Do you like treble hooks or single hooks on your jigs,spoons, cast masters etc? Who uses two different jigs or flies compared to one jig with a hook and the other just for weight? What type of set up gives you the most hooked fish rather than just bites that get off a lot?
I hear a lot of reports of more fish getting away than fish caught when ice fishing. I find this to be true for me also. Is this just a part of ice fishing, or can one do something to increase the fish that they land? Do you catch more fish if you keep hold of the rod over placing it in a holder? What are your secrets?
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In the ice fishing class that James taught I learned that trout will often lift your jig instead of pull it down. so if you use 2 jigs or add an extra weight of some kind you will not see as many bites because sometimes you bite is your line going limp. with perch however they are more aggresive and will hit and run.
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I use a light weight jighead. It is heavy enough to get your line down fast but not to heavy where you will miss the bite. Trout do usually pick your hook up, so if you watch your line close especially when you are putting it down the hole, you will see it go slack and that is uaually a fish on. I do not hold my pole and have pulled alot more fish out of the hole than not.You just have to watch it real close. Perch are pretty agressive and you will definetly know when they hit.
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The common advice is to hold your rod. Especially as the season progresses, trout don't bite as aggressively as they do other times of the year, and if the rod is not in your hands you will often miss the bite and the fish will not return. Another effective method is to do it the way that Doug Miller does. He sits his rod over an open five gallon bucket, with his reel hanging inside of the bucket. He puts his hand on, or just above the rod. Using this approach the rod is still (easy to see the bites) yet one can immediately set the hook. It also depends upon if the fish are attracted to the jig being actively jigged. If yes, then it is best to be holding and jigging the rod.
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I use the same "craddle" type method that you say doug uses. It makes for a fast set and still steady enough to see the smallest of bites. However, i don't use a bucket, I use an open playmate cooler and have the rod straddle it with the reel hanging down inside.
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I like to use small single hooks (#16-18) with a small grub. I use large single hooks with larger baits too. Occasionally I'll use #14-16 trebles. I get good hook ups with both hook types. You just need enough hook gap so the bait doesn't interfere with hook penitration.
Some reasons people lose fish throught the ice include: Small hooks don't penitrate very far; sometimes light wire straightens out; hooks may be dull and don't penitrate (even new hooks need sharpening); fish often bite very light in winter and don't get the bait past the tip of their lips so the hooks simply pull out of the lip; angles are different in ice fishing so you need to keep the line as straight as possible, don't allow the line to bend around the bottom of the hole or you'll lose feel.
Unless I'm warming my hands, I always hold my rod. I'd lose too many light, quick hits otherwise. Virtually all my largest ice caught fish have given me the lightest, almost imperceptible bites. When I need a motionless bait I put it under a float while holding the line taut for an instant hookset at the slightest movement.
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Fishnate, can you discribe using a float better? Do you mean a bobber floating in the ice hole after your jig is in place? How and when do you put the float on your line? I have never used this method but it sounds good. Thanks to all for your help, DKS.
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I'm not fishnate, but I will give you my two cents. If one is using one of those red and white bobbers, pinch your line at the depth you want to fish and then put the two lines through the clamp on the bottom of the bobber. The advantage of this method is that when a fish bites you can set the hook and the bobber falls off of the line. Much better than having to unhook the bobber before you can reel in. Another method is to use a slip bobber. These work great with a spinning reel, but won't work with most casting reels. They have an advantage that it is easy to reel up to a fish that comes through on the sonar. They also make slip bobbers that have a light built into them (I own four of them). These are great to use at night.
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When I use a float I use the very smallest one that will suspend my rig. I want it to barely float. The round red/white types aren't the greatest. I like the balsa wood types that stand on end when the line is taut. If I'm fishing less than 5 ft deep I fix the float to the line. But I can effectively fish water upto 90 ft by rigging a slip float.
Heres the slip rig: I put on a small bead then tie a dacron sliding knot (you can buy commercial ones) to the line then put on the float. When the line pays out it goes through the bead and float until the sliding knot comes to the bead. When you hook a fish the knot goes through the guides onto any reel easily and the float and bead stay in the hole. The sliding knot allows you to change depth.
