My gas auger (Eskimo...) is going on its 3rd year now and I noticed at Pineview last weekend it would barely cut through the ice. I didn't realize how bad it was until I watched another guy whip his auger out and drilled a hole in just a few seconds...where mine takes MINUTES.
Has anyone had any luck sharpening their blades, or is it best to just replace them?
I have a hard time spending $24.00 for new blades if they are just dull.
Randy
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I've tried putting a new edge on them with a good hand file, but they were never as good as a new one. So I just buy them now.
Although you can buy the item to resharpen, but it's not cheap:
[url "http://www.thorvie.com/ice_auger_fixture.html"]http://www.thorvie.com/ice_auger_fixture.html[/url]
I buy my new ones now from these guys:
[url "http://www.marinegeneral.com/acatalog/Online_Catalog_Eskimo_Auger_Accessories____216.html"]http://www.marinegeneral.com/acatalog/Online_Catalog_Eskimo_Auger_Accessories____216.html[/url]
Good luck!
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...If I knew somebody that owned one of those machines and was close by, I would gladly pay $10.00 to have mine sharpened.
Anybody want to buy one and go into the ice auger sharpening business?
or this: Everyone give me $10.00 and I'll buy it and you guys can come over and use it whenever you want...[
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I'm in South Jordan. Cash only please...
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I tried to get mine sharpened at a local knife store and they said that because of the curve in the blades that it would be pretty hard. I tried to sharpen them myself with a file and I pretty much ruined them. I hate the idea of buying blades for $24.99 too, but I think it's the way to go. I have had my auger for six years and it has worked great until I tried to sharpen them myself. The new blades should last quite a while so even though they cost as much as a hand auger, I would just buy them.
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(Eskimo...) [/reply]
Well theres your problem. Altho' I've heard they make a great shanty anchor if you have 4 . I suppose a fella could also use it to pound a hole in the cap.. Kiddin' [
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Use a honing stone if you must waste your time.. Atleast it will end up sharp even tho the bevel wont be right.. But, I'd simply replace them and safe yourself the grief. Whats more, 25 bucks?,, heck thats cheep, mine are 35 clams..
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N. E. T. O, just put it on Arron's credit card, easy solution!!
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I already mentioned that to him last trip out. I said that since I bought that ice auger, exactly 1/2 of all holes drilled were his. Hence, he should pay for the whole new set of blades. His reply?..."I'll pay for 1/2 of the new blades, if I have 1/2 ownership of the auger in case me and Michael Bolton want to go out without you or something..." (He really said that)
...I should have stolen his credit card out of his wallet instead of playing the pop can trick on him last weekend. He didn't know it was me that played the trick on him...he wouldn't know it was me that stole his credit card!
Randy
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So let me get this straight... You buy the auger, and pay for half the blades and it's still half his auger???? Yep, sounds like the A-man to me!!! You guys going out on MLK day?
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Either Saturday or MLK day. Come along if you'd like. Warning: Our new ice shelter (...which he hasn't paid for his 1/2 yet either) is only a 2 man...and I think its gonna be cold...
Probably going back to the Berry.
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Half of the problem I've noticed with my blades (already dull, and I bought my hand auger just after christmas!) is the stainless they use is not of the highest quality. I haven't tried the magnet test on them but I'll betcha for sure that a magnet will stick to them. I'm going to buy a new set and take my old blades and have my neighbor run 2-3 tig weld beads down the blade, then resharpen them with a bench grinder. If there is not a whole lot of impurities in the metal (impurites make a crappy weld), that should improve the hardness of the blade. Granted, welding them will make them more brittle but I don't think that will be a big deal just drilling holes through ice. BTW, I've just got the cheap Eskimo 8" hand auger, and when the blades get dull, that is way to much work for me! I'll let you all know how the experiment goes.
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Yeah, we'll be up on MLK, around 7 or so. I hear it will be cold but not as cold as Saturday will be. Let me know where you guys are planning on fishing, we'll meet up and show the A-man how to fish!! BTW, plan on that shelter continuing to be purchased by you and 1/2 his!!!
Did he really not know you pulled the pop can trick?? Probably doens't know how to seat a load in a muzzleloader as well........[
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Some of this is hte obvious but I think it is important to note that proper care of augers helps tremendously on the blades.
Whenever we go the first thing we say to people who haven't gone is DON'T SLAM THE AUGER ON THE ICE. Don't hit the blades or slam it down on the ice to make a hole. That ruins blades mighty quick.
Blades generally last us 2-3 seasons with a lot of use. Just a tip.
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I'd be interested in how your experiment goes. Let me know how it works and keep the phone number of the guy that does it for you!
