Fishing Forum - My 7.3 Diesel

One day last week I decided to take my dog on a road trip to get out of the house. As I came to the Morgan exit, I noticed a battery light flickering on the dash. That ended road trip and immediately returned home. By the time I got home the batt flickering started to settle into full time on. Checking with my multimeter found alternator quit charging. I've replaced the alternator before with a lifetime replacement from Napa. This makes about the 3rd time since purchased in 2006, good investment. Next, I put the DTC code reader on finding I had 3 codes. The first one was a "water in fuel" code which I had a spare filter draining & replacing filter. Also, found my "water in fuel" light wasn't working-possible bad bulb and need to go into dash researching, its suppose too briefly illuminate whenever ignition is turned on, out of site out mind. Next codes were exhaust back pressure sensor and exhaust back pressure high output sensor. The exhaust back press sensor is located at the front of the engine and the high output is in the exhaust pipe below the turbo. After gathering information, the exhaust back press sensor could be clogged causing other sensor to trip a code. Also, this sensor causes other issues such as excessive black smoke, fuel mileage dropped off from 18mpg to 12mpg, and hard shifting with the transmission. These symptoms I have with my motor but never realized something was going on as the truck ran well, if it hadn't been for alternator going down in my opinion. Not once did I get a check engine light. After changing sensor & line, both DTC codes cleared. I'm awaiting opportunity to do a good mileage check; excessive black smoke is now cleared up some but always had a little in the past when it was running right. Not sure yet with transmission shifting issue either at this time.

This is the exhaust back press line that

attaches to sensor at front of engine to front

of exhaust manifold passenger side

Sometimes the sensor line can be reused providing

it can be unclogged, this line is fully clogged. Also, I

found 3 cracks in this short line making it unsalvageable.

Unfortunately, this was a $90 purchase (OUCH) from dealer

which had it on hand. I could have gotten it for half the

price and other sources would have to backorder which

I couldn't get a date for delivery.

This is the sensor, which is a $135 item, it was
fully clogged, I tried clearing some of the
harden black soot buildup. I opted also to
purchase this from dealer since its manufactured
by Motorcraft and in stock. I saw other wannabe
sensors for a lot cheaper made in China, no thanks.

(01-05-2023, 02:51 PM)Bduck Wrote: [ -> ]Next, I put the DTC code reader on finding I had 3 codes. The first one was a "water in fuel" code which I had a spare filter draining & replacing filter. Also, found my "water in fuel" light wasn't working-possible bad bulb and need to go into dash researching, its suppose too briefly illuminate whenever ignition is turned on, out of site out mind. Next codes were exhaust back pressure sensor and exhaust back pressure high output sensor. The exhaust back press sensor is located at the front of the engine and the high output is in the exhaust pipe below the turbo. After gathering information, the exhaust back press sensor could be clogged causing other sensor to trip a code. Also, this sensor causes other issues such as excessive black smoke, fuel mileage dropped off from 18mpg to 12mpg, and hard shifting with the transmission. These symptoms I have with my motor but never realized something was going on as the truck ran well, if it hadn't been for alternator going down in my opinion. Not once did I get a check engine light. After changing sensor & line, both DTC codes cleared. I'm awaiting opportunity to do a good mileage check; excessive black smoke is now cleared up some but always had a little in the past when it was running right. Not sure yet with transmission shifting issue either at this time.

Where on the dash is the water in fuel light. I have a 99 and it may not even have it. Could a person easily remove the hose from the easiest end and look to see if it is plugged? Just reading the codes is probably the thing to do, since it's never had that done. Thanks for the info!!

(01-05-2023, 04:51 PM)Fowl-Hook Wrote: [ -> ]Where on the dash is the water in fuel light. I have a 99 and it may not even have it. Could a person easily remove the hose from the easiest end and look to see if it is plugged? Just reading the codes is probably the thing to do, since it's never had that done. Thanks for the info!!

Assuming your truck is same body style as mine, there was an early body style that is what the F150 is.

