So I installed my new trailer guides and they worked great but would'nt you know it, the motor crapped out on me. Whoever said that b.o.a.t. phrase wasn't lying. It's a mid 70's 55hp Chrysler, it runs pretty strong for what it is. I had it tuned up at Joes Sporting and Marine last year (new coils, plugs, choke etc.) but I hate paying for something that I can do myself.
I believe it's the starter solenoid, it clicks when you turn the key but does not engage the starter motor. I pull started the motor today and it ran fine. If anybody has any experience with this I would appreciate any "tech" advice and if it comes down to it, some reliable boat repair shops.
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It may be the selenoid or it could also be a bad ground. Check to make sure you negative battery cable to the battery is hooked up tight and the connection is clean. Also check the negative cable where it hooks to engine block. It should also be tight and clean. To test the selenoid you can take a test wire and hook one end to the postive cable where it attaches to the selenoid. Take the other end of the test wire and breifly (1 second) touch it to the positive terminal on the starter. KEEP YOUR FINGERS AND TEST WIRE CLEAR OF THE FLY WHEEL WHILE DOING THIS OR YOU MAY LOSE A FINGER OR THE FLYWHEEL MAY EAT THE TEST WIRE. If the starter engages then you know the selenoid is bad. I had the same problem with my 35 hp Johnson and Lee from Lee's Marine had me go through this same test. I had a bad selenoid. It cost me about $29 to replace myself and its been working fine for the last year. Good luck
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I had a situation like that happen to me on my old 90hp merc.The pin would not engage.I tinkered with it a bit then i saw what the problem was.The pin that engages was stuck .I used some wd40 and it loosened it right up and never gave me a problem again as long as i kept it lubricated.Try that it might work.
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I tried the wire thing and besides a spark that scared the crap out of me I still had nothing, I will check the pin. The person I bought the boat from had replaced the starter with a used one so I was hoping that wasn't it but I will tinker with the starter and see what I can see.Thanks.
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Ok not to toot my own horn but this is what I do for a living. I sale the stater and alternator parts to the rebuilders and was a rebuilder for years. One thing a free spin test is not a good test. THe starter is not put under any stress of a flywheel therefore will spin very easy. Your brushes or bushing could be worn out or ever the armature. Second the solenoid yes could be bad or you could have a voltage drop from your swith termial to the key switch or even from your battery to your starter. last but not least bad battery just because a battery reads 12 volts does not in any way make it good. i would put a volt meter on your battery and hit your starter switch. If it drops more then a volt right off the bat your battery is probaly toast. last but not least if your starter is bad take it a rebuilder do not buy the crap they sale at autozone checker or any parts store.If you had a heart problem would you goto a OB/GYN I don't think so.if this don't work your cables themself could be bad or just not makeing contact well. Good luck and if You need more help feel free to ask.
Oh was nice meeting you at lindon sunday
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The solenoid is just a set of contacts that send DC energy to the starter . If you are afraid of sparks you may not want to try this . the bigger wires going to the solenoid disconnect one wire and touch the other larger wire with it for a second . If the starter does not turn , it is your starter . Sounds like your starter any way . Sometimes all you need to do is change the brushes for a few bucks or take it to a starter alternator place like A&E Generator to have it fixed . In a boat I prefer to buy new if I can but I have been known to jump across the solenoid to get me going again with just screwdrivers .
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The solenoid click thing makes me suspect corroded battery terminals or maybe another poor connection. Try this, turn the lights on then hit the starter. If the lights go out, clean the battery terminals. Disconnect them & use one of those good wire brush type cleaners you can get at any parts house. if you gotta go get a terminal cleaner, takethe battery with & have them check it. Reconnect them & be sure they are tight. Try again & if the lights go out, check & clean every other battery cable connection. If that fails to get you running, it's gotta be the starter or solenoid. A&E can check both of them & get ya fixed up.
Good luck.
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Right you are . He has a trolling motor so I figure if he had another battery he would have tried it before suspecting the starter .But yes I am assuming and we know were that goes . Hard to trouble shot with a post with limited info .
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I tried my trolling motor battery and checked connections with no luck. This is what bothers me the most-Last Sunday on DC I turned the key, starter turned but engine did not fire, turned again nothing (old motor but always starts) then I turned it again and it just clicked. Could the starter go all at once like that?
My boat does not have lights. Just a motor, a bow mount, and finder. The motor has it's own battery to start from and is always charged and is 2 years old. If I need to supply some more info Just ask, I'm a better plumber and welder than a two-cylinder mechanic[blush] so I'm not sure about the little things that make the engine work. I can fix my diesel truck and my wifes car but this little motor is just kicking my butt. Is there a way to test the starter to make sure that it is bad besides jumping the solenoid? Can Autozone test it like a car starter? I can't wait for a brand new boat payment...just sign on the dotted line.
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I used to work at A&E Generator I would take it to them they will test it. I would not trust sending my worst enemy to a autozone or checker. They can test on the boat also but might charge you a couple of to do so.
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