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tried postin this in the tackle section, but no one goes there or something :/

i wanna here your opinion on what are some good polls and spin reels and why you think so. im lookin for a versatile setup that can catch various species of freshwater fish and can fish most lures successfully. money is not a real problem... ive got a summer job and no expenses to pay for Smile

can yall explain the benefits of a stiffer rod compared to a more flexible one, a heavier rod to a lighter rod, and a longer rod to a shorter rod and any others aspect of a pole that is significant
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What area of the country are you in and what species do you plan on fishing for??

That would help us to get it narrowed down for you.[cool]
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zebco, rino, shakespere, eagle claw on the lower end, dont go any cheeper if you want to keep it for any time.....

Ya, I did buy three rods off the shelf of sears about thirty years ago for a buck and a half a peice, but that was the exception to the rule. and yes they have been through several reels each....
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Hey,
"Stiffer" rods (high/fast action) will help you cast farther and faster whereas "bendy" (low/slow action) rods will give you more of a "whip" action. I find that fighting fish is a lot more fun on low action rods because the rod bends much more and makes the experience a little more challenging and interesting. But really, just starting out, I'd reccommed a medium action rod in a Shakespeare's Ugly Stik model (tough, solid beginning rod). Hope everything works out...let us know how rod shopping goes.

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I'm a big fan of Shimano. Both the reels and the rods now as they are guaranteed for life. My 2500 stradic has boated smallies to school stripers without a problem. I agree a med action rod is a good place to start.
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hey, thanks for the replies... im from the south and i think its pretty accurate to say that i only try to catch trout or bass, but i want something that can fish most species without a problem. also, those loomis rods feel really good to me... i wouldnt get their 300$+ rods but i wouldnt mind droppin 200-250$. its just they confuse me cuz they have a crankbait rod or a jerkbait rod or a jig rod and i just want a rod that can fish all lures cuz im too lazy to carry around 4 poles with me in case i wanna switch my lure and that would get insanely expensive. is this what it comes to? do yall have bring multiple rods with you to fish bass?

also, would medium action work well with trout? i know you want it flexible so that you can work the trout into the net.

um...ill prolly have another essay of questions in the next few days Smile
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Hey,
Personally, I don't think you really need a "specific" rod for any of those lures. I bring out two poles MAX per trip and neither are lure-specific. Thus, a regular pole of standard pricing ($30-$150) would more than accomodate your needs. If you're really into Loomis gear than by all means (they're a nice rod) pick one up.

Anyways... to answer your main question no, I don't bring different rods for different lures when bass fishing with a spinner or closed face, just a couple of different actions. As far as actions go, start with a medium (trout will be O.K. as long as the test and pole weights match your target game).
Good luck and definitely let us know what you decide to do!

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eh, i really dont know what to do yet. i was just gatherin some info for when i do decide to upgrade. right now ive got a 30$ setup from walmart. 5 and a half feet, super light and flexible... the only problem in that it holds 100 yards of 4lb test, lol. im gettin by with 6lb spiderwire so its all good. i guess i dont really NEED a quality rod. do yall think the rod or the reel is more important, and also could yall help me pickin out a good reel if i were to get one. what qualities am i lookin for?
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Hi,
If money is not an issue then go for a gloomis rod paired with a daiwa reel. I cant really suggest specific models however, for any type of freshwater fishing it is a winning combo.
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One thing I don't feel comfortable doing is recommending someone buy into a $200 rod right off the bat especially when there is a DEFINATE difference in rod action vs. presentation/technique! I own a handfull of Loomis rods and they're nice rods.. but going from one $30 set-up to 1 rod with a $200 price tag with-out getting specific about your fishing techniques is a bit out of hand.. well, in layman's terms, its borderline nuts if you ask me.

Point blank (no pun intended [Wink]) the majority of Professional Freshwater Fisherman don't use rods with that kind of price tag.. "Why not?", you ask? ..It's not necessary.

Take a bit of time and fish more. Gain a sense of what your personal likes and dislikes are with different rod actions, grip styles, and lengths before dumping the coin into a rod that you may not be entirely pleased with concerning the type of fishing you do. Plenty of manufacturers offer GOOD/GREAT quality rods for MUCH less.. working yourself through some of the less expensive rods will give you an idea of what you should first want and expect in a rod for a specific technique/presentation.

