Mike have you fished your planer board system much yet? Just curious if it improves catch rates, and I know this will vary from season to season.. I think when the fish are shallow this will work better than summer time when they go deep, but maybe I just need to learn how to go deeper without a down rigger so I can go out the side and down low at the same time... Anyway I'm hoping the cats will be more willing to hit a moving bait if the boat isn't as close to scare them off.. Between the side scan and the side planer maybe I can figure out how to put a bait in front of the big cats... I'm hoping so anyway... Later Jeff
Jordanell last Dec for kokes, the mast work great, limited out, but like I said if you go up on the front deck the string can be in the way, working on moving it right at the bow, using a 3/4 seat pin hole, with extendable mast, the string will still be tied on the same,
the planer boards is the most expensive thing so far, but I used gift cards, used them over the weekend, I think I have the weights right to where they work and float the best, I wish i could get rid of the black piece that you hook the string to, still working on that for storage reasons, but everything I try they dont like it,
Now I have the board working right, at one point I had 2 lines on the same side, one at the board and one half way pulling cranks, it was working good even in rough water, It is hard to fine the happy spot between it working the best and storage, I want it put way in the boat and to work good, I think Im close with my set up,
Sounds good on your fine tuning... The home built planer I have is one of the double boards so it's not going to fit in any storage bins on my boat... Well unless I find a better spot for life jackets... I'm thinking I needed a bigger boat so there was some storage in it... I think the year model I got was before they figured out how to make storage lockers everywhere... and it really doesn't have much... Too bad those new ones look like they would be great for having a spot for all your gear.... But the $40 k savings is probably worth a little less storage space...
Since it's all new to me, I don't know how much the bow space being tied up with the mast and lines will effect me yet, but I like your idea of the smaller seat post socket at the point of the bow... Not having the bow electric motor yet, I'll be a little careful using any real-estate up there till I know what i'll need for more important items...
But it was great to hear that this clip method is working for you... I know the little bit I used it on my personal pontoon I really liked it, but it was such a hassle to set up on that toon, that I didn't try it very often because to the time factor involved... plus it was hard to reach behind me to hook the clips on the line, but after that point it seemed to fish really well and I caught fish out to the side... Sure seems like this will be a lot easier to do from the boat, so I'm looking forward to trying it...
One other question, the YouTube videos claim the surging of the board makes for better fish catching, did you notice a difference from your line closest to the planer board and those that were maybe midway out the line? I kind of wonder if the board cutting the water might scare fish away also but maybe when your lines are back a hundred feet it won't matter as much... I'll probably be using shorter line fall backs due to shallow water, lot of variables to work through... Looking forward to figuring things out... Hope it's not like farming where the questions are always the same, but the answers are different from year to year... Later Jeff
(02-23-2022, 04:17 PM)SkunkedAgain Wrote: [ -> ]Sounds good on your fine tuning... The home built planer I have is one of the double boards so it's not going to fit in any storage bins on my boat... Well unless I find a better spot for life jackets... I'm thinking I needed a bigger boat so there was some storage in it... I think the year model I got was before they figured out how to make storage lockers everywhere... and it really doesn't have much... Too bad those new ones look like they would be great for having a spot for all your gear.... But the $40 k savings is probably worth a little less storage space...
Since it's all new to me, I don't know how much the bow space being tied up with the mast and lines will effect me yet, but I like your idea of the smaller seat post socket at the point of the bow... Not having the bow electric motor yet, I'll be a little careful using any real-estate up there till I know what i'll need for more important items...
But it was great to hear that this clip method is working for you... I know the little bit I used it on my personal pontoon I really liked it, but it was such a hassle to set up on that toon, that I didn't try it very often because to the time factor involved... plus it was hard to reach behind me to hook the clips on the line, but after that point it seemed to fish really well and I caught fish out to the side... Sure seems like this will be a lot easier to do from the boat, so I'm looking forward to trying it...
One other question, the YouTube videos claim the surging of the board makes for better fish catching, did you notice a difference from your line closest to the planer board and those that were maybe midway out the line? I kind of wonder if the board cutting the water might scare fish away also but maybe when your lines are back a hundred feet it won't matter as much... I'll probably be using shorter line fall backs due to shallow water, lot of variables to work through... Looking forward to figuring things out... Hope it's not like farming where the questions are always the same, but the answers are different from year to year... Later Jeff
Just a bigger boat, geewiz I calculated I need 5 different ones, depending on the day,, atleast a 24 volt, terova great Ultera even greater, always depends on the $, I to built one of those bigger double boards, it works great, but the storage problem, I am trying to keep this boat organized and un cluttered, with everything in it, harder than it looks,
It takes time and adjustments to get it the way YOU want it, sometimes just sitting and pretending, I am still moving stuff around and Yes the question is always the same, Wat and Hoe to catch fish, But the answer is always different by the minute.
