Fishing Forum

Hey guys,

I asked for and received some very nice help in earlier posts concerning my Sears Gamefisher 5hp motor. I though (and maybe did) have a problem with the float sticking. I took the bottom bowl portion of the carburator off and gave it a throurough cleaning. It really didn't need it however as it was immaculate. The float no longer sticks and I took the boat out today. I had mixed results and it appears I'm going to need further help if anyone has any suggestions... I'm going to detail my problems as throuroughly as possible and then hopefully someone will have some advice for me.

The motor does not start easily, however I can always get it to start. Once started it will idle in a pretty rough fashion... changing the choke positions helps, but sometimes it idles better on the half choke position than in the no choke positions, but not always. The motor will sputter and die for no reason at any speed, but it seems to run very nicely at it's lowest speed. Though still a bit rough. When I run it at top speed it will go for a few minutes then die. The amount of time changes and I don't think it's a heat issue as I checked the engine under the cowling and it appears to be normal(not overheating). The impeller has been checked and it does work as well. The frustrating thing is when it's wide open it will sometimes hit the "sweet spot" and really show me what it can do. When this happens it is the perfect motor for my little 12ft semi v-hull boat. I can run it just under wide open for a much longer time and towards the end of the day it ran for 20 minutes straight in that position.

No matter what, the engine alternates between rough and nice at any speed. Also after it dies after running at full speed it makes a whirring noise for a few seconds afterwards.

I had mentioned before the motor is 15 - 20 years old, but had less than 5hrs on it when my buddy gave it to me. The gaskets I took out of the carburater were basically brand new, and I haven't changed the plug because it looked fine as well.

I'd really like to get this engine running nice, but am at a loss as what to do. I don't want to take it to get repaired because if I'm gonna do that I'd just as soon buy a brand new engine.

I've tried three mixes of gasoline 32:1 40:1 and 50:1(suggested ratio on cowling). This really didn't seem to make much of a difference. I've also played with the idle screw and pretty much have it at the best setting I could determine.

If you have any advice, please feel free to post or email me. I was able to use my trolling motor today, but Lake Mead is much too large for me to rely on it. Also all that restarting of the motor is killiing me as I have a bad back and tendonitis in my shoulder. Not to mention the blisters.

I appreciate your time in this matter.

Mark

ps. I've done quite a bit of auto work in the past, and I've been trying to get a manual for the engine off of ebay, but the bottom line is I basically have no small engine experience and am at a loss as what to do.
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I have the exact same problem with an old johnson and murcury moters I have, I have yet to remidy the problem,

I am sure the problem is in the jet valves.

I need to go down and pick up from the auto shop some valve files. (teeny tiny wire hone) with this I need to run it though the jet pin hole. to do this you need to take the valve screws all the way out. find the smallest soft wire circle brush to run in there and clean the race of the jet valve and the wire hone you will need to start with the smallest probeing in gently in and out untill it feels smooth then move to the next larger one.

to gage how big the biggest wire hone needed simply pull out the valve screw and measure the diamiter of the ring imprint on the pin with your callipers.

I cleaned my motors in this area and it did make a big differance in how it ran but I need to do a through job as I mentioned above.

you may want to even throw in a little "gunk" fuel additive in the mix to disolve any residue in the carb. just because it looks dry and clear dosnt mean there isnt a build up of varnish in your fuel port valves.

you may even find it benificial if you pull the carb right off the motor and set it in a bowl of "gunk" compleatly submerged for a day. (with gaskets and any rings removed) blow out with air hose compleatly dried and replace back on the motor.

sounds like a lot of work, it is and it isnt. it is just a matter of getting my self motivated to doing the job.

there is only other one other thing that can cause this that I am aware of and that is the water pump (if water cooled) but you mentioned that the motor is not over heating so that is most likely not your problem. but do make sure that you have pleanty of gear lube in the lower end.
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Hey Dave,

I just wanted to thank you for the reply and thourough instructions. I sorta felt it was a clogged jet myself, but I'm a rookie at outboards so I hadn't made a firm decision. I also decided to order the manual from Sears for the motor, so I'm gonna wait until it get's here, but then I'm gonna go through the entire motor, especially the carburator, and get her running right. I truly believe the motor is in good condition, it just needs some TLC.