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A good rule of thumb is to use a med. action for treble hook lures and a med/heavy for single hook rigs. The med won't drag the hook out of their mouth and the heavy will allow you to set a single hook better. I do have five rods when I go out, just because I'm too lazy to change out the rigs. Two rods should be enough to get you started.
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I like Daiwa for their rods. I fish with a medium action rod. Their reels are junk though. I got mine as a combo and reel gave out after 2 weeks. I got an Eagle Claw Aristrocrat G230 reel now. Buy a Daiwa rod seperate and get and Eagle Claw reel. It held up to 27 inch channel catfish nicely and the rod sure was bending like mad and it was a heck of a fight. I was worried it would ruin the rod or the reel and both were perfectly fine. Avoid Johnson rods and reels like the plague. I had mine for 2 weeks with the recommend max test lb line 12 lb test line and well the rod got snapped and I already had to call them about replacing a part in the reel. They sent me the wrong part.
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my favourite source for fishing tackle is an [url "http://www.sourcingmap.com/mariner-stand-saltwater-bait-fishing-retractile-rod-21m-p-7415.html"]HK online store[/url], i bought a rod and a reel from it, and i am loving them! maybe u can have a try!
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Welcome aboard jinnyyu and thanks for sharing with us.

What areas do you like to fish?? Do you fish fresh or saltwater?[cool]
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[black][size 3]You've gotten some pretty good advice from the others, but, let me throw in my 1/2 O'scent. [/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]You don't need to spend too much money on a servicible rod. [/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]Shakespeare Ugly Stick - buy one. I own 9 of them in different lengths and powers. They are, as the advertisements say, "nearly indestructible" - (i.e. your reel will probably melt down or your line will break before the rod fails).[/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]And, as the owner of about 100 rods (from the cheapest to the most expensive ones out there), I can assure you that the main difference in the rod's fish catching capability - would be the person holding it.[/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]However, there are a few tips to consider about the rod's construction that may help you determine which rod might be better for your situation.[/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]If you bank/shore fish and there are little or no overhead obsticles (over hanging tree branches etc.), a longer rod can allow you to cast further. I own quite a few rods in the 9 foot + catagory. They also give you much better line control and hook setting capability at longer distances. [/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]If you are fishing in closed quarters (with trees, tall brush, in a boat or other watercraft) a shorter rod will allow more manueverability, more precise casting, and it provides better leverage while fighting a fish.[/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]As far as the materials that rods are made from; Fiberglass rods are the strongest, most durable and flexible, while graphite rods are the lightest and most sensitive, but are also more fragile, and in comparison to fiberglass, they are somewhat brittle. Those rods that are composites of fiberglass and graphite fall somewhere in between in regards to qualities (Ugly Sticks are composites made mostly of fiberglass).[/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]Typically, according to conventional wisdom, here are a few useage guidlines (you will find many other opinions, based mostly on personal preference or coorporate sponsership):[/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]Fiberglass - crankbaits, trolling, live bait presentations, circle hooks, catfishing, gently lobbing baits, and any technique that requires strength, durability and does not involve a lot of sensitivity.[/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]Graphite - jigging, flyfishing, accurate or precise casting, and any other application that requires great sensitivity and feel.[/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]As far as power ratings go, here is how I personally approach them: [/size][/black]
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[black][size 3]Ultra-Light[2-4lb line, presentations less than 1/8 oz.]: Panfish, perch, small trout (smaller fish less than 2 pounds).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Light[4-8lb line, presentations less than 3/8 oz.]: Trout, white bass, bullheads, perch and other larger panfish (fish between 1-3 pounds).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Medium[8-12lb line, presentations less than 1 oz]: Catfish/Carp under 10 lbs., walleye, wipers, SMB, LMB(fish between 2-10 lbs).[/size][/black]
[black][size 3]Medium Heavy[12-25lb line, presentations less than 3 oz.]: Catfish under 30 lbs, Carp over 10 lbs, Lake Trout, Musky/pike.[/size][/black]
[size 3][black]Heavy[20-50 lb line, presentations up to 8 oz]: Catfish over 30 lbs., Salt Water or surf fishing. [/black][/size]
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[black][size 3](DISCLAIMER: these are my own guidelines and I can guarantee that it is quite possible to catch fish outside of these guesstimates.)[/size][/black]
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