First off, I’m still a newbie to trolling. Bought a boat last year and still have a lot to learn. Here are my current questions.
1. What rod and reel do you recommend? I’m thinking about getting some level wind, line-counting reels but not sure which ones.
2. What line do you recommend? Mono, flourocarbon, braided, or lead core? I primarily fish Willard Bay but would like to be set up so I can try Bear Lake, Strawberry, Flamming Gorge, etc. Does a particular line work better for bottom bouncing and/or planner boards?
3. Planner boards, any tips with using braided line so that it will pop out of the first clip when a fish hits but stay in the clip during chopping waves? Any planner board lessons learned would be greatly appreciated.
4. Do you all prefer clip on weights, weighted line, bottom bouncers with the wires or something else to target fish towards the bottom of Willard?
I’m sure that there are a lot of other questions that I don’t even know to ask. If you have something you have learned to get me started in the right direction I would appreciate the advice.
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For line counter reels I run the Okuma cold water low profile, have friends the are using the new Daiwa LC’s but they are starting to have issues with the clickers and locking up the reel (same as earlier models it appears). I run 30# braid on all my reels with 50-100’ mono top shot depending on what I’m targeting connected to the braid with a reverse Albright knot ( for those reels that are not linecounters it gives me a known distance for setback. On planner boards my only experience with them is using them to pull plugs/spoons on the surface early and late season someone with more use will be better to answer those questions
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Wow that is a lot. Probably more productive to ask in different threads. I can take a single shot here though.
I have done quite a lot of trolling (my boat and others).
Rods - endless choices. I have several trolling specific rods - Fenwick Fennglass 8'6" paired with an Okuma line counter reel (choose a line counter reel). I prefer longer rods for some applications. I use a standard 10 lb mono line as most lures are calibrated for that when you consider their diving depths. I also use a shock leader to take some of the impact of the strike.
Also, have an Okuma classic 7 foot for Lead core - paired with a Penn for the lead line. Use a mono leader on the line. No need for a line counter unless you forgot how long you leader is - LOL. Lead line is counted with the colors.
I prefer mono over braid as it has a little more give and I don't have to do so much math on the fly to figure the depth my lure is diving. Although I did pick some braid that is has sections colored like lead core.
Of course with downriggers that does change things up a bit. Same with planer boards _ I have and have used both BTW.
I would consider bottom bouncing a separate topic here as well as the down riggers and planer boards.
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These questions are like asking what truck your prefer, dodge, chevy or ford. Everyone will have an opinion and most will do things a little different but here is my opinion
[quote fly_fishing_nut]First off, I’m still a newbie to trolling. Bought a boat last year and still have a lot to learn. Here are my current questions.
1. What rod and reel do you recommend? I’m thinking about getting some level wind, line-counting reels but not sure which ones.
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I like Okuma line counter reels, the cheapest ones the sell, I bought mine 15 years ago for $30 and have had no problems with them. I use those with mono only. My level wind reels that don't have line counters are used for lead core, as stated, you don't need to know how much line you are letting out with lead core line. Rods, for fishing for warm water fish like wipers, cats and big lake trout, I prefer a rod that is medium to medium heavy. For small trout and kokes I use a totally different setup but still use level wind reels, just smaller and I like light to ultra light rods, to help absorb the shock of the fish as they jump.[/#4040ff]
2. What line do you recommend? Mono, flourocarbon, braided, or lead core? I primarily fish Willard Bay but would like to be set up so I can try Bear Lake, Strawberry, Flamming Gorge, etc. Does a particular line work better for bottom bouncing and/or planner boards?
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I use Big Game mono, in no smaller than 12 lb test and up to 15 lb test. I don't use braid, except lead core. I've never found a bad lead core line, so any you pick will be fine IMO but I try and buy it when it is on sale, if i can but lead core last a very long time, like 10 plus years, so you don't have to replace it often. I do not like braided line when using side planers, it is too slick and I've had the clip come loose when using it in the past, that is why I don't like braid.[/#4040ff]
3. Planner boards, any tips with using braided line so that it will pop out of the first clip when a fish hits but stay in the clip during chopping waves? Any planner board lessons learned would be greatly appreciated.
[#4040ff]I prefer Church brand side planers, the TX-6 Magnum Mini Planer Board is my favorite, because of it's small size, with less resistance but I never try and set them to come loose when the fish hit them. This is a lessons I learned when I first started using them, the board slides down to the fish and spooks them and they go nuts, causing the fish to be lost.[/#4040ff]
4. Do you all prefer clip on weights, weighted line, bottom bouncers with the wires or something else to target fish towards the bottom of Willard?
