low memory and improved limpness, CX Premium eliminates the line nightmares of a spinning reel, and improves casting distance with a baitcasting reel. The fluorocarbon-silicone coating virtually eliminates water absorption, so cold water and weather have little effect on line performance. With as much as 30% less stretch than average lines, it has increased sensitivity to detect and react to even the most subtle strikes. This great all-purpose premium line is available in clear fluorescent and moss green and hi-vis fluorescent green
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Fluorocarbon lines are closer to the refractive properties of water, so they will be much less visible then the coated, but the coated are much less visible then the straight mono.
Coated lines will crack on the exterior because they stretch less then the core, but due to their less expensive cost you can afford to change them out more often.
Coated lines have less stretch then straight mono, and almost as low as straight fluoro, but, if you test the coated lines you will see they have a stretch rate to a point then as the coating starts to crack the stretch rate increases. You have to have pretty good equipment to do this test, and I don't have Idaho State University equipment to use anymore, LOL, but it is detectable. A snagged coated line means a damaged coated line.
I have both, and like both, and suggest both. You just need to know the pros and cons of each and see if you really need full fluoro or can get away with the coated.
As for the advertisements given with the lines, remember that they are written to sell lines, not to disclose truth. Take them with a "preverbal grain of salt".
Does anyone know the practical differences between cx premium versus flouroclear? I think flouroclear is hands down the best line I've ever used, for all applications. It is a coated line. I continually try other lines and take it off right when home, even high dollar flouro like seagar. I'm not opposed to keep trying, just haven't found one better yet. I do replace it quite often, after a while it tends to feel wrinkled deeper into the spool. But at $9 for 300yds, it not too bad.
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I buy Pline tactical....$$$ but like it![fishon]. I do back my reels with braid though and a little mono behind that.
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Never dreamed of the coating cracking like you say.
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When I was younger I would have never dreamed there was so much science going into something I was having fun with.
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[quote PACMEN]Never dreamed of the coating cracking like you say.[/quote]
It is not like you can see it without a microscope. I first documented it when I was testing a tensometer for an engineering experiment.
Seems like a long time ago now, long long long time ago. Uggg
There are so many different types of lines on the market now its hard to keep track. They all have there strong suits and selling points but for your average fisherman it's just not worth the time to try and figure them all out. Not only that, it just gets confusing and EXPENSIVE!!
Just my opinion, but if the majority of top pros in the bass fishing world reach for Fluorocarbon when money is on the line why shouldn't I do the same? Only reason I can come up with is that its expensive.
My fix for that is simple and is actually what a lot of the pros are doing. My main line is a braided line with a Fluorocarbon leader. This allows you to reap all the same benefits you would using straight Fluorocarbon with some added benefits as well. My favorite benefit being the SAVINGS. Yes, braided line is expensive too BUT it lasts A LOT longer. Getting your rods set up initially will be expensive but a spool of Fluorocarbon can easily last you two or more seasons. I have some that have seen their 4th and 5th seasons! The braid on your reel will last even longer! When it does start to get worn out (after several seasons) simply turn it over. Meaning, using the bottom fresh stuff as the top of the spool and you're back to having fresh braid for another few seasons.
You can just Google or YouTube "braid to fluoro" for others input and methods on what knots to tie to connect the two different lines. I like to use the Albright Knot myself but there are other options. Oh, and I use a 10 foot Fluorocarbon leader. Use too short of a leader and you might as well just use all braid.
In my opinion braided to Fluorocarbon is a hard to beat combo for "most" fishing applications.
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The problem I have had with braid is I can't cast it as far. Trolling and doing as you recommend is not as big an issue for me. Perhaps I have not tried the right braid.
I do however like to cast Nano Fil. 6lb Nano casts a mile for me and the min. stretch works good for hook sets.
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That's exactly what I do and it has served me well. Power Pro or Power Pro Slick 8 with Seaguar Invizx or Sunline FC Sniper as a leader is what I use with the aforementioned Alberto knot.
With the thinner diameter, I actually find that with a lot of presentations I get further casts with braid than with mono. I like to use 10lb braid with a fluoro leader for throwing suspending jerkbaits. When coupled with a soft tipped jerkbait rod I can bomb that thing a mile, and with the zero stretch of braid I can easily sense and set the hook on a fish with 100 feet of line out no problem. Unless I'm fishing crankbaits or spinnerbaits I'm all about braid with a leader.
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Me,too. Braid or Nanofil with a long Fluoro leader is my setup on ALL my rods. I much prefer Nanofil on my spinning rods, but still have a couple with braid in 20# test because the heavier Nanofil just isn't as good.
Good fluoro is expensive, but if you're only using 10 feet at a time a spool lasts forever. I like to have a turn or two of the leader on the reel for the cast, plus the longer leader means I can re-tie often without having to replace the leader.
I use either a uni-uni or a Red Phillips knot for the line/leader connection. The RP uses one uni anyway, so either choice is easy to tie. Never had either one fail.
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I've found that fluoro coated line handles more smoothly than pure fluoro lines and is less likely to loop and leave the angler with a birds nest in the spinning reel. I use fluoro coated on my lightweight 'backcountry" reels I use for things like fishing "fly and bubble". I find fluorocoated lines cast very well. Maybe something to consider for younger or less experienced anglers.
It also seems to be less durable so I don't use it for bass or catfish, where line takes a beating. It also is viable as a leader, although I use pure fluoro for that myself, as others have noted. For bassin, I mostly use copolymers and can't really argue with the results.
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