I am getting ready to rig the new tube with some pvc for rod holders, a cool bimini top like tubedudes, and a fish finder. I am planning to make a frame that will connect to the d-rings on the tube. I'm planing on using 1 1/4 '' pvc. I am worried about getting it to heavy though, any recommendations on a power source for my fish finder, electric cooler, laptop for real time bft updates.... seriously, I am thinking of using a lawn and garden battery ( sealed of course) for power. any better ideas?
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[cool][#0000ff]I'm sure that you have been browsing through past posts and pics to help get some ideas. Once you settle on a design, we will be happy to help you work through it.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]One recommendation I would make, if weight is a consideration for your "frame" is to use 1" schedule 20 PVC rather than the heavy 1 1/4" schedule 40. It is about half the weight and plenty strong for almost any application I can think of.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]A lawn and garden battery of 12 volts should work fine. The main factor is what is the amp/hour rating vs the wattage on your sonar. Some sonars suck more juice than others. The low-end ones, like the Cudas and some Bottomline units, only need about 1/2 amp per hour so you can run your sonar a long time on a smaller capacity battery.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]After that, it is simply a matter of hooking up the right adaptors to allow quick setup and disconnect of the sonar to the battery and you are good to go.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]If you are worried about a power shortage, you might install solar panels on the bimini top. Either that or get a wood burning laptop. Gotta stay tuned for PMs and stuff.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I'm still not sure exactly what you meant by the "frame" thing. If you can do a rough diagram, it would help in the "wreck"o-mendations.[/#0000ff]
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Where do I start...
I have a Caddis Navigator U shaped tube. I plan on building a " frame " out of pvc that will attach from one side, around the back and to the other side. It will be held in place by the d- rings and maybe a strap or two to keep it held firmly in place. I have looked at the pics on the other boards and have some ideas. I plan on having space on my left for two rear angled rod holders. Is the inside diameter of 1'' pvc large enough to insert a rod handle into, and is it rigid enough to hang a battery off the side? On the right side I plan on having one forward angled rod holder, and a place to attach the screen of my fish finder. I would like to attach a place on the right side also to set my soft sided cooler to keep it out of the water and my sandwiches dry.
Once again your ideas and feedback are greatly appreciated.
Clint.
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[cool][#0000ff]Unless you have thick foam handles on your rods, the 1" schedule 20 PVC will hold them just fine. It is what I use on all my rods. On the other hand, the 1" schedule 40 stuff is thicker and will not hold most rod handles. If you use the heavier stuff, then you will have to use 1 1/4". [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The good news is the the outside diameters of both 1" PVC tubes is the same, and they will fit the same fittings, so you don't need to buy anything special...just 1" connectors, elbows, angles, etc.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The schedule 20 is plenty strong. You would have a tough time bending or breaking it in anything less than a 2 foot length. If you are only going to use a small SLA battery, I cannot imagine that it would not be plenty strong.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]One word of advice, from lots of experience (mistakes). Measure and cut carefully, and then fit everything together without glue before the final cement job. Make sure you planned right and that everything is going to fit and work as you planned.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Hope that helps. Keep on keepin' on.[/#0000ff]
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For my 2-rod holder that I made out of ABS, I still haven't glued or cemented anything together. It seems to fit tight enough that I don't have to worry about it coming apart. That way if I need to make modifications later I can do that too.
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I'll add my "half-o-scent".
I do have lots of experience(I got it the hard way) with the PVC/ABS/Rigid Electrical Conduit creations(you should see my collection of inventions(patents applied for) for shore/bank fishing and my tube/toon/tin boat additions and modifications).
As TD alluded to - measure twice and cut once. Then go put it together and put everything on it that you will use - before you commit it to cement.
Now here's my experience with the practical application.
Put everything together as you envision it. Firm it up by hand. Then take a rubber mallet and tap all pieces so they are taut(not-tight)-(taut means you can still get it apart)-(tight means it could be very difficult to take back apart in order to glue). You don't have to glue everything. Somethings will be fine if you only hand tighen them - others will need to be tapped in to a secure postion and lastly, somethings MUST BE GLUED(if you don't want to lose something important at the most inconvenient time) - only your design and it's application will determine which is which.
When everything is in perfect alignment, mark(I use a Sharpie marker) all the individual pieces and label them so you can return them to their exact location.
Glue one piece at a time-this means glue one part and put it in the place you designed it to go. Use standard PVC cement(you only have a few seconds to get it exactly in place before it sets up forever-hence the marking). Or, you can use silicon boat/aquarium sealant or shoegoo, but those take some time to set up and gravity has a funny way of making things shift into an unexpected and new postion while you wait.
Everything that will have any weight attached to it or has to support any weight or pressure or will be subjected to any stress or vibration has to be glued. This includes any cross members, framework or supports.
Use the beefier schedule 40 PVS/ABS/REC for the heavy stuff or anything that will be sustaining rigorous usage - it doesn't weigh that much more than the light weight stuff but, will sustain far more abuse - unless you plan on packing it on your back for a long ways, it sounds like the durability factor should be considered.
Schedule 20 will work quite well for your rod holders and even for your fishfinder transducer. But be carefull, depending on how you are using it, you can break or crack the stuff with relative ease.
Note: Rod handles can be quite different across the board of manufactures. It would be a good idea to get a sample of the intended rod holder material to make sure your particular rods fit before you buy any of your materials. Also, my casting rods are different in diameter than my spinning rods, so, keep in mind you should not assume that all would fit the same. And as TD also mentioned, if you have foam handle rods the problem can be compounded.
If you want any help with anything - let me know. I've probably already run across and worked out any fabrication challanges you might encounter.
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Thanks guys for your input! One last question...Have any of you had the occasion to use one of those wireless fishfinders with the wrist watch screen? I like the light weight , but I want something I can use, not a cheap "novelty" fish finder. I would prefer the extra weight rather than a fish finder that I can't use, know what i mean?
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Hey garbageman,
Don't do it ! I mean the wireless kind. I have one. It works in conjunction with my Humminbird Matrix 37 - it's a wireless remote castable model called the Smartcast. It has some functionality, but, it is very limited.
If the wireless variety were your only fish finder, you would be dissapointed at what it does not provide. As an accessory to the Matrix, it has some cool things about it and can be used for several different applications, but as a stand alone unit - it would be, as you alluded to - a novelty - not the serious fishing device that you might want. Besides, a nice fish finder does not weigh that much nor is it that difficult to set up on your tube.
I would suggest, that you go ahead and get a more functional one with the capabilities that you would be able to use as you probably intend to use one.
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