Ya know I have the same problem with my ice fishing goodies, I start with a pretty well organized tote that I take on my trips with me and seems like every trip has different requirements, so I'm having to reorganize my tote quite often depending on where I'm fishing and what I'm after... I got my rod boxes to where one is my panfish box and the other the trout box, but sometimes they don't cross over so i can't just take one box, so I have to bring both, sometimes I take company and need extra batteries and fish finders, sometimes I just go after local fish and only need one rod, an auger and some bait... I expect the boat will be the same, maybe I just need an organized tote to take for each trip... I'm afraid the boat will be too much to organize for each trip... better just get the important boat stuff so it always runs and if it don't, I'll have stuff to limp home if necessary... Would be nice to have change of plans stuff available in the boat too, like the side planer or down riggers just in case...
Hey I seen another YouTuber that found some rails he put on the rear part of his boats gunnels so he could change in and out stuff like the down riggers and rod holders and etc. Have you seen anything like that or know where a good redneck could find something that could be used to do that with? Think i may take a trip to the scrap yard and see what they have... The new systems they have won't fit the older boats, so I need to adapt to what I have available to me... Finding aluminum would be even better, but maybe hard to do... Later J
(02-23-2022, 08:07 PM)SkunkedAgain Wrote: [ -> ]Ya know I have the same problem with my ice fishing goodies, I start with a pretty well organized tote that I take on my trips with me and seems like every trip has different requirements, so I'm having to reorganize my tote quite often depending on where I'm fishing and what I'm after... I got my rod boxes to where one is my panfish box and the other the trout box, but sometimes they don't cross over so i can't just take one box, so I have to bring both, sometimes I take company and need extra batteries and fish finders, sometimes I just go after local fish and only need one rod, an auger and some bait... I expect the boat will be the same, maybe I just need an organized tote to take for each trip... I'm afraid the boat will be too much to organize for each trip... better just get the important boat stuff so it always runs and if it don't, I'll have stuff to limp home if necessary... Would be nice to have change of plans stuff available in the boat too, like the side planer or down riggers just in case...
Hey I seen another YouTuber that found some rails he put on the rear part of his boats gunnels so he could change in and out stuff like the down riggers and rod holders and etc. Have you seen anything like that or know where a good redneck could find something that could be used to do that with? Think i may take a trip to the scrap yard and see what they have... The new systems they have won't fit the older boats, so I need to adapt to what I have available to me... Finding aluminum would be even better, but maybe hard to do... Later J
Jeff I have some of the rail system I took off my boat ( Bert’s Track) take a look at their website and see if you want it
I would need to see a pic of you gunnel, I have some stuff that might work for you, will pm tonight with pics,
Mike and Alan, I'll get back with you guys on those... I like the idea, but need to do some measurements and see if my stuff will work with them.. Thanks Jeff
(02-24-2022, 02:25 PM)SkunkedAgain Wrote: [ -> ]Mike and Alan, I'll get back with you guys on those... I like the idea, but need to do some measurements and see if my stuff will work with them.. Thanks Jeff
Jeff,
You should definitely take up 2Knots offer on the Berts Track.
I use the same thing but made by Cannon. I then use Cannon 6” swivel towers to mount my riggers in.
Very compact, easy to use system.
I then made aluminum plates with Scotts pole holder bases bolted on that slide in to my Cannon tracks when I pull off the riggers for Walleye.
Jeff I was just going to say nice boat and I hope you have some fun fixing it up that can make it truly your investment and start the memories. I'm glad you got the kicker situation figured out, when I stopped to get gear oil last week I was curious what a new outboard would cost me and he saiD on the 150 hp and 115 hp outboard is 56 weeks wait and the 9.9hp kickers were 23 weeks out. I don't know for sure since I'm not ordering right now but at $17000 roughly for a 150hp when the time comes I don't know what I'll do. But you Jeff are pretty handy and have a good start to a nice boat
Shane, I've been looking at the tracks some more and I do think I'll end up going that direction... I think I'll need a 4', 3', two 18" and maybe 2 at 12" in my wish list set up... I'll start with the two long ones for the back of the boat. They will be the most important to the boat set up...
Justin, thanks for the info and it's crazy how expensive new motors are these days... Hopefully this motor will be strong and run well for me... I've been working on the fuel line lately and I probably need to ask a question to everyone, has anyone put a "T" fitting on the fuel line out of the boat tank to the motor? I want to split the fuel line to my main and kicker motor, they both use unmixed fuel, so I can just use fuel from the same tank, but I'm not sure if it will limit the fuel flow too much. I don't worry about the kicker motor, but I am a little concerned about starving the fuel to main motor at full speed... Do I need to upsize the fuel line to 3/8" diameter instead of 5/16"? On snowmobiles in the hillclimbs we used to have to put additional pumps and bigger supply lines so we didn't starve the engines for fuel, but they relied on the fuel for lubrication as well, so maybe it won't be as important on an outboard... Just curious if anyone has had issues doing this? Thanks J
(02-28-2022, 06:01 PM)SkunkedAgain Wrote: [ -> ]Shane, I've been looking at the tracks some more and I do think I'll end up going that direction... I think I'll need a 4', 3', two 18" and maybe 2 at 12" in my wish list set up... I'll start with the two long ones for the back of the boat. They will be the most important to the boat set up...
