Fishing Forum

[cool][font "Times New Roman"][size 3] I get a lot of requests for information on how to attach sonar, rod racks, live baskets, nets, and other "add-ons" to a basic flotation system. Over the years, I have experimented with a wide variety of systems and methods of attachment.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]I thought it might make an interesting thread for us to share some of the things we can't live without on our craft, and maybe some things on our "wish list"...that we would like to have...if only we could figure out how to work it, or work it into the budget.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]I'll go first. It's a tie between first and second for my rod rack and my sonar...as to which is the most vital addition to my new kick boats. I used to do fine with only a single rod. Then, I started carrying one extra, and built a single PVC strap-on tube to hold it. This evolved into first a two-tube and then a three tube setup. My current rack holds 4 extra rods, and I keep a 5th tube on my casting arm side to hold the rod I'm using while handling fish, tieing lures, etc.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]After working my way through several flashers and exotic sonar systems, I settled on Eagle's Fish Easy as the model sonar I have used on my past few craft. It may not have all the fancy features of some of the high end models, but it doesn't require a deepcycle 12 volt marine battery either. It only sucks about 1/2 amps per hour, so a small SLA (sealed lead acid) battery will run it full time for over a full day on the water without recharging. It tickets out at just over $100, but it provides the readouts I need for depth and bottom contours and structures. The little fishy pixel cartoons are generally reliable, if you learn how to tune and read the system.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]For floatation fishermen who do a lot of vertical jigging, and like to watch their lures...in relation to the fish coming through the "cone"... you can buy a more powerful Garmin for about $300, or a Vexilar flasher for a little more. This is my favorite for fishing straight down from a tube, or when ice fishing. It requires skill to adjust it and to translate the signals, but it is the ultimate in "real time" readouts.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]For most of my fresh water and light salt water fishing, I use the largest metal fish basket sold by Bass Pro Shops and a couple of other sources. It will hold large walleyes and catfish, although you might want to also carry a strong rope stringer for the occasional monster, too big for the basket. For larger and/or toothier/spinier fish, you can craft a good fish bag from large mesh laundry bags and the foam "floatie" toys sold for children's swimming pool play.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Landing nets can be anything from clip-ons to long handled, big bag nets for halibut and other hefty customers. When fishing for stripers and salmon in northern California, I used to get some strange looks and "funny" comments as I tooled around with a giant net hanging out behind me. Today, I get by with a large clip on net, with a retractable cord, for most light to medium fishing, but don't hesitate to add the bigger net if you are in big fish country. You need to be able to capture and handle your fish effectively, and to avoid contact between the fish and your inflatable...especially if they have teeth and/or spines.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]By the way, a Bogagrip or the Berkeley Lip Gripper are two good tools to have aboard too...especially if you wish to release larger fish without handling too much. These things make it much easier to control a big active and potentially dangerous fish.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]If you use live bait, you will need to either tow around a special bait bucket, with holes to allow fresh water to circulate, or fashion a floating "live well" from fine mesh wire or nylon bags. These should have easy to operate lids so that you can grab baits one-handed, and should be mounted on the side you will want them for grabbing...so you don't have to reach across.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]When I am fishing with nightcrawlers, or other baits sensitive to heat, I keep them in a little insulated container (soup-sized Thermos) with a few ice cubes or some of that gel you can freeze in the freezer. If you accidently drop them over the side, they float, and they don't require much space in your craft...but they keep the bait fresh.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Other potential "upgrades" include a radio (for emergencies) and/or a walkie talkie system if you are going out with one or more other anglers. They are great for sharing info and finding fish and patterns. You will also come to appreciate the use of the new lower priced hand held GPS (global positioning system) units. These are especially helpful when you have special "honey holes" far enough from shore that you can't accurately triangulate with visible references. Modern technology is wonderful.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Some folks carry anchors, and use them to good advantage. I have never liked adding the extra weight and bulk, on the outside chance I might need an anchor to hold in the wind. I go home when it gets too nasty, although I have also toughed it out to enjoy some great fishing for species which like a bit of chop and turbidity.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]As JapanRon (I think) mentioned on a previous post, you can almost sink your craft with all of the potential add ons. You have to use your own discretion...tempered with a lot of common sense. Of course, that is a commodity lacking in folks like us, who go afloat...trusting our lives to a thin wall of rubber or vinyl...while getting up close and personal with critters covered with pointy things and often having a nasty disposition after being dragged up from their dining rooms.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]How about it? Anyone wanna divulge how they have their own units dolled up...and why? Or...anyone need any halp on adding some of that stuff? I have a lot of writings and diagrams I can email or PM on this site if you let me know what you are trying to accomplish. Also, if you go to Kiyo's site...baytubers.com...there is a section on accessories which you can buy, or at least get some ideas on how to craft them yourself.[/size][/font]

