Fishing Forum

Went out to Blue Lake to give the old tube and fishfinder mount a test drive. Works great! Mounting on a pvc T doesn't create any drag at all, so that worked out. I need to raise the left side of the mount a bit because the screen tilts to the left. No big deal just want it nice and level (perfect).

No fish arches though just straight lines. I read in the manual to get an arch you need to be moving, so thats probably why. One thing that bugged me about the finder is that I had an almost solid line near the surface on the screen. Kind of looks like a second bottom echo. Any one know what the problem could be and how do I get rid of it? I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the disturbance caused by my flippers churning up the water.

The fishing was great as usual and managed to catch some large gills too thanks to TD's world famous bait bugs. Largest one was an even 10", just an inch and a half shy of state record and 1 1/4" away from catch and release state record. I was bummed when I measured him, was sure he was a foot long, lol.



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[cool][blue][size 1]Hey, Hustler, that's a nice bluegill...even if it ain't a state record. I've enjoyed many a bout with fish smaller than that and figured I got my money's worth.[/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]On the output from your sonar, you either have the settings wrong or you have a defective unit. I suggest you hook it up to your battery and click on the menu until you get demo mode. Work through the options and you will see that you can set the display for fish icons, arches or ???. You can also set the scroll speed, cone angle (up to 60 degrees), etc.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]If you let the sensitivity stay in the middle range, you are less likely to get false readings and "echo", which is a second signal from the bottom.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]The only thing that will produce a line near the surface, otherwise, might be a net or something else that dangles into the signal below the transducer.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Spend some time getting familiar with the different options for settings and then work through them the next trip out. It is really not that complicated, but just as with electronics, cars and wives, a small thing can quickly become a biggie.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]I seem to recall that you did some splicing on the cable too. It is possible there is some current interruption (short). Do you get a temp reading at all?[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]By the way, I always fish with my settings showing the little fishy icons. They are easier to read in bright sunlight than trying to interpret arches. I also set the scroll speed down to slow. Maybe you can move faster than me in your tube, but I have never found the need for speed on my sonar screen.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]It is amazing all of the different settings and options there are in a relatively inexpensive unit like the Cuda 168. As you will read in the manual, you access and set these options by first pressing the menu button. Each press brings up a different option. When you get the one you want, then you make the adjustments...up or down...by pushing the appropriate arrows. It is just like the settings on a computer or monitor...which is what your sonar is.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Again, get your system hooked up on your bench and get into the demo mode, with your manual at hand. You can't hurt it by running it out of water. And, it is better to play with it during non-fishing time than when there's fishing to be done.[/size][/#0000ff]
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Thanks TD. I didn't do any splicing and had the unit set on the default settings the whole time. The scroll speed was at it's highest, is it possible that scroll speed could cause the problem? I did try the fish icon mode and it would clear up sometimes. Then there where other times that the false signal would disapear. I didn't try lowering sensetivity since it was set on auto also. I think it was at around 80%. I'll try adjusting those settings next time and see if that makes a difference. I thought that by leaving it on auto the unit would compensate for these problems. Oh well, guess I was wrong. The temperature gauge worked fine. Adjusting the cone angle could have something to do with it? Not sure when I will get a chance to try it and make the adjustments but wil post my results when I do.
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[cool][blue][size 1]The more I think about it the more I suspect that a bit of tweaking on the sensitivity and scroll speed should solve the problem. The default settings are probably established with the assumption that the average unit is going to be installed on a boat, and that the boat is going to be fishing deep water or going at some speed beyond what a pair of fins can do. Paddling around on Blue Lake is different than hunting macks at the Gorge.[/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]As I recall, it took me a bit more foolin' around with the settings on the Cuda to get it right than some of the simpler earlier models.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]What I try to suggest to anyone getting a system for floatation fishing is to consider that they will be fishing shallow water (under 25 feet) most of the time. Therefore, the system should operate well at those depths. And, as with the Cuda, there should be adjustability on the scroll speed. A high speed is useful when doing a "search mission" in a boat, but is pretty much useless on a tube. So is a water speed indicator.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]In the final analysis, as I have stated often before, the real value of a good sonar is more in being able to determine depth, bottom structure and composition...grey line. Unless you fish straight down, 100% of the time, the fish location is important only in helping you determine a fish holding area and at what depth the fish are cruising or holding. Of course, when you find a school of fish holding tight to a well defined bit of structure, you can use the sonar to keep you positioned over them for a vertical presentation.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]The way the big boys use sonar is to find fishy structure and then they toss out marker buoys for visual reference...not right on top of the fish. Then they back off and position the boat (or tube) to allow easy and efficient casts to the fish.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]If you don't have marker buoys, or a GPS system, you need to be good at triangulation...lining up objects on the shoreline in two different directions. I used to have my favorite spots on Pineview that I could find quickly, and in the days before I had sonar on my craft, I became pretty good at using the non technical methods of locating my honey holes.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]My gameplan is usually to fish a range of different depths and techniques, until I find the pattern. Then, I concentrate on keeping myself in the right depth range to maximize my efficiency. You can't catch them where they ain't. But, if you are fishing consistently in the right depths, over the right kind of bottom, you increase your odds. In truth, I catch a lot of fish that I never saw on my screen at all, but I was fishing in the right zone and intercepted the fish in the right place.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Good luck on fine-tuning your Cuda. Better luck on your next trip anyway.[/size][/#0000ff]
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Hey TD,

