Fishing Forum

Gentlemen,

I'm getting pretty serious about acquiring a unit for use on my tube and kayak. I don't know much about them except I don't want a toy like "SmartCast" and I've read on here that you want at least a 20 degree read from the unit. (Fishing Buddy is only 9 degrees I've read somewhere). I've attached some pictures from a Canadian Retailer's on-line catalogue. Any input on any of these units would be much appreciated.

Some units take 8 "AA" cells. Would they run alright on rechargeable nickel metalhydride batteries? I inquired at "Radio Shack" (now "The Source", here in Canada) about the sealed lead acid batteries but they didn't really know what I was talking about. Please let me know positives and negatives of any finders you fellows have been using. I have zero experience with these marvels of technology.
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Howdy smallmouth89,

I have two fishfinders - one is a Bottom line Fishing buddy 2255 and the other is a Humminbird matrix 37. The Humminbird incorporates the Smartcast system. As an option to the big unit, the Smartcast works wonderfully - However, as a stand alone unit, if it were your only fishfinder, I think you would be somewhat disapointed with the performance. Also, for the money, you could find a better value than the Bottom line fishing buddy line - it's a good unit, but I think you would be more satisfied with something else - especially if it were your only fish finder.

Many people here on the board seem to prefer the Cuda 168 - it has the functions most folks look for and it is a reasonable price.

As far as the battery goes, ask for a 12 volt security lighting back-up battery, or alarm system back-up battery - Here in the US, Radio shack sells them - that's where I got one of mine - BTW - when I got mine, the clerk had no clue what I was asking for - even though the batteries were sitting right next to him on a shelf and I had to point them out to him. You might want to check out a Radio Shack catalogue and get the part number to give the clerk so they can figure out what you are refering to - or, bring the catalogue with you and show the clerk the picture - so, they know that they do indeed carry such a thing.
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[cool][#0000ff]Buying a sonar is a subjective thing...like buying a car, shoes or deciding which restaurant to go to. It is a matter of choice. Of course, we all like to get some input from others before making those choices.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I can't offer you any more than I have posted in many previous posts, or than I have included in the sonar buying guide on the Picture Board. However, I will make an effort to guide you in the evaluation process.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]1. You do not need the biggest, baddest and most expensive unit for tubing, 'tooning and yakking. You need only three things: depth readings, bottom contour display and temperature. Having fish finding capability is good too, but unless you are only vertical jigging for schooled fish, most of the fish you catch will never be seen in advance on your display.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]2. You CAN spend too LITTLE. Forget the toys, like the Smartcast. Spend enough to get the features you want and need, without falling prey to the slick marketing copy on those "gadgets".[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]3. You can get a workable unit that has less than a 1000 watts of peak to peak power. Again, for most "flotation fishing" situations, you will be fishing in water less than 30 feet deep. In Utah, we sometimes fish large trout in water over 50 feet deep, and we need "real time" display that will show both our lure and the fish that are in the vacinity...and how they are responding to the lure. That ability is available on quite a few higher wattage units, but it costs more and requires a lot more battery power. Those are units for big boats, not tubes or toons.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]4. As you already recognize, try to get something with at least a 20 degree cone angle, if you want to see some fish on your screen. The units with 9 degree angles display only a very small "footprint" in the shallow waters typically fished by our kind.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]5. Unless you plan to fish for "suspending" fish, like crappies or trout, you will get little value from a "side finder" feature. However, they can sometimes help locate fish holding over the bottom near shore, when you are casting to the shoreline from a position away from the shoreline. They are especially good for seeing crappies and sunfish holding on top of sunken cover.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]6. Batteries? If the unit you choose runs on AA batteries, and can sustain you for a full day of fishing, then that is not an issue. Just buy a couple of sets of rechargeables and go for it. I personally prefer a good 7 amp 12 volt battery. It has plenty of juice to let me keep my sonar (and temp guage) on continuously, without worrying about running the battery down.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Look around for the gel cell SLA batteries. There are countless pieces of equipment and electronic devices that use them these days. If you can't find anything in your shopping area, check Cabelas. They usually have good deals on battery and charger combos. You will find them in the fishfinder section, as you will at some major sporting outlets.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Good luck in your search. Don't worry about asking your questions. We will help where we can, but the final decision is yours to make.[/#0000ff]
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I might put in a plug for the fishmark series finders from eagle. I have a fishmark 320 that I bought for ice fishing 2 yrs. ago. This spring, I adapted it for use on my fat cat. It has performed superbly. For only a slight increase in cost over the "168", it has a lot more capability. The mounting was easy, thanks to suggestions from this board. By drilling a hole in the center of the mounting bracket, and mounting in the drink holder, the unit actually pivots, which is handy in changing light conditions. I have fished approx. 1 time per week with my tube this summer, and give the fishmark a big thumbs up as a tube finder. I am at work right now, and I don't have my set-up pics on this computer, but if you scroll back through, I did post pics here on how I mounted it this spring.
[url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=196128;#196128"]LINK TO POST[/url]

Where I live, the only place I have been able to find the 12 volt sla batteries has been my local sporting goods store.
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Gentlemen,

Are these the SLA batteries that I need to run a Cuda or a Fish Easy 240? If so would the 7amp be better than the 4 amp? This is a Canadian supplier called the "Fishin'Hole".