Over to the left side of gauge panel just above the battery symbol is where "water in fuel" light is. If its not working, chance is it needs a 194-size bulb. If you can't see it take a bright flashlight aiming into dash. You may have to angle light to see lettering. As stated in previous post, when ignition is turned on "water in fuel" will briefly illuminate and go off.
FYI-I changed most of my dash lights over to LED which brightened it up for the gauges, turn signals, other dash lights. Simple

A new Modification plan in the works

My truck is approaching the 200K mileage mark. I just got the 5K oil change done last week. I took it to the dealer since they do an inspection of steering components as well as other exterior inspections. I kept up with tie rods, ball joints, pitman arm, & wheel bearings previously so the inspection went quite well. The only 2 things flagged was air filter was dirty but let that go since putting aftermarket air intake system opening up to more air flow, and a slight oil leak on the lower side engine (nothing dropping on driveway).

Next mod which is done with a lot of trucks Ford, Chevy, Dodge is dropping fuel tank for cleaning internally. The sending unit mine has as well as others have screens that pick up a lot of crud which over time will starve expensive injectors can & will cause failure. I will remove the screens permanently, install a sump kit with an external frame mount pre-pump fuel filter using either a 10-or 25-micron filter. The sump kit is mounted on bottom outside of tank away from sending unit return avoiding any & all bubbles created. Also, utilizing stock fuel filter that mounted on top of my motor. A look into YouTube will assist in install application.

Frame mounted pre-pump filter adapter.

This is just one example of a sump kit that can be used.
If your using your vehicle on rough terrain going over rocks
protection of sump must be provided. A simple kit is not expensive
at all which is around $25. The pic above is $52.

I have never heard of anyone dropping their fuel tank, unless the in tank fuel pump goes bad, is this just a problem diesel trucks have?

(01-16-2023, 06:21 PM)wiperhunter2 Wrote: [ -> ]I have never heard of anyone dropping their fuel tank, unless the in tank fuel pump goes bad, is this just a problem diesel trucks have?

Curt, There is trash in all fuel. There has been warnings whenever a tanker services a station wait until fuel has settled before fueling up. Why is there a fuel filter on all vehicles? How often do you change your filter? Water in fuel for diesel is not a good thing to have. Algae is known to grow in diesel tanks, especially in higher humidity areas. My truck DOES NOT have a tank internal fuel pump like other vehicles. It is frame mounted in front of fuel tank which I replaced 3yrs ago. Now, what do you think about ethanol gas? Not everyone find nonethanol affordable when fueling up there vehicles or even their boats. Ethanol fuel in a vented fuel system such as boats will form moisture in the tanks. Of coarse there are additives you can use but how many do this. It is less likely with vehicles since they are a enclosed system. Now with this said, I won’t be buying a new vehicle, besides it’s not worth another mortgage payment this late in my life. I like what I have and I feel as long as mainting the current one it’s cheaper in this manner to do preventative measures.

As time goes on, I'm learning more about what I can do or needs to be done on my truck engine whether its a mod or just maintenance upkeep. I found a couple of more mods and will post as I get to them. But 1 thing that needs my attention now is the HPOP-high press oil pump. I knew it was tied into the main oil system thinking when an oil change gets done this would affect the oil within this area too. Not so much the case. The HPOP supplies oil to the fuel injectors holding a quart in each tube on both sides of engine. The HPOP itself has its own reservoir holds a quart of oil too. When servicing the HPOP, overservicing will not happen as oil will drain down into the main engine. An oil change done requires 15qts of oil but whenever I take it to have it serviced there is no mention from shop the remaining 3qts that's in the HPOP & injector tubing doesn't get replaced. Engine oil doesn't exchange with HPOP oil hardly only a very little. Injector life is being compromised with old oil and at 200K miles I have never changed oil before in the HPOP system. Today that will be changed before it sends an astronomical bill of possibly $5G for injector replacement.

(01-20-2023, 03:02 PM)Bduck Wrote: [ -> ] Engine oil doesn't exchange with HPOP oil hardly only a very little. Injector life is being compromised with old oil and at 200K miles I have never changed oil before in the HPOP system. Today that will be changed before it sends an astronomical bill of possibly $5G for injector replacement.

How did you find a way to change the oil in your HPOP system?
Why don't shops offer the option of changing the oil in that system?

On the front of my engine is the HPOP. There
is an access service port as I point to it.

I have a pump that is operated using a drill. The small tubing
inserts into access point pushing it to the bottom of the
reservoir and draws oil out.

Warming engine naturally help oil to be extracted. This oil
definitely has been in this system for a lot of miles.