Justin, thanks for the info and it's crazy how expensive new motors are these days... Hopefully this motor will be strong and run well for me... I've been working on the fuel line lately and I probably need to ask a question to everyone, has anyone put a "T" fitting on the fuel line out of the boat tank to the motor? I want to split the fuel line to my main and kicker motor, they both use unmixed fuel, so I can just use fuel from the same tank, but I'm not sure if it will limit the fuel flow too much. I don't worry about the kicker motor, but I am a little concerned about starving the fuel to main motor at full speed... Do I need to upsize the fuel line to 3/8" diameter instead of 5/16"? On snowmobiles in the hillclimbs we used to have to put additional pumps and bigger supply lines so we didn't starve the engines for fuel, but they relied on the fuel for lubrication as well, so maybe it won't be as important on an outboard... Just curious if anyone has had issues doing this? Thanks J
Ya I had one on my old boat, it worked ok AS long as there is no leak of it being able to suck air back through the kicker fuel line, if you can come right off the tank with a diffrent stand pipe in the tank is best, for what you ate doing tho, if possible I would put a shut off valve at the T fitting, at least carry vise grips to pinch off the kicker fuel line, MAKE sure to buy OEM fuel lines, I tried several aftermarket cheaper ones, this is why I know to have vise grips, after I put OEM fuel line on with the T fitting all was good, it is in the primer bulb that is the problem, the cheaper ones are cheaper and will alow air to come back and into the big engine, it works, but keep something to pinch the lines off if needed,,,
Thanks Mike, I have put a primer ball on each line between the "T" and the motor to prime them up and one was an aftermarket from WalMart and I can't get that one to prime, so I will be changing it out with an OEM model... they seem to be more flexible and last longer anyway... I've got to buy new fuel line anyway, so I think I'll put 3/8" between the tank and the T and maybe to the big motor. As long as I can get all of the fittings to seal I'm hoping I'll be fine... Sure would like to get on the water and try a few of these things out before it's time to fish for serious... I hate wasting fishing time, messing with boat issues... Later Jeff
It seemed that if that primer did no seal and let fuel back to tank the big motor run bad, pinched off the kicker fuel line it run ok, maybe a valve on the kicker fuel line just after the t fitting,
It seems Im wasting time watching ice melt and refreeze, what happened to this global warming stuff,
ICEBEGONE!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Mike I'll bet this week will open things up for you... At least things are changing fairly fast on the river up here.. I put some new fuel line components on yesterday and now it looks like the main motor fuel line may kink when I turn to the one side... So I better figure out a better length of line so it won't pinch it off like it is doing now... Kicker line looks really good though... Won't be too much longer now, springs on the way... Later J
So the ice finally cleared from the boat ramp, so I took the boat out for a shake down cruise... Turns out it launches a lot easier than my old boat and when I backed it down the ramp it decided to unload on it's own and well, I had forgotten to tie a new rope onto the front so I ended up taking a little fast wade to grab the boat before it got out too deep, only a little over my knees before I caught it... Should have had hip boots instead of knee boots...
But when I went to start it, it fired right up and after a little warm up it ran great... In fact I had to see how fast it would go, so I opened it up, 38 mph on the gps and it gets there really fast... So I was really happy with that, seems the old boat topped out about 28 mph, and 17 the last few trips... The hull design seems to make for a really smooth ride, I think I'm really going to like this boat... I was worried about the running it in shallow water on Cutler since its a much bigger boat, I was afraid it would really churn up the mud, but I didn't see any during all those deep digging starts and I was trying with the motor full down just to see if it would have issues... So far so good, I think it sits a lot higher in the water than my old boat did...
One issue, the tilt on the motor decided to quit lowering when I got it out, anyone know any tips on tilt motors when they don't start one direction? It still goes up, but didn't kick in to go down, after working fine while I was on the water... I also had about a gallon or two of water come out the drain plug when I got it on the trailer... I had my transducer red neck rigged on back and it splashed a lot of water in the back area by the motors, I forget what that bay is called, but it does have a screw in access plug to the lower hull area in that bay that may not be water tight... So I'm hoping the water came from there, not rivets or some other leak in the hull...
Trolling motor was having issues, think it may have set too long with gas left in it, so I'll have to look at that... It has always been a really easy running motor, so I must have let the carbs get crap built up in them... Anyway a lot left to do, but I'm getting more excited about it for sure.. Later J
Glad if floats for ya, it seem like there is alway something to mess with, check all the wiring connections to see one come undone under the engine cover, livewell hoses and pumps like to leak,