P.S. How come I can't embed these pictures in the message body anymore?
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[url "http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21276&id=0029861017438a&navCount=2&podId=0029861&parentId=cat21392&navAction=push&catalogCode=IF&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat21392"]http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21276&id=0029861017438a&navCount=2&podId=0029861&parentId=cat21392&navAction=push&catalogCode=IF&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat21392[/url]

Haven't found this yet up in Ontario but it looks like the answer to all my needs.
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Hi I just thought I would post my findings and ask a few questions as well. I am using the pirahnamax 20 and rigged it up to use 8 2500 mah rechargeable batteries. I love the batteries as they weigh nothing and I average 5-6 days of 4+ hours or more before I recharge them. As for the pirahnamax vs the cuda I have no idea how they compare. I just got mine this year and I like it very much but still need to learn to use it a little more. My question is this, I mounted mine with a strap system that goes around the tube. I think it works great as I often go in at very shallow places that would cause anything more submerged to drag in mud etc. Am I giving things up by going this route? As I said I have a lot to learn about using it to it's full capabilities. So far I leave it in fish id mode for curiousity's sake but as I understand it I may get more info regarding thermoclines etc if I take it out of that mode. Not real clear on that so if someone cares to share some insight on that I would appreciate it. As you can see my rod holder is just plumbing material until I decide on the best fit for me. Good fishing to all

Vic (float boat)
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[cool][#0000ff]Thanks for dropping in and sharing the pic and input. Nice bass and nicely rigged craft. Looks plenty serviceable to me.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have had no personal experience with the Piranhas but have heard nothing but good reports from those who bought them. The small AA batteries are sure lighter and easier to manage than the big SLA batteries. Sounds like you get good life from them.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]On specs alone, the Piranha is close to the Cuda. About the same wattage, same cone angle and all that stuff. It probably gives you all the info you need for tubing. No need for seeing the thermocline unless you are trolling for fish that are affected by that sort of thing. Most fishing we do from tubes is definitely above the thermocline...unless we are spooning for bass in the middle of winter or something.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I am curious about the transducer mount. As I recall, it is a suction cup arrangement. Right? You probably have it on the bottom of the air chamber on your strap mount. That works, but you do need to be careful about dragging it across rocks or bouncing it off the parking lot.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Doesn't sound like you have "given up" anything. All you need to do now is spend some time with the manual and experiment with the menu settings to see what you get when you tweak something. And, it really is okay to leave the fish ID mode on. Gives you something to watch on TV when the fish aren't biting. On most days you will see a lot more fish on the screen than on the end of your line. Kinda humbling at times.[/#0000ff]
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Floatboat,

Did you have to come up with something special in order to run the PiranahMax 20 on "AA" batteries? Are you using nickel metalhydride rechargeables or something else? A friend of mine who has an Eagle unit told me that the rechargeable NMH batteries put out slightly less than 1.5 volts. He wasn't sure they would be able to power the unit. He's been using alkalines so far. Without the ability to recharge that could get expensive.
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Tubedude,
The transducer and depthfinder are mounted with a scotty fishfinder mounting strap. As the picture shows the strap came with two mounts, one for the screen and one for the transducer. No suction cup just a heavy plastic mount with slots for the strap. I did a little jerry rigging to make it work best for me, mainly just screwing the strap to the mount so the transducer won't slip on the strap and monkeying with the mounting holes to get everything aligned. Smallmouth, the batteries are nimh 2300mah AA's. I think I said 2500's earlier and they would certainly work even better. Battery hungry digital cameras have been a boon for these type batteries. The first ones I bought for my camera were 1500mah and would not last too long but the 2300 and 2500's will last quite a while depending on drain, ie alarms, lights and such. As for rigging, all I did was buy a 8 AA battery holder and accompanying wires for the holder from the local radio shack, batteries and charger from your local area ebay, and wire nutted it to the end of the depth finder battery cable. I am sure you could shorten the cable but I elected to just tie it up as shown and hook it to the d ring. I used a tupperware container to help keep the batteries dry in the back of the fc4 pouch. Someone (probably tubedude) has pointed out earlier that the ff don't really require 12 volts. But the 8 AA's do make 12 volts and the piranhamax has a battery alarm and I have set it as low as 8.5 and the alarm goes off before the screen dies. You spend more for the batteries and charger to begin with but they have a long life and will keep their charge for up to a month or longer depending on usage. Keep in mind that nimh batteries take about 5 cycles of charging and uncharging before they attain their longest life spans so your initial usage will be shorter by a good bit. I had to charge it after 4 hours the first time, 8-10 the second and from that point on I usually charge it every 2-3 weeks depending on how much time I get to spend on the water. Also my charger takes 8- 10 hours per four batteries so plan accordingly or buy two chargers if you decide to go this route. Hope this helps. Seems there are as many ways to rig things as their are tubes to fish in. Wet lines everyone.

Vic L.
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[cool][#0000ff]Good stuff FB. I have copied your pics to include in the Picture Board, and I have made this thread one of the B of B, under both sonar and batteries. You will be immortal.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]By the way, I edited your post here, and stuck in the battery pic from your second post. You can edit and add to any of your posts by clicking on the edit button at the top of your post (only you or I can change one of your posts). That way, if you forget something or spot a "boo boo", you can go back in and tweak it or add pics or whatever.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Thanks again to everyone for the great sharing.[/#0000ff]
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Thanks Floatboat,

Looks like a plan. I didn't know Scotty made that accessory. Did you find it in a fly shop?
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Hey smallmouth, I can't say for sure where I heard about it. But a search on the web for "Scotty fish finder holder" will turn up several sources. I don't remember which one I purchased it from. Good luck.

FB
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