I stole the turkey baster from the kitchen and removed
the rounded lip to fit into service port. I serviced, ran engine for 10min
& extracted the oil out repeating process 3 times. I can't get the oil from injector
delivery replaced unless I service the reservoir and running motor.

Next is the fuel filter. This is the filter housing looking down
at the fuel heater mounted on bracket with 2 hex screws
holding in place. Coming up thru center is a stem that goes
up thru filter.

When removing fuel heater, the filter stem come out. Easy Peasy

On the bottom of stem is a spring with a plunger above it inside
stem.

I removed plunger & spring reinserting stem as this is
the guide for the filter installs. The spring & plungers' purpose
is to prevent engine from running when filter is not installed. With
those items removed; it eliminates fuel restriction. There will
be a filter at all times installed.
The only thing I can think of is why the shop doesn't mention this service
is potential for a future $5G for injector service. When I got my truck
out of shop from an oil change last week, they recommended a 60G service. Huh

What is a 60G service?

Do only diesel trucks have a HPOP system?

[font="Open Sans", sans-serif]What is a 60G service?[/font] I can see I should have been a little clearer with the terminology. Its a service that's offered at 60,000 miles for newer or lower mileage vehicles. I change all of my fluids with exception of oil change, I have dealer change engine oil since it requires catching 15qts which I don't care for the potential mess and disposal of. Some of the heavier maintenance I'll pay to get it done.

[font="Open Sans", sans-serif]Do only diesel trucks have a HPOP system?[/font] This is what I know that's on Ford. The HPOP-high press oil pump is what supplies engine type oil to the fuel injectors. Any other application I'm not familiar with at all.

(01-22-2023, 03:04 PM)Bduck Wrote: [ -> ][font="Open Sans", sans-serif]What is a 60G service?[/font] I can see I should have been a little clearer with the terminology. Its a service that's offered at 60,000 miles for newer or lower mileage vehicles. I change all of my fluids with exception of oil change, I have dealer change engine oil since it requires catching 15qts which I don't care for the potential mess and disposal of. Some of the heavier maintenance I'll pay to get it done.

[font="Open Sans", sans-serif]Do only diesel trucks have a HPOP system?[/font] This is what I know that's on Ford. The HPOP-high press oil pump is what supplies engine type oil to the fuel injectors. Any other application I'm not familiar with at all.

I'm

, why would they recommend a 60 k service when your truck is approaching 200k?

The reason I ask about the HPOP system is because I was curious if cars with fuel injectors use a system like that, if they do, I've never heard about needing oil for fuel injectors until I read this thread.

(01-22-2023, 08:04 PM)wiperhunter2 Wrote: [ -> ]
(01-22-2023, 03:04 PM)Bduck Wrote: [ -> ][font="Open Sans", sans-serif]What is a 60G service?[/font] I can see I should have been a little clearer with the terminology. Its a service that's offered at 60,000 miles for newer or lower mileage vehicles. I change all of my fluids with exception of oil change, I have dealer change engine oil since it requires catching 15qts which I don't care for the potential mess and disposal of. Some of the heavier maintenance I'll pay to get it done.

[font="Open Sans", sans-serif]Do only diesel trucks have a HPOP system?[/font] This is what I know that's on Ford. The HPOP-high press oil pump is what supplies engine type oil to the fuel injectors. Any other application I'm not familiar with at all.

I'm , why would they recommend a 60 k service when your truck is approaching 200k? I remembered I still have all of the owner's manuals that came with the truck. This is what I found for 60K service. Since I'm at 200K what is there to offer other than recycling thru the maintenance program. These diesels are considered million-mile engines, you take care of them they will give you long lasting service. I don't want a new $75,000 truck. The dealers don't expect the consumer to keep vehicles much past 100-150K.

The reason I ask about the HPOP system is because I was curious if cars with fuel injectors use a system like that, if they do, I've never heard about needing oil for fuel injectors until I read this thread. Mine is supposed to be lubricated thru the main oil system but doesn't work as well and plus an HPOP system is involved ensures oil delivery, its giving me the thought it works as mechanical electrically operated. I don't have the answer for other make and model vehicles including other Ford family vehicles. I do know this; I want longevity to continue with the truck, so I'll keep digging and keep up preventative maintenance.