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Sounds good, I like MLK day better based on the forecrash anyway. I'll PM you on Sunday and let you know where we are planning on going.
He seriously does not know that I pulled that pop can trick on him, unless he has read the report! But I know he doesn't have computer access lately.
He DOES know how to seat a muzzleloader now...we taught him last year after he missed two bucks due to misfires!
Randy
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N.E.T.O, I have had no luck sharpening my mora hand auger blades but my jiffy power auger sharpen`s easily. I am not sure what the design is like but if it is a row of individual teeth all at the same angle all you have to do is un-bolt it and stick it in a vise. Then depending how bad it is take a double cut bastard file and run it parallel with the teeth so you are fileing all at the same time. Have a pair of leather gloves on too because it is fairly easy to slip. You can use one hand to hold pressure on the teeth which help the cut and also holds the angle. Only file on the tappered side. When all the teeth are even all the way out to the tip, then switch to a single cut file that removes the grooves and gives you a sharper edge. When you get to this point is when you take the single cut file and in the same direction, all teeth at once, you file the back side or the flat side which gets rid of the rolled over edge. Take as little off the flat side as possible. You might have to work both sides alittle to get rid of the burr and expose the razor edge. Put a touch of paint on it for rust and guaranteed it will cut better than it did brand new. I have used the same blade for fifeteen years and still it is doing five second holes. It sounds like it takes awhile to sharpen but in reality it takes longer to get a wrench and socket and unbolt it off your auger. Give it a try and you won`t buy new. Good luck. Fish On
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I have seen a blade sharpener made by HT that looks like one of those small knife sharpeners. It is just a "V" with a carbide steel on one side and a plastic guide on the other. It was about $15. I looked on the net but couldn't find it. I can't remember where I saw it, but it is out there.
I think it was made by Accu-sharp.
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[cool][#0000ff]Three things you will not be able to learn on BFT:[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]1. Diamond cutting[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]2. Brain surgery[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]3. Auger sharpening[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Eskimos do not cut as well as some others, even with sharp blades. Once they get a ding in the main cutting point, they are useless. And, if you take a file to them it is almost a sure thing that you will ruin the point or the pitch...Slurpee ice.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]As Coldfooter suggested, you can touch up an auger blade with a light touch from a good stone or diamond hook point file. A little goes a long way. Just taking it from sorta sharp to razor edge makes a world of difference. You can't get that kind of edge with a file.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The single biggest problem in sharpening auger blades in getting the "dig-in" point exactly right. If you even touch the back side of that point with a file or stone, you are out of business. It has to have maximum dig and cut. Sometimes even a slight tweak with a stone can make a world of difference. So can a heavy grinding job or a siege in the vice with a file.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Bottom line...unless you REALLY know what you are doing and have the right stone, go buy a new set of blades. Cheaper and less stressful.[/#0000ff]
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions, experiences, warnings, etc.
I just returned from my garage outside where I went ahead and unbolted the blades from my auger, placed the blades carefully in my vise, and with leather gloves on (thanks!) I very carefully filed a nice edge back onto each blade. I know they are not perfect, but they are much sharper now than they were before.
I'll let everyone know how it worked out after this weekend.
Thanks again!
Randy
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That is a very good tip.
My first trip on the hard deck this year was to Mantua with TD, and as we were getting geared up, we watched 2 guys spend 20 minutes trying to dig a single hole through 4-5" of ice. They would do a couple of turns, and then pound the hell out of the ice for about 5 minutes. I felt kinda bad for them, but it was a rather amusing start to the day. [
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I found the sharpener I was talking about. I will try to cut and paste the pic and description from the Accu-sharp website, I'll also provide a link.
[size 1][#000066]AugerSharp (007) The AugerSharp Ice Auger Sharpener is the Ice Fisherman's dream. If you ice fish, you know what work it is when your auger blades are dull. Now you can spend more time fishing and less time drilling holes in the ice. The full length finger guard protects fingers while the reversible Diamond Honed Tungsten Carbide blade keeps a razor edge on your auger blades. The bright orange finger guard makes is easy to find on the ice too! AugerSharp will not rust and can be cleaned with soap and water or washed in a dishwasher. If there's an ice fisherman in your house, they already want this product! [url "http://www.accusharp.com/"]http://www.accusharp.com/[/url][/#000066][/size]
I would say this is the tool you want to have in your gear to use about every time you fish. A few strokes and like using a steel on a good kitchen knife, your razor sharp again.
NETO,
Now that you have taken the plunge I would use a fine stone to dress the edge. It will take it from sharp to razor sharp.
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