Fishing Forum

I have the braided stainless cable works fine but hums alot more than I like, what lb test braided line is the best and is there a better brand. And pros or cons of using braid.

(08-21-2024, 08:31 PM)icejunkie Wrote: [ -> ]I have the braided stainless cable works fine but hums alot more than I like, what lb test braided line is the best and is there a better brand. And pros or cons of using braid.

Not really sure what you mean, are you thinking about replacing your DR cable with braid? If so, I bought a DR with braid on it instead of cable and I believe it had 150 lb test, maybe Dubob can give you an exact brand name, he is the one I bought the DR from.

(08-21-2024, 10:23 PM)wiperhunter2 Wrote: [ -> ]
(08-21-2024, 08:31 PM)icejunkie Wrote: [ -> ]I have the braided stainless cable works fine but hums alot more than I like, what lb test braided line is the best and is there a better brand. And pros or cons of using braid.

Not really sure what you mean, are you thinking about replacing your DR cable with braid? If so, I bought a DR with braid on it instead of cable and I believe it had 150 lb test, maybe Dubob can give you an exact brand name, he is the one I bought the DR from.

If the DR is an electric Cannon, it needs to have a metal cable to work the auto stop on retrieve and to present the proper Positive Ion Control. If the cable is metal, it is always going to hum at some speed based on speed & DR weight. Braided non-metal cable will eliminate the hum but you loose the two features I mentioned above. If the DR is some other brand, you might not lose anything but the hum if you change over to braid cloth line. Here is a link that discusses both: Downrigger line debate - Braid vs. Cable - SunCruiser (suncruisermedia.com)

There was a time I was considering braid as an option but quickly concluded it would not be that good of an option for me, so steel cable is my preferred option. The below surface terrain in many of our lakes is a constant reminder of what made my mind up. Downrigger set at 60' in a 120' depth can rapidly have the weight dragging at 40'. I have lost my share of weights from snagging the bottom, some were recoverable and not so lucky with others. Bob posted up an excellent article of the pros & cons which I never would think of changing pulleys from plastic to aluminum if using braid. Not that I would change at all, this further reinforces my thought to stay with steel cable. Steel cable fraying happens which that section should be cut & removed. Kinking is also another result of cut & remove. I will NOT splice cable together as that is a weak point using crimps. Each of my 4 DR's have 200' which I can cut small sections away if needed not to exceed maybe 120' and I mostly troll 50-60' depth, but that's not a good leeway in case of a bottom hangup. I built up my tolerance of singing wire.

I use this type of custom SS stick weights a lot when
trolling. Never had an issue when they would drag bottom
unlike fish style, cannon ball or pancake weights. These are
great for not snagging.

(08-22-2024, 01:21 PM)Bduck Wrote: [ -> ]There was a time I was considering braid as an option but quickly concluded it would not be that good of an option for me, so steel cable is my preferred option. The below surface terrain in many of our lakes is a constant reminder of what made my mind up. Downrigger set at 60' in a 120' depth can rapidly have the weight dragging at 40'. I have lost my share of weights from snagging the bottom, some were recoverable and not so lucky with others. Bob posted up an excellent article of the pros & cons which I never would think of changing pulleys from plastic to aluminum if using braid. Not that I would change at all, this further reinforces my thought to stay with steel cable. Steel cable fraying happens which that section should be cut & removed. Kinking is also another result of cut & remove. I will NOT splice cable together as that is a weak point using crimps. Each of my 4 DR's have 200' which I can cut small sections away if needed not to exceed maybe 120' and I mostly troll 50-60' depth, but that's not a good leeway in case of a bottom hangup. I built up my tolerance of singing wire.

I use this type of custom SS stick weights a lot when
trolling. Never had an issue when they would drag bottom
unlike fish style, cannon ball or pancake weights. These are
great for not snagging.

Who makes your SS stick weights or where do you buy them?

Those stick weights look like they work like a bottom bouncer!! A ss weight would seem pretty expensive! It Would be pretty easy to take a piece of pipe, split it down the middle kength wise, make an insert from some 1/8" barstock, and mold a weight out of lead ( or wheel weights). Alot cheaper than SS

(08-23-2024, 03:00 AM)FishfulThinkin Wrote: [ -> ]
(08-22-2024, 01:21 PM)Bduck Wrote: [ -> ]There was a time I was considering braid as an option but quickly concluded it would not be that good of an option for me, so steel cable is my preferred option. The below surface terrain in many of our lakes is a constant reminder of what made my mind up. Downrigger set at 60' in a 120' depth can rapidly have the weight dragging at 40'. I have lost my share of weights from snagging the bottom, some were recoverable and not so lucky with others. Bob posted up an excellent article of the pros & cons which I never would think of changing pulleys from plastic to aluminum if using braid. Not that I would change at all, this further reinforces my thought to stay with steel cable. Steel cable fraying happens which that section should be cut & removed. Kinking is also another result of cut & remove. I will NOT splice cable together as that is a weak point using crimps. Each of my 4 DR's have 200' which I can cut small sections away if needed not to exceed maybe 120' and I mostly troll 50-60' depth, but that's not a good leeway in case of a bottom hangup. I built up my tolerance of singing wire.

I use this type of custom SS stick weights a lot when
trolling. Never had an issue when they would drag bottom
unlike fish style, cannon ball or pancake weights. These are
great for not snagging.

Who makes your SS stick weights or where do you buy them?

These weights were made by a former retired machinist who was a member of a couple other fishing forums. He sold all of the ones he had. I grabbed up these 4 which are 8lb each. At the time, he also had heavier weight class for sale. I've had these for 10yrs+, since he has dropped off of the radar from the forums & doesn't respond anymore to inquiries. Also, he doesn't make the weights anymore.
As far as bottom bouncing, these are very good for stirring the bottom attracting lake trout. I've seen guys make them from rebar welded together, crude but effective. Another method in making your own is using galvanize pipe filled with lead. My SS weights are filled with lead too. There is also some heavy steel dowel one should be able to find available.
If memory serves me, not too far in the past Dubob showed an interest in stick weights also. Maybe he will chime in with his 2cents.

I've been using these since 2020 with great success. I did loose one to the Gorge - my bad. The price is very reasonable, and they also make some great kokanee lures & dodgers. We've had great success on kokanee and trout using their Tomahawk lures. Give them a call. Good company to work with and they do fish the Gorge on occasion.

Stainless Steel Downrigger Stick Weight (bottomlinetackle.com)

icejunkie

wiperhunter2

dubob

Bduck

FishfulThinkin

Therapist

Bduck

dubob