[#4040ff] I use them all in different situations. Bottom bouncers for going slow 1 mph or less. Snap weights when going faster 2 mph up to 3 mph, mainly on the rod that has a side planer on it, to get my lures deeper. Lead core for trolling deep, closer to the bottom and I run those rods straight out the back.[/#4040ff]
I’m sure that there are a lot of other questions that I don’t even know to ask. If you have something you have learned to get me started in the right direction I would appreciate the advice.[/quote]
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you did not say any thing about downriggers
if you want to troll FG and strawberry you need downriggers
you can use downriggers at Willard Bay
the kind of line you use depends on how you fish but I will go along with 10 lb mono
watch you tube, google everything you can think of about fishing
go out with some one and see what they use
spend money till you get what you like
you are the only one that nos what will work for you
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Really depends how much coin you want to spend on a reel. All my willard/gorge lake trout reels are shimano tekota 600LC. I have 6 old ones and 4 newer tekota a. Love line counters for Willard. I have some Abu Garcia line counters that are similar to a c3...I think they have one less ball bearing. They are about half the price of the tekotas and would work. I use them on rods for kokanee and rainbows with planers. I use c3 and c4 reels on all my downrigger kokanee rods. For Willard and lake trout at the gorge (would work for bear lake), I use the 7'6" ugly stik striper casting rod medium light...yes medium light.. you will love it! It is a strong but flexible rod that is great for trolling. I have 10 of them. They are about $40 per rod. Planers...I currently use the offshore tackle with tattle flags inline boards. I am about to switch to big boards in 2 weeks, but inlines will work for Willard. I use 15 lbs pline tactical florocarbon. I put 200 yards after 300 yards of 20 lbs cfx line that is cheaper to complete the spool. I hope that helps.
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Get yourself some downriggers if you are going to troll bear lake or the gorge. You won't regret it. Willard you can use snap weights with florocarbon line...I rarely do, but have on occasions. I usually don't need to get my lure deeper. It dives enough on its own at Willard. I don't use downriggers at Willard. Use 4 downriggers on any other lake around here though. Use planers at willard!
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I am biased...I hate braid on trolling reels. I have had to many times that it has dug into the rest of the line. I like it for jigging though. I used to have all my laker trolling reels with it on, but I have pulled it all off and thrown it away.
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For kokanee and trout I mainly use velocity ninja or the blue kokanee rods. They won't work very well with inline planers though, but great for downriggers. I use the ugly stik with inline planers. Plan on using my lamiglas x11 ultra lights with big boards for trout.
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First off, thanks to everyone that has tried to answer my many questions. Lots of great info!
My boat is a 16’ bass boat, I do have 4 rod holders and one down rigger for it. Is there a particular length trolling rod that I should look at? For my size boat I tend to prefer the ones on the shorter size (7’ or 7’ 6”) just because it is easier to handle with a couple people in the boat. However, does a longer pole work better when using planner boards? What stiffness is best for planner boards (medium, medium-light, medium-heavy, etc.). I know most of my fishing will be at Willard with planner boards.
I’ve found a couple combos that Okuma makes that look like a good starting point for me. The Okuma Classic and the Okuma Great Lakes combos. They both use Okuma Magda MA20DX reels. Anyone use these? I know they are entry level (like $70 combos). Worth buying to start or do I need to invest more money to be happy?
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I have been to Willard 17 times this year. Those ugly stik striper casting medium light work well for planers and downriggers. Every rod is so different. Find one you like and go with it. It is all personal preference. I have gone through many rods and found those.
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[quote liketrolling]
if you want to troll FG and strawberry you need downriggers
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Robert, I respectfully disagree. Downriggers make it nice, but other options can be used; especially, on a budget.
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Downriggers would definitely be ideal for those lakes. I am going to try some 3 to 6 oz weights on a slip clevis off a big board to get more rods out for kokanee along with our downrigger rods.
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Hey Kent, If I recall we did pretty fair a few times at Strawberry without using riggers. Being no budget and kind of lazy like we were we just sort of drifted and still caught fish. We might have even drifted off to sleep if I recollect correctly.
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[quote fly_fishing_nut]First off, thanks to everyone that has tried to answer my many questions. Lots of great info!
My boat is a 16’ bass boat, I do have 4 rod holders and one down rigger for it. Is there a particular length trolling rod that I should look at?
For my size boat I tend to prefer the ones on the shorter size (7’ or 7’ 6”) just because it is easier to handle with a couple people in the boat. However, does a longer pole work better when using planner boards?
[#4040ff]The size of the poles you use is a personal choice but I prefer longer poles on the rods that I use on the outside, when using side planers, simply because it keeps the lines from tangling when you reel them in, with the inside lines still out.[/#4040ff]
What stiffness is best for planner boards (medium, medium-light, medium-heavy, etc.). I know most of my fishing will be at Willard with planner boards.
[#4040ff]As I said in my reply above, at Willard I use medium to medium heavy rods.[/#4040ff]
I’ve found a couple combos that Okuma makes that look like a good starting point for me. The Okuma Classic and the Okuma Great Lakes combos. They both use Okuma Magda MA20DX reels. Anyone use these?
[#4040ff]I have the next size up MA30DX but that size will work just as good and you won't have to put as much line on it. I also have two Cabela's Depth Masters, DM30.[/#4040ff]
I know they are entry level (like $70 combos). Worth buying to start or do I need to invest more money to be happy?
[#4040ff]A $70 combo like that will treat you just fine for many years. If after using them for several years, you decide to upgrade you can always keep the old ones in case someone goes out with you that doesn't have any line counter reels but I think you will be happy with them for a long time.[/#4040ff]
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