My new electric bow-mounted trolling motor has a built in transducer. I have a closed bow boat, so I won't be fishing from the bow. I plan on using my electric trolling motor to locate structure and fish and at times vertical jig. I will also use it for slow trolling, bottom bouncing and fishing shorelines. I was told that I didn't need a powerful fishfinder for the electric trolling motor, because it will mainly be used for locating depth and structure. I perceive that I will be using my more powerful stern-mounted fishfinder most of the time when I am actually fishing. I have no idea if I will be able to operate both simultaneously, or if they will cause too much interference for both units or perhaps the lesser powerful one. What is the experience of you who have fished with a transducer mounted on the bow, should I save my money and not purchase a powerful unit for the bow?
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Why not purchase an adaptor for that built in transducer in your trolling motor to fit your regular fish finder ane then use a transducer toggle swith so you can choose which transducer to use from the same fish finder. I've seen some boats with these toggle switches and they worked great for exactly what you described. It would save some money for sure. Anyways, just a thought....
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I would love to be able to use my current fishfinder. Unfortunately, Minn Kota doesn't make a wiring adaptor for the Raytheon brand of fishfinders. Perhaps someone smarter than me in electronics could modify an adaptor so that it would work on my fishfinder. Another option is to merely attach one of my transducers (I have a spare one) to the electric trolling motor. Because it was of nominal cost, I ordered the hardware to attach my transducer, but I know it won't be as clean as using the built-in one.
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Still looking for some guidance here.
Thanks,
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Kent..Here's my opinion. You can graph depth with just about any unit out there. But, if you will be relying on the unit to locate and identify structure, I wouldn't skimp on the power. Having the capability to most efficiently distinguish the difference between hard or soft bottom, as well as hard structure or soft structure would depend on having a nice strong unit. With a strong enough unit, you can see your jig movement, and even air bubbles that may be present below you. Lots of guys like to use the flasher type sonars, and many units out there have flasher type capabilities. But, the most important thing of all is being able to properly read the information that your unit is sending back to you. Without being able to properly decipher what is on your screen, you might as well not even have a fish finder on board. The bottom line is, I would go with the most powerful unit that fits in your current budget. Hope this helps.
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Hey Kent,
I think you should attach your current spare transducer to the motor. It will provide a clean signal and will get you running with no or minimal cost. Cabela's has mounting hardware, or you can fashion your own using those pipe screwy thingys.
Give it a season and see how well it works for you. If you had an open bow I'd tell you to get a new fishfinder just for the bow. But with your closed bow you'll be at your console anyways.
As for the mo' power = mo' better argument (as it pertains to sonars), you know where I stand on that issue (hint: it's cheaper to mfg higher power transducers and weaker receivers than the reverse).