07-17-2005, 08:21 PM
[cool][#0000ff]Anyone who looks back through all of the former threads on different rod racks and accessory designs knows that I have played around with many different materials in the search for the "ultimate" goodies. I recently began experimenting with the white plastic building materials they use for molding, trim, etc. I found some that is about 4 inches wide and about a half inch thick. It is waterproof (of course) and can be drilled, nailed, bolted and screwed about as well as wood. I have found, however, that if you torque down the power driver too heavy when putting in a screw that it is easier to strip out or tear out. If you tighten it down "just enough" it holds screws well.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The stuff I have been using I got at Home Depot at about $1.18 per foot. More expensive than cheap wood, but you do not have to sand, seal or paint it either. You can find it in several sizes and shapes, so you can come up with all kinds of stuff if you have an imagination. Some of the thinner walled stuff would need to be drilled and bolted, but is also more flexible, for fitting around the rounded contours of a tube. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]So far I have made 4-tube rod holders for both TubeBabe and myself. Two of the tubes are 13.5" apart (on center) so they will fit into the loops hanging from the D rings outside the top pockets on our Fat Cats. If you have different craft, you will need to measure the correct distances or use a different mounting system. We have a small snap at the bottom of the molding, to which we attach a piece of stretch cord fastened to the bottom of our tubes, in order to stabilize the rack and hold it steady during use.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The other application is my new tool rack, which goes on the opposite side from the rod rack. For me, my rods are on my non-casting side (left) and the tools are on the right, since I use them right handed. The tool rack has a couple of pieces of 1/2" PVC, cut lengthwise and screwed down, which are on the same 13.5" spacing to allow them to slip down through the 2 outside D rings. Friction keeps them firmly in place until you drop the air in the tube to put them in the car. Then you just lift them out.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]One caution. Use machine screws that are slightly shorter than the thickness of the plastic molding and anything you attach to it. Otherwise, if the point of the screw comes through to the back side, you either have to grind the points flat or risk perforating your ride. Not good. For a good firm hold, without fear of either punctures or loosening, use small machine bolts. Run them up through predrilled holes, and attach the nut on top. That will leave a smooth underside, next to the tube.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I have attached some pics that show closeups and instructions on both racks, plus a pic showing both installed on my Super Fat Cat...and results.[/#0000ff]
[signature]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The stuff I have been using I got at Home Depot at about $1.18 per foot. More expensive than cheap wood, but you do not have to sand, seal or paint it either. You can find it in several sizes and shapes, so you can come up with all kinds of stuff if you have an imagination. Some of the thinner walled stuff would need to be drilled and bolted, but is also more flexible, for fitting around the rounded contours of a tube. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]So far I have made 4-tube rod holders for both TubeBabe and myself. Two of the tubes are 13.5" apart (on center) so they will fit into the loops hanging from the D rings outside the top pockets on our Fat Cats. If you have different craft, you will need to measure the correct distances or use a different mounting system. We have a small snap at the bottom of the molding, to which we attach a piece of stretch cord fastened to the bottom of our tubes, in order to stabilize the rack and hold it steady during use.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The other application is my new tool rack, which goes on the opposite side from the rod rack. For me, my rods are on my non-casting side (left) and the tools are on the right, since I use them right handed. The tool rack has a couple of pieces of 1/2" PVC, cut lengthwise and screwed down, which are on the same 13.5" spacing to allow them to slip down through the 2 outside D rings. Friction keeps them firmly in place until you drop the air in the tube to put them in the car. Then you just lift them out.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]One caution. Use machine screws that are slightly shorter than the thickness of the plastic molding and anything you attach to it. Otherwise, if the point of the screw comes through to the back side, you either have to grind the points flat or risk perforating your ride. Not good. For a good firm hold, without fear of either punctures or loosening, use small machine bolts. Run them up through predrilled holes, and attach the nut on top. That will leave a smooth underside, next to the tube.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I have attached some pics that show closeups and instructions on both racks, plus a pic showing both installed on my Super Fat Cat...and results.[/#0000ff]
[signature]