Here's a pic of my dolled up Kennebec, with most of the add-ons visible:


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[][#800000][size 4] how long are the rods that you are using?[/size][/#800000]

[#800000][size 4]tommy[/size][/#800000]
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[cool] Most of the ones in that pic are 6 1/2 or 7 feet. I usually take one ultra light, a couple of medium light, a medium and a medium heavy...for fresh water. That lets me work everything from panfish to largemouths. In clear water, I seldom use heavier line than 6#, and most of my fish are taken on my light gear and 4# line. I bring out the stouter stuff for hardbaits and large plastics, especially when I have to use heavier gear in deeper water.

Was there a motive behind your question? And, what tackle do you prefer...and why? Tag...you're it.
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how would one go about mounting a bft sticker or flag pole for boater safty?

will the sticker stick on the back side of the seat?
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[cool][font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Most marine outlets have fibreglass shafts/poles for mounting or displaying bright orange safety banners. If we had some BFT banners, they could be flown just below the hot orange...like the billfish flags on offshore boats.[/size][/font]

[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]As far as sticking to a float tube...probably not a good plan. With the porous nylon cover, and inherent moisture, the adhesive would not last long. A better plan would be to provide printed or embroidered decals, to iron or sew on vests or other items of clothing. Also, how about some hats and caps with the BFT logo prominently featured.[/size][/font]
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[] [#800000][size 4]I have so many "sticks" I don't know which ones to take half the time. I use 6# to 12# line most of the time. Usually, its its 6 or 8. I need to get a pontoon boat if I were to get sillious[laugh] [/size][/#800000]
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Hey there TubeDude,

Nice to see some new posts. I just bought a big truck inner tube at a yard sale today. I'm cutting it up and using part of it as a protector against those little spiney creatures. Cut properly, the tube contour fits perfectly with my U-boat and slips between the bladder and the canvas cover. Got 3 sets out of one big ol tube.

I was supprised to hear, on good word, that the authorities DFG? stipulate PWC's, here in California, must have a net of at least 18 inches in diameter when fishing! Heard it too many times by reliable guys to doubt it. Remember when fishing the Colorado river, both Arizona and California laws may be enforced.

On the flag business, in California, if you fly a red flag 36 inches square it becomes a distress and or diver down flag according to Coast Guard size regulations. I would think something a lot smaller would be OK. 12 inches square sounds OK to me.

If you want to keep your stuff such as rods, gaffs, nets, etc. make sure you have either or both leashes for rods and the pool noodle stuff to make other stuff floaty.

If you flyfish and have all these contraptions like I do, you will have to start having to plan what needs to be covered up so that your line does not catch on every darn thing that sticks out 1/64th of an inch from anything on the boat. The casting apron is NOT enough. Try to make your rod/gaff/flag pole holders so that they can be angled depending on the type of fishing you're doing.

That's enough from me on this subject for now.

tsurikichi
a.k.a.JapanRon
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the flag I was thinking about was like the ones used on bycicles,

a small diamiter 6 foot fiberglass rod with a orange triangle flag at the top. and maybe put a bft sticker on both sides of the flag.

is there a way you can mount a bycicle flag pole to a tube?

[unsure] when I get run over by one of them pwc's I dont want their excuse to be that they thought I was a bouye to race around. [pirate]
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[] Hey there davetclown,

The possiblility of getting run over is one of the reasons I go on weekdays mostly. Others don't yet have that luxury I know. I get the feeling that our PWC guys on freshwater bodies are a little rowdier than the guys on the Big Salty. Could booze have something to do with it? ha ha (I ain't against drinking) I didn't mention it but some lakes here in California REQUIRE that you have a flag on your floater as well as a PFD and one lake even requires WADERS!

I have so much jun.... stuff on my rig (just couldn't do anything without every piece of it), I built a frame of PVC pipe with different components to serve as tiltable rod holders, gaff, flag (One lake's reqs are 12x12 red flag), net (California regs require fishing craft to have one 18 inches in diameter) removable anchor reel (initiated patent application on that), etc.

Every tube is different so you'll have to use the clips, ringlets, etc. on your's to attach what you want to make. My main PVC frame mounts at the front of the tube (behind me) as my Stealthrider has some mounting inserts built in! The truth is, it's not such a good idea to have too much weight up front because you want the tube's bow to ride high to increase speed, cut the wave action, and.... to ease launching and landing, especially in places where there is a lot of wave action. I would appreciate the humor of seeing myself flip backwards like a sealion rolling off a bouy but it might become life threatening!

My buddies on another site (BT's) make and sell racks that lay along the side of the tube. Intergrating the racks with other stuff like a livewell will justify the space it's taking. You might be able to attach the pole to something you have already.