The only time I have problems with this rig is when it's so bitter cold that ice forms quickly on the float and tips it over. Then I just have to knock off the ice periodically or use other method like a spring bobber on the end of the rod, lots of people like those.
Hope that was understandable. PM me if you need more explanation or even photos.
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And then when all is said and done and the truth is known, there are those of us that are to busy messing around with this and that, or holding a hot cup of joe, to worry about it when the bite comes, LOL![laugh]
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Now that may just be my problem. I have my C D player going, my stove cooking lunch, my heater to adjust, a change of lures every 5 minutes, the gas lantern to pump up, moving to a new spot and drilling new holes every half hour, changing clothes because I'm too hot or too cold. I just don't have enough time to babyset a dang fishing pole. Remember that I said that Jason taught me how to ice fish! We may not catch a lot of fish, but we sure are comfortable.
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Ditto on all the great advice above. One more thing that I do is to match the size of the bobber to what I'm fishing. I like the bobber about 1/2 way submerged. Then watch for "any" movement of the bobber. If it goes 'down' obviously you have a fish playing with your bait, but also watch for it to go 'up'. When it moves up you have a fish that has taken your bait and moved up. At times I have also had the bobber move sideways with no up or down.
I also like using a spring bobber that attaches to the end of the pole. There is usually a little orange bead attached a sensitive wire that your line is threaded through. Any movement no matter how small is broadcast by the bead moving. Some folks don't like the added equipment on the end of their rods, but for me the benefits outweight the problems.
I have seen some people who simply watch the dimple you line makes in the water for an indication as to what is happening on the other end. This works well also.
The pros and cons of these methods were hashed and rehashed last year on this board. Check old posts. Perhaps the old-timers can forgive me for reviewing, and the newcomers can find a useful tip. I know the info I've learned from this board has been invaluable.
thanks guys
Chester
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LOL That Right, comfort is the name of the game. I guilty of all the above! And next year Santa's bringing the Coldfooters Hilton a satellite dish!
Btw. As far as strike indicators. I've found a simple piece of large surgical tubing about 6" long stretch over the top eye and your line ran out through it works good. Personally tho', for very light bites I like the spring steel wire indicators with a bead.
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I have never sharpened a hook before. I think that I will have to learn how to do it. Who makes the best hook sharpener? Where do you get one? I also like the idea of using tongs to pick the fish up. I will try that on the perchies that I take home next time. Now if we can only get some hard water close to home!!!
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You might wan't to try a battery operated hook sharpener. Berkley makes some good ones, and they are easy and quick to use. I sharpen most all of my hooks, unless i'm using Gamakatsu. They are pretty good right out of the package. even cheaper than that would be a sharpening stone if you know how to use them ,they sharpen a hook quite fast. good luck maybe we will see you on the ice!
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You can find hook sharpeners at any fishing store worthy of the title. Even Walmart has them. I've seen ceramic, stone, metal, and battery opperated ones. I use a fine metal file type because....I do. I can sharpen any size hook I happen to be using. It only takes a few strokes, usually, and it's good to go. File from the point towards the bend. Take 3-4 strokes on both sides of the hook then test it by dragging it across your thumb nail. It should at least easily scratch it but ultimately it won't drag but will stick in with little pressure. If it rides across the nail easily you don't have a good point. It's also good to start out with high quality hooks like Gamagatsu, VMC, Owner, Mustad. I've actually had some of these hooks sharp enough new out of the box!
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[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]Here's a tech sheet from Luhr Jensen on hook sharpening. Check it out![/size][/black][/font]
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I found a new float at calranch last year that works great for those of you that have a problem with freezing. They are yellow with a red end. the red end has a small hole in it that the knot catches on. this keeps the knot and the hole below the water and does not freeze. the bobber is also removable, unlike the balsa wood.
Just my 2
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Thanks everyone, for all of your comments. I will now be able to try several new techniques on the ice. I hope that they will give me better luck catching fish.
Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good bite!
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