I can sometimes be hesitant when it comes to doing projects that are new to me...ie working on outboards. But when a person such as yourself takes the time to help it really gives me the confidence to go for it.

Thanks again,
Mark

ps. I'm not ruling out the gear lube in the lower end as a possible cause either. I've asked for and received specific instructions on how to change it in a normal outboard, but the setup on my gamefisher seems to reveresed as far as where the vent and fill hole are normally located so I've not changed it yet. It was the deciding factor in ordering the manual as I'm sure it's covered in the manual. I also called several places in frustration to pay to get it fixed and 3 different businesses told me they refused to work on Gamefishers, so maintenance will be up to me anyhow.
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there is another trick you can do on the motor end and that is to pull the plugs and give them a quick shot of wd-40 and liquid rench. this will help desolve any old varnish in the piston shaft. to see if it needs it, pull the plugs and look at the piston. if it is not clean then it probably needs a clensing.

I add the two additives then crank slowly a few times with the plug removed then ad a shot of mixed gass in to the plug hole replace the plug and fire it up. this will help to burn and or pump the old carbon and varnish out the exaust port.

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the gear lube thing,

with the motor in an upright position, (handing on the boat is just fine). pull both plugs allow the lube to drain and then fill from the bottom until it comes out the top. replace the bottom plug then the top plug.
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Thanks for the help,

In the end I think it was the gear oil in the lower end. I gave the carb a thourough cleaning, but I wasn't sure how to change the oil so I bought and waited on a manual to make sure I did it correctly. There was very little oil in the lower unit and I think that was the major problem. Once I changed(filled) the gear oil it was running pretty nicely here at home with the ear muff's on and I'll be testing it on Mead soon. Thanks for all the help Dave...

Mark
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Glad to be of some aid.

special note, you will want to check the level before every trip if you found that the level was low.

It could have been that the lub became thin and seeped out but you realy dont want to take any chances. it may be nessary to top it off every trip untill the seets reseal. You may even want to check the condition on the two screw plugs to see if there are seets or "O" rings incase they may need replacing. (most of the ones I have seen do not all have seets or "O" rings, but some do)

best of luck on the water, and be sure to let us know how she runs.... dont forget to drop a line in back of the boat while testing the motor, I've caught many a fish this way[url "javascript: addTag('')"][][/url]
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For one thing, it's not the carb you're looking for info on, it's the entire motor. (granted it's all stock equipment on the motor) If you locate an owners manual for your year, make, and model outboard, it should have all the info you need. Next, you need to consider what part of the carb the fuel is comming from. Carberators are pretty basic, it doesn't matter if it's on a boat, ATV, or what ever. They all work the same way. Check your seals on the carb for one. If they are torn or worn, change them. Check all the screws and make shure they're tight. And so on and so Forth. Next, once you've done all the maintenence, re-install it back on the motor and tune it. Never tune a Carb starting from Lean. Always tune from a RICH setting. This will keep you from damageging your motor, especially if it's a 2 stroke. If you're able to find the repair manual for your particular motor, it SHOULD explain how to adjust the carb. Other wise, do this. Screw in both your air and gas screws in all the way. Once in all the way, unscrew each one 2 and 1/2 turns. That's a pretty general setting, it doesn't matter what you're going with. Now, just tune it from there. If it's a two stroke, you WANT blue smoke comming out of the motor, if you don't have blue smoke, you're running too rich and will destroy your motor. Make shure you put a couple extra ounces of oil in your gas mixture too if you have an older 2 stroke motor. Too little oil in the gas is devistating to a 2 stroke, a little too much will just make it smoke a little more and you won't get quite as much power out of the motor, however, it will make your motor last a whole lot longer considering how antique it is, it just give it more lubrication which is a good thing. Well, I hope I was of some help.
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CORRECTION! to my last post!