I'm very knowledgeable in using shorline landmarks to triangulate my position on the water. Before I got my first GPS in NY we used to locate our honeyholes this way on the Long Island Sound. Had the help of marker bouys most of the time since they are everywhere in the briny.

I got an E-Trex Garmin GPS that I haven't used yet so I'm fine there. At least smoking is good for something other than slow suicide . Got it through the Marlboro Miles catalog. I was planning on marking a few spots at Pineview last year while the water was at a record low. Lots of good structure there but got too lazy and never did . I'm going to have to go by memory then. Alot of good that will do, lol.

You think leaving the fish symbols on whould be a better option? Actually, if you don't mind taking a peek at your settings and letting me know where thier at I could try those and hopefully save a ton of time.

As far as the Blue gill go, I caught a few that where about 9" and the funny thing I noticed is that some are rounder than others, as far as top to bottom while length is the same. I guess they grow fat and round before they grow in length, LOL.
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[cool][blue][size 1]It will probably be a couple of weeks before I get on the water with the Cuda again. I am going to make a fast trip to the Sea of Cortez next weekend, without the sonar. Don't need it. The water is shallow over the reefs and crystal clear. [/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]I just went out to the garage and hooked up my Cuda and checked the settings. Here's how it reads in a non-fishing situation. I think I have it set that way for fishing too: Some of the settings are likely default settings. The main ones to check are sensitivity, Scroll Speed and Fish ID.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Display Contrast - 47%, Noise Reject - Low, Deep and Shallow Alarms - both Off, Fish Alarm Off, Fish ID - On (Not on "Track"), Scroll Speed 50%, Grey Line- 72%, Sens. - Max, Sens - Auto, Zoom - Off, Range Zoom - Auto.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]On the growth of the bluegills, I think the pattern is the opposite. My observation is that they grow to their ultimate length, and then turn porky. But, it might also be like humans. Some might be more prone to chunk up. I seem to have that tendency my own self. [/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Attaching a pic of a fat pair I got at Pelican in "the good old days". I don't remember the measurements, and there is not much in the pic for reference, but they each weighed just under two pounds. Used to have days over there after about the middle of May when you could release a couple hundred fatties a day, if you could hold up. Used flies or small plastics...black or purple best.[/size][/#0000ff]
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Checked my settings, they are identical to yours except for scroll speed and contrast. Maybe the scroll speed is the culprit, I'll try that next time out as well as tweaking the sensetivity maybe that will help. Thanks again TD.
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My cuda 128 does that as well (line just below the surface). It would get more pronounced if I had it targetted in from 0-10'. I need to play with it more. The line disappeared when I had the fish symbols on. It also freaked out on me one day when I didn't have the transducer plugged in correctly on the back of the unit. I fixed that and all was well again.

Nice report and killer bluegill!
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That may be it too, maybe I didn't have it plugged in all the way. Anything is possible. I lubed it up with a little reel grease so it can be removed easily. I'll check that out necxt time.
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Thats a good idea to grease it up a bit. I'm always afraid I'll snap a pin or something plugging it in. All I know is, I need to use it more often than I have been. Good luck!

nate
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[cool][blue][size 1]Hey Al, the lube is one of those dual edged swords. It makes it easier to get the plug into the socket, but it also increases the incidence of having the plug getting dislodged while on the water. Seems like something is always bumping the wires and all of a sudden your screen goes blank. Also tends to make it so that you have to plug it in every time you go fishing.[/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]I have toyed with the idea of taping, or otherwise securing the connection to keep it in and tight. It is a pain to try to replug it while you are out on the water and there's fishing to be done. And, those [url "mailto:%$#@$$"]%$#@$$[/url] little pins always seem to not quite fit right when you are in a hurry. I broke one off once and invented some new words.[/size][/#0000ff]
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Sounds like a good way to expand on the English language. Maybe some of your new words will make it to the next addition of the Webster Dictionary [crazy]
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