Again, it all depends on what kind/style/model tube you have. Great idea on the bicycle pole! Does it bolt, clip, or screw on the bicycle's axles or fork? You may need to make a little base for it and then attach the base (sometimes easier) to the tube. Are the poles extendable?
I would be cool to have a flag pole that you could extend according to traffic conditions and regs.

Hummmmmmmmmmmmm See what you've done now! it's out to the garage to consider a flag pole design upgrade!! ha ha

Just a thought,

JapanRon
a.k.a.tsurikichi
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[cool]Somebody get ahold of JR before he goes crazy with that cordless drill and those long screws. He's liable to hurt hisself.

Think carefully, my friend. Thin air bladder...sharp points...these things do not go together well.

For what it's worth, I attach some broom handle clips from my friendly Home Depot, with which I snap on my transducer rod for my sonar. If you can find a couple of similar goodies, and a way to attach them, you can sna[ the flag rod in when laundhing and disassemble it when you hit the beach.
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[cool]The pontoon I own is one of the first that were built by a company out of Brigham City, UT now gone. To get the oar locks I had to have them made by a local company, they did a real good job. The fish finder I use is the Fishin Buddy III. I can take up to two to three rods out with me using the accessory that velcroes onto the frame. I have a clamp on battery powered white light for night jobs, and to finish it off a nice little anchor system that I developed, has a bag, 100' of rope, anchor, and a way to keep the line in check with a clothes line holder. Next is to find a way to mount a motor and a small rack onto it. Also when I put the oars on it, I wasn't sure what length to get so I got the 7' ones. Bad idea now I am wishing for the 5'-6' ones. Also need to redesign my foot rests that I built for it. Not strong enough. Otherwise it is all decked out. But every now and then I see something that looks neat, and my design strategy starts changing. Hmmmm, now what else can I make it look good with. Working on an idea to tow my 5 year old around in a tube with it too.
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[cool][#0000ff]Sounds like you are creative and that you have put a bit of work into your pride and joy. How about posting a couple of pics. We can always use new ideas and we like to see what others are doing.[/#0000ff]
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[cool]The pontoon I own is one of the first that were built by a company out of Brigham City, UT now gone. To get the oar locks I had to have them made by a local company, they did a real good job. The fish finder I use is the Fishin Buddy III. I can take up to two to three rods out with me using the accessory that velcroes onto the frame. I have a clamp on battery powered white light for night jobs, and to finish it off a nice little anchor system that I developed, has a bag, 100' of rope, anchor, and a way to keep the line in check with a clothes line holder. Next is to find a way to mount a motor and a small rack onto it. Also when I put the oars on it, I wasn't sure what length to get so I got the 7' ones. Bad idea now I am wishing for the 5'-6' ones. Also need to redesign my foot rests that I built for it. Not strong enough. Otherwise it is all decked out. But every now and then I see something that looks neat, and my design strategy starts changing. Hmmmm, now what else can I make it look good with. Working on an idea to tow my 5 year old around in a tube with it too. [/reply]
Albino T- Venture Outdoor Products is now the old Leigh company. New owners, new products etc.
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Hey there Albino trout! []It looks like you forgot to log in. oooops[blush] No problem. It happens to everyone once in awhile.[cool]
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Need to find a way to make foot rests for the toon, any ideas?
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[cool][#0000ff]Most commercially available toons come with foot rests, if they are designed to operate under oar or motor power. If yours does not, then you will have to improvise.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]It would be helpful to either have a picture of the front end of your craft, or at least to know the make and model. They all have different frames, lengths of pontoons, D rings and attachment options. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]If you have a suitable frame, there should be some way you can rig up a PVC crossbar or something. It is going to depend on how much room you have and how long and how high you want the footrests. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Once I have a picture of your current setup, I will be better able to make an accurate suggestion.[/#0000ff]
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Just a thought, but my ol' Alpine (6' pontoon), had nylon straps that came off each side of the nose in a loop and a bar (about 3 ft long connected to each side with quick clips. The bar would sway, but it was nice to put your feet on, fully adjustable and quick to remove.
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For an extra foot rest I strap 3 short bungy cords across the frame just above the bottom foot rests, very comfy, if you're not using fins of course, the bungy gives and it's very comfortable. I also use bungy cord to strap cushions on my "bottom" seat and the back of the seat, gets you up higher and adds some comfort it does tend to add to the "slipping off" sensation though.

I also have 2 bungy straps on the cargo area on the back, if you want to keep your fly rod out of the way snap it in under the straps, it won't go anywhere and sticks out at a 90 degree angle keeping it out of the way, actually had a fish on it that way once when the fly was drifting in the water behind me.
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