If you don't have BLUE SMOKE you're running LEAN! NOT Rich. A tad rich is a good thing.
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If you have not been able to find the info your self, I will need just a little more info than just "1986" 5 horse.

drop a make and modle number on us.... (not serial number) with out it we cant do any thing for you and you will have to take it to some one who can identify the engine for you....

Question, is this a four stroke engine?

Question, is the gas on a sepreate tank and is it hose fed?

There is no doubt that you will need a carb kit for this... leaking gass is a give away that you probably have a sitcking falve or float.
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the old johnson =

I had gotten it running then the recoil snapped so I bought new parts and was going to redo it and before I got to doing it Lonehunter said he would take it off my hands...

I provided with the engine a new carb kit that contained new seals and float and float pin. along with a new recoil.

pretty basic...

he put all the new parts on it...

from what I hear it is running good now.
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Hello, I am new to this site and was wondering if someone could help me with some information on my Gamefisher 5. I bought it new in 1996. I would like to sell it. It was used maybe 6 times in the last 8 years. It still looks new. I was wondering what it may be worth? Also this probably sounds dumb, but the "5" does stand for 5 HP - right? It only weighs about 36 lbs.
Thanks, Mike.
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If you had a digital camera I could tell you for sure.

being I cant see it, I will asume that the orange tube has hardened and cracked. I think it should have been soft and clear.

most hard wear stores carry that type of tubing, so dose most boat repair shops. its a common problem. also a cheep fix. less than a bucks worth of hose will do the job and if you keep the left over hose in a cool and dark place you will have a life time supply of that particular part.

be sure to talk to the old timer in the hardwear store and tell him you are replacing a peice of clear borken gass line...

If that dosnt sound right to you, find a way of providing us with a picture. uploading photos is easy if you sign up as a member, it is free... just follow the new user registration link at the bottom of this post.

You may also need a gasket kit or material to replace the gaskets on your carb if you have broken any gasket...

permatex works, but it is a hastle, and if it gets in to the carb, then you have a major carb cleaning job to do and if you dont like spending hours of tinkering cleaning ports and valves you may want to avoid permatex all together...
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Hi everyone . yes I have an old 5hp gamefisher with the same problem . runs and dies and speeds up by itself .it may be possessed ? no one will work on these not even sears. sears doesn't have some parts i need .i have also heard that the only difference from a 9hp to 15 is the carb . is there a way of upgrading this 5hp. it has been a project motor i have had for a while .I figure my running problem was carb related i just didn't want to take anything apart without new gaskets .sears doesn't sell a carb gasket set .
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this might help the model # 217-586613 . this looks like a glorified lawnmower engine . the serial 68005078 is there a way of figuring out the year from that ?
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most 5 hp gamefishers were made by Eska,here is a site that may help you http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/
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mine has a tecumseh engine on it . I tried the sears # on their site with no luck so far.I am still looking for another # somewhere on the motor. I have an email in to their parts people with no response yet.maybe just pull off whole motor and bolt new one on to outdrive ? I hope ...if anyone has done this let me know. it has to be possible somehow.here is pic of motor head
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[url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/index.php?section=169"][/url]
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[/url]
PARTS BOOKS [size 4]Tanaka Outboard Motor Parts Books (Scroll Down Page)[/size][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]Our downloadable parts books contain illustrated drawings, part numbers, and descriptions so you can quickly identify the Tanaka outboard motor, Sears Gamefisher outboard motor, or Aquabug outboard motor part you need. To order, [/size][/font][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]call 1-888-482-6252. [/size][/font][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]Make sure to download a free copy of [/size][/font][url "http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0000ff][size 2]Adobe Acrobat Reader[/size][/#0000ff][/font][/url][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2] to view the owner's manual. To save an owner's manual to disk either use the Save function in Acrobat Reader 4.0 and up, or Right-Click on the link and choose Save Target As. To view a book, click on the link. If you are having trouble downloading the PDFs click [/size][/font][url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/index.php?section=74"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0000ff][size 2]HERE[/size][/#0000ff][/font][/url][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]. [/size][/font][url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/ariensxref.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0000ff][size 2]Ariens Model Cross Reference Chart[/size][/#0000ff][/font][/url][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]


