I spent this morning at Willard slow trolling Fligs for catfish. One rod had an Ambassadeur 6600 with the clicker, the other was a spinning outfit. Both worked, each accounting for 2 fish. The Ambassadeur requires little attention, simply wait until it sings, however I wonder how many fish drop the bait before I can reach it. The spinning reel is the opposite and requires constant monitoring. I looked away long enough for a course adjustment and when I turned around the rod was bent to the water and the drag was running away, unfortunately this fish carried a hook remover.
So I was wondering how many folks prefer a clicker or not.
I did learn one important lesson today, cut the spines off before you toss kitty's into the livewell. Trying to remove the drain plug from a livewell full of hyper active catfish is like playing fully automatic dodgeball, it sounds like fun but it really isn't.
Properly baited and presented, fligs work a lot like circle hooks. They pull into the corner of the fishes' mouths as the fish powers away and they hook themselves...usually. For that reason, you need to leave the reel in gear...or bail closed...but with enough drag to both set the hook and allow the hooked fish to take line without breaking line or a rod. Takes a bit of adjusting but that is definitely the best way to fish them. I fish both spinning and bait cast from my tube and both work well.
On the other hand, if you are dragging minnows...without a flig...and want the fish to take a little like before you set the hook then the clicker is a good thing. With a spinning rod and plain bait I leave the bail open but tuck a loop of line under a plastic clip on the rod. Then when the fish hits it can run off line without drag or pressure.
I spent the morning on Willard as well, I did not manage to get any fish to the boat. Had a few hits and one that took a bit of drag before spitting out the circle hook. I was in a kayak started out from Pelican beach and made it down through most of freeway bay. This was my first time using a worm rig that had a floating spinner. Not quite a flig setup, but not sure the best way to fish it. I had a bottom bouncer and this rig trailing about 20”
I'm with TD. When I started fishing for cats 2 years ago I bought a couple of reels with clickers. I soon learned that with circle hooks it was better for the fish to have the line anchored so the hook can turn and set in their mouths. As I evolved as a catman I've started to do like TD said and sometimes adjust my drag so that the fish have the resistance that sets the hook but they can also run with it a bit. But if you want to stay traditional I can tell you what BLK does. Sometimes he holds the line between his thumb and forefinger. I guess he can feel the lightest bite and react accordingly. As a side note, I've only fished Willard once, going for wipers. Ended up catching two cats on the wiper lures. Go figure. They certainly didn't need a hookset.
I've used TDs big fligs a lot this year because they just plain work. Those sickle hooks are great. Only problem is that once in a while they swallow them and I end up having to take them home to eat and retrieve the lures. I bought some long-reach pliers with a bent tip to see if I could reach in and get the flig out of their gullet. Wouldn't you know it, I haven't had a deep hook since so I don't know how they work. The real trick is to grab the hook behind the flig body so you don't rip it up.
Thanks guys, I'm going back to Willard Monday morning, I'll leave the spool engaged. This is my rookie year with fligs and different species have their own way of biting them. Catfish and burbot simply inhale them and run, trout tap at them and require a hookset.
These are what I was using Friday, chartreuse rainbow and spotted chartreuse. The large ones are on a 1/0 Fenwick worm hook, the small one is a #4 curved nymph hook.
The first time I uploaded this photo there was a Land Rover spam link, not sure why it worked this time.
Where do I find fligs at? Or how to make them.
(09-12-2020, 07:45 PM)thatchergreg Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks guys, I'm going back to Willard Monday morning, I'll leave the spool engaged. This is my rookie year with fligs and different species have their own way of biting them. Catfish and burbot simply inhale them and run, trout tap at them and require a hookset.
These are what I was using Friday, chartreuse rainbow and spotted chartreuse. The large ones are on a 1/0 Fenwick worm hook, the small one is a #4 curved nymph hook.
The first time I uploaded this photo there was a Land Rover spam link, not sure why it worked this time.
Not bad for a rookie. But there are several colors that work especially well at Willard. In the attached photo I will refer you to the chartreuse perch, perple purch, fire tiger and blue-back silver. Most colors will work but those seem to be effective year round...fished with small minnows, perch meat or other fish flesh. They work well with crawlers most of the time too.
One other comment. I too like using marabou. But it doesn't hold up well when used on fligs. I prefer a few strands of holographic Flashabou. It adds extra sparkle and holds up through a lot of fish chomping. But there are some patterns in which marabou or hackle feathers might improve the attraction.
There is also the matter of using very sharp hooks and making sure there is a good hook gap if you want to get more hookups on the strike. I use Matzuo sickle hooks but there are plenty of other sharp hooks...or you can touch them up with a hook hone. But sharper is better.
If you ever want to visit my playroom and have me show you some of my painting tricks I'd be happy to share.
Pat,
I would like to see your painting technique one day, maybe when it starts getting cold outside.
What are you using to make the silver look like chrome? I have CS vinyl paint and the silver looks opaque.
I second your belief in sharp hooks, they are the cheapest part of fishing and the worst place to pinch pennies.
Along with marabou I use Arctic fox tail, bucktail, and dyed wool. Stiff synthetics like supreme hair are durable but I think they could interfere with a fish sucking in the bait.
JArner,
Pat has an excellent tutorial on flig making. If you want I would be happy to show you my technique, its quick but does require a drill and belt sander.
Thanks, I’d be happy to have either or in fact both tutorials. I’ve got a drill and could pick up a belt sander. I’ve been looking at the EPS method that uses jig molds, but none of the molds I’ve seen really offer what I want. Since they have mostly been designed around lead based pours.
This is a quick look at how I shape the bodies.
First I make a pilot hole with a sewing awl, the closer to center the better.
Then I slide the foam over a bamboo skewer chucked in a drill.
Running the drill in reverse so the foam and sanding belt are moving in opposite directions I start by sanding a taper on the front .
Then I sand the rear taper
And lastly I round off the middle section. Of course, all of this assumes that you obtained a foam kneeling pad and cut the plugs with some sort of hole saw, I use a .458 winchester magnum case with the mouth sharpened.
TubeDudes tutorial goes into much more detail, including foam selection, cutting, painting, and gluing the body onto the hooks so there isn't any need for me to repeat it.
If I did this correctly, this should be TubeDudes complete tutorial.
Everything is there if you click on the photos
(09-13-2020, 12:32 AM)thatchergreg Wrote: [ -> ]Pat,
What are you using to make the silver look like chrome? I have CS vinyl paint and the silver looks opaque.
You can use silver paint as a base. But as you have found, it is not very shiny. I prefer a good white base. I use glitter...mixed into clear gloss vinyl paint from CS components. It takes practice to get the mixture just right...enough to cover the flig well but not too much so that it runs. The key is to apply a first light coat...and rotate the drying flig with a pair of hemostats until the coat sets well enough so that it will not "migrate". That is usually only about 45 seconds to 1 minute. Then apply a second light coat over the first...making sure all of the gaps are filled in. Generally no need to rotate the hook after the second coat...since in bonds to the first. Then hang the hooks on a rack to finish drying...for at least 5 to 10 minutes before applying paint or eyes.
I have gone through hundreds of types of glitter...in almost every size and color available. I have pretty much standardized on using fine or extra fine glitters...from Barlows or more recently from Hobby Lobby. They have an extra fine glitter in many good colors...at a very good price, compared to others. It is the one in the attached picture.
I am trying to attach links to the two halves of the tutorial I put together on Making Fligs. Hope this works.
MAKING FLIGS 1.pdf
MAKING FLIGS 2.pdf