[font "Arial"][#000000][size 2][#000000][size 4]The History of Tanaka Outboard Motors
[/size][/#000000][font "Arial"]Tanaka air cooled 2-stroke outboard motors were manufactured by Tanaka Kogyo Ltd. Co. in Japan from the mid-1970’s until 2002. They were produced under 3 different brand names – Tanaka, Sears Gamefisher and Aquabug. There were different colors and labeling configurations but within each horsepower rating (1.2HP, 1.75HP, 3HP and 5.5HP) the motors were identical except for the shroud / decals.


[font "Avenir 65 Medium"][size 2][#ff0000]Note – Tanaka did not make the 5HP (and larger) Gamefisher outboard motors for Sears. The model number for the outboard begins with a 3 digit prefix, which indicates the manufacturer of the motor;
[/#ff0000][/size][/font][font "Avenir 65 Medium"][size 2][#ff0000]298.xxxxxx = Tanaka
[/#ff0000][/size][/font][font "Avenir 65 Medium"][size 2][#ff0000]217.xxxxxx = Eska
[/#ff0000][/size][/font][font "Avenir 65 Medium"][size 2][#ff0000]225.xxxxxx = Mercury
[/#ff0000][/size][/font][font "Avenir 65 Medium"][size 2][#ff0000]488.xxxxxx = Johnson

[/#ff0000][/size][/font][font "Avenir 65 Medium"][size 2][#ff0000]In any event you can go to Sears.com ([/#ff0000][url "http://www3.sears.com/"][#ff0000]http://www3.sears.com/[/#ff0000][/url][#ff0000]) enter your model number and obtain the price and availability of the needed parts.
[/#ff0000][/size][/font]
[font "Arial"]1.2 HP Motor
[font "Arial"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"]The motor is known as the Tanaka TOB-12B, TOB-120, or Sears 58513 / 58613, or the Aquabug AOB-120. This little motor weighed in at 14 pounds soaking wet. It has a 22cc air cooled engine with a direct drive (no centrifugal clutch) and a 2 blade propeller. This motor offers excellent portability and is perfect for people with canoes or small dingys.[/font]

[/font]1.75 HP Motor
[/font][font "Arial"]The 1.75HP motor was sold as the Tanaka TOB-175, or Sears 58507 / 58518 or Aquabug AOB-175[#000080] [/#000080]and the Eska14089C. The 1.75HP motor weighed 18 pounds and was offered with and without a clutch. The Tanaka TOB-175 came with a centrifugal 2-stage clutch. Sears offered the 1.75HP motor with and without a clutch (58507 without). [/font][font "Tahoma"][#0000ff][/#0000ff][/font]
[font "Arial"][#000080][/#000080][/font][font "Arial"]2.5 HP Motor
[/font][font "Arial"]The predecessor to the TOB-300 was the TOB-25 and the Superbug. These motors had most of the same components as the TOB-300 and generated 3HP (at the prop).[/font]
[font "Arial"]3 HP Motor
[/font][font "Arial"]The most popular of the motors was the 3HP. This motor was sold as the Tanaka TOB-300, Sears 58519 / 58619 and the Aquabug AOB-300. Weighing in at 24 pounds this motor has the guts to mover fairly large boats. Also with its dual stage centrifugal clutch it will “troll” at surprisingly slow speeds while maintaining a healthy engine RPM, thus reducing fouled spark plugs and engine overheating. [/font]
[font "Arial"]5.5HP Motor
[/font][font "Arial"]The 5.5HP motor was made in a short and long shaft version. This motor was sold as the Tanaka TOB-550 / TOB-550L and the Aquabug AOB-550 / AOB-550L. The long shaft version was equipped with a lighting generator capable of generating enough electricity to power small running lights.[/font][font "Tahoma"][#0000ff] [/#0000ff][/font][font "Arial"]
[size 4]
Frequently Asked Questions about Tanaka Outboard Motors[/size]

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Q. Are Tanaka Outboard Motors still being made?
A. No, they were discontinued due to EPA emissions regulations.

Q. Do you have any motors in stock? Do you know where I can find one?
A. We are completely out of stock. Most of our customers find them at garage sales, or by searching the internet. We do occasionally see them on [#000000]Ebay.[/#000000]

Q. I’m not sure what outboard motor I have and I can no longer read the decals. How can I be sure which model I have?
A. 1.2 HP – Has 2 bladed propeller.
1.75 HP – Has 3 bladed propeller with gas cap in front of the starter.
3.0 HP – Has 3 bladed propeller with gas cap behind the starter.
5.5 HP – Has an external fuel tank.

Q. Can I get a carburetor rebuild kit for my motor?
A. We have [#000000]carburetor rebuild kits[/#000000] for the 3HP motors. At this time we only have carb kits for the TOB-300.
[#0000ff]
[/#0000ff]Q. Can I buy a fuel bowl for my 3HP motor?
A. No we only sell the petcock assembly #592.10201.900.

Q. Can I buy outboard parts locally?
A. Feel free to check with your [#000000]local Tanaka dealer[/#000000]. If they don’t have stock or can’t get the parts for you email [url "mailto:custsvc@nikko-tanaka-usa.com"][#0000ff]custsvc@nikko-tanaka-usa.com[/#0000ff][/url] or call 1-888-482-6252 to order parts directly.

Q. Were the Cruise n Carry motors made by Tanaka? If so can I order parts from Tanaka?
A. Cruise n Carry motors were made by HMC / Green Machine (Hawaiian Motor Corp). Tanaka does not have parts for these motors, and we do not know where to get them.

Q. What gas / oil mix do I need to use for my outboard?
A. 50:1 gas / oil. Be sure and use oil that is designed for air cooled motors (BTW - [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/index.php?section=154"][#0000ff]Tanaka oil[/#0000ff][/url] works great!!) not water cooled motors. Owner's manual says 25:1. This is incorrect for today's gas and oil formulas?

Q. Do you have manuals for the outboards?
A. Yes, we have parts manuals, service manuals and owner’s manuals [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/index.php?section=108"][#0000ff]here[/#0000ff][/url].

Q. Do you have parts for the Bumblebee outboard motor?
A. This motor was produced when Tanaka and Ariens were associated. The parts for this motor are no longer available. [/font][font "Arial"][/font][/size][/#000000][/font][/size][/font]
[size 2]Tanaka Outboard Engines / Outboard Motors[/size]
[url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-12Bdpl.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-12B[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]
1.2 h.p. Tanaka outboard engine

[/size][/font][url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-120dpl.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-120[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]
1.2 h.p. Tanaka outboard engine

[/size][/font][url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-175dpl.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-175[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]
1.75 h.p. Tanaka outboard engine

[/size][/font][url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-25dpl.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-25[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]
2.5 h.p. Tanaka outboard engine

[url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-300dpl.pdf"][#0099ff]TOB-300[/#0099ff][/url]
3.0 h.p. Tanaka outboard engine[/size][/font][size 1]
[/size]
[url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-550dpl.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-550[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]
5.5 h.p. Tanaka outboard engine[/size][/font][size 3][size 2]Sears Gamefisher Outboard Motors (Made by Tanaka)[/size][/size]
[font "Arial"][#000000][size 2]Sears Gamefisher 58513 & 58613
Use [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-120dpl.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-120[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url]

Sears Gamefisher 58507
Use [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-175dpl.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-175[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url] Tanaka outboard engine[font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]
[/size][/font][/size][/#000000][/font]
[font "Arial"][#000000][size 2]Sears Gamefisher 58519 & 58619
Use [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-300dpl.pdf"][#0099ff]TOB-300[/#0099ff][/url] Tanaka outboard engine

[font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"]
Jason M. (Dayton, OH), submitted this comment on the die-hard quality of his TOB-300 outboard motor ...

"I have a Tanaka 3hp outboard motor that I have had for more than ten years. It is running as strong today as it did when it was new. Of all of the small outboards I have owned this is the smoothest running and most reliable. I have used it in the harshest weather conditions in Alaska and it always came on strong. Thumbs up to Tanaka! Too bad they are no longer manufacturing this motor."
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[size 2]Aquabug Outboard Motors (Made by Tanaka)[/size]
[font "Arial"][#000000][size 2]AOB-120 1.2 HP
Use [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-120dpl.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-120[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url] Tanaka outboard engine
[/size][/#000000][/font]
[font "Arial"][#000000][size 2]AOB-175 1.75 HP
Use [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-175dpl.pdf"][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-175[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url] Tanaka outboard engine[font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]
[/size][/font][/size][/#000000][/font]
[font "Arial"][#000000][size 2]Superbug 250
Use [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-25dpl.pdf"][b][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-25[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url] Tanaka outboard engine[font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][size 2]
[/size][/font][/size][/#000000][/font][/b]
[font "Arial"][#000000][size 2]AOB-300 3 HP
Use [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-300dpl.pdf"][#0099ff]TOB-300[/#0099ff][/url] Tanaka outboard engine
[/size][/#000000][/font]
[font "Arial"][#000000][size 2]AOB-550 5.5 HP
Use [url "http://www.tanaka-usa.com/pdf/dpl/outboards/TOB-550dpl.pdf"][b][font "arial,helvetica,sans-serif"][#0099ff][size 2]TOB-550[/size][/#0099ff][/font][/url] Tanaka outboard engine[/size][/#000000][/font][/b]
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[url "http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ebrixent/index.htm"][/url]

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Sears Model ID [url "http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ebrixent/Model21758510-58882.htm"]
Model 217.58510 - 58882[/url]
[url "http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ebrixent/Model21758890-59900.htm"]
Model 217.58890 - 59900[/url]
[url "http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ebrixent/Model217585870-586351.htm"]
Model 217.585870 - 586351[/url]
[url "http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ebrixent/Model21759980-585861.htm"]
Model 217.59980 - 585861[/url]
[indent]All Sears Outboards with model numbers 217.586000 and above where built by Eska Outboard in 1985 - 1986. Eska closed and stopped production in 1986.
Most of those motors used a 50:1 Oil Mix. Most used Plugs J-12-Y with a gap of .030
SEARS MOTORS with Model Numbers other than 217.???????? where built by:
225.?????? Chrysler Outboard
574..????? McCullock Outboard
Parts for McCullock Outboard are No Longer Available
Some Parts for Chrysler are avalible on special order only.[/indent]

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[url "http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ebrixent/index.htm"][/url] [url "http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ebrixent/orderfrm.htm"][/url]

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Eska 5HP I picked up one for $40 ran good too. i have been having the same problem as other owners of these great motors no true instructions on how they work and how to keep them running. well after searching and talking to people about these motor and others heres the news. I like my Eska Golden Jet 500 . starts up good too and power is better than walking. There is a shop in the UP of Michigan that has most parts for Eskas. The owned also has web too. My motor would cut out on the water in ez turns, and little waves only when i was on high speed it would just bog down. Just like what ??? The lawn mower........ as it turns out the motor was too deep in the water. I call the man up north. He tells me that the holes on the side you know the 5 or 6 on the out drive for exhaust. well those are for slow speeds only .Exhaust down by the prop is for faster speed. just above the is the cavitation board and that water covers the board by 1 to 3 inches . hey the da%^&&^M motor runs great now . would trade it . well maybe 10 or 15 hp motor would be nice.
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i just picked up a gamefisher 5hp yesterday. model # 217-586612 , ser# 58003387...it appears to have no spark.....any ideas what i might check first??

thanx
FFM
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