Fishing Forum

Hey guys I'm still new to this so i hope I'm doing this right but i have a canoe that i fish with and I'm out for a trolling motor i have been shopping and have a couple of questions i am a good sized guy and carry some weight you could say so what size of "THRUST" would i need I've found some good buys on 30 lbs. of thrust and 36 lbs. of thrust and also would one want 12V system or gas powered now i know some lakes you cant have gas powered or what not i know that but the big Q is the thrust maybe im dumb i dont know but any help please and thank you[cool]
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I am a big guy(300) and I like my 50# on my toon, but as effiecient as a canoe is a 30# or 36# would probably be fine. I had a 15# on my canoe and even hed used a 7# before.
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I have a 28# on my pontoon, and the problem I have had to address is not being able to troll SLOW enough to fish with flies. I had to make myself a trolling plate out of plastic pipe fittings to slow it down enough to fish deep, with flies, effectively. Larger motors consume battery power more rapidly than smaller ones. Going fast, with an electric has never been a consideration. If you rely on an electric to get you out of trouble on a windy lake, it won't matter if it's 50# or 30#. You won't be going fast enough.
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I use a 30# on my canoe for trolling flies. Like Biglew said no trolling motor will get a canoe out of trouble if the wind comes up so just be careful no matter what you choose.

One thing to remember is if you do not have a flat end to your canoe then you need to buy an adaptor that allows the trolling motor to clip on to the side of the canoe. Old town sells an adaptor and it works great.

Windriver
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oh, okay hey thanks you guys thats a real big help i guess i wont be worried bout how fast just how to keep it slow lol i did not know that that small of a motor (30) would still push me to fast thats good to know so i can look into a sock or a plate to keep me slow if i need to okay thanks again!!!!!!!!!!
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I had a Minn Kota 36 for many years. Now I am not a big person, but my Hubby is 6'4" and 225. We have 11 1/2' long Pontoons, real close to a canoe.
I agree that the canoe will cut thru the water fine with a 30 or 36, the question is how long of shaft are you going to need. They both have the shortest.
My Minn Kota 36 died finally this year and has been replaced with the MAXXUM 40. Longer shaft is really nice, plus this motor does NOT consume as much power to move. The props are the same I believe.
There is a reostat control on the 40. The more you turn the faster the propeller turns, no clicks. I can set it that the blade is barely turning. Just enough to hold me in one spot. Plus I have been able to get THREE days out of one battery charge (using low power of course)
It is more money, but REALLY worth it in my opinion. Don't forget the DEEP CYCLE MARINE BATTERY, as they can take several charges where a normal battery cannot.
Plus LICENSE, any time you put a motor on ANYTHING, you need to license it.
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flygoddess, thank you so much that was very very helpful i never even thought of the LIC deal nore the length of the trolling motor thank you so much for your help..........
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I thought I'd revive an oooold thread, rather than start a new one.

I'm starting to look at trolling motors, but I have one big question:

is it possible to switch the handle around?

I want to put it on the back of my pontoon, not between my feet. But, I want it to pull me backwards.

Also, by doing this, I'm thinking I should be able to steer (somewhat) using oars or flippers. Anyone else do this / try this?

Obviously the control handle will be awkward to deal with when it's behind me, so I'm hoping I'll be able to "set it and forget it".
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Yes, you can turn it around. I figured it out over the winter and it works a whole lot better. I have the set up just like you described. It works better. I just wish I could steer better with my feet out of the water. I just end up going in circles. It looks as if I am a clown in the circus.
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Yes the handle can be removed and put back on at 180 degrees. That gives you the ability to turn it on and let it drag you backwards. You can steer with your feet, I find that is the best. I have been also running mine forward. I turn the handle so it is pointing backwards and the motor goes forward. I then drop the oars in the water going forward and run it that way. I get about .4 MPH faster out of it this way. There is less drag with my feet and legs out of the water. I only do this going into the sturgeon hole. For trolling I run backwards.
Next you will want a on off switch. I use this one and it works great.
Ron

http://www.amazon.com/T-H-Marine-Foot-Co...oot+switch
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Remove bolt that attaches head unit to shaft. Turn 180deg. Stick bolt back in.
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BUT, be very careful to make sure all wires are out of the way. Like an Ice Pick. I believe Idahopanfish had a problem with a wire shorting out from this.

To add to this, with a trip to Radio Shack or a similar shop, you can take the head off completely. I did this with a Minn Kota 30. Small metal box, a radio knob and wire ribbon. The controls sit right beside me. Steer with finned feet.


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Thanks everyone for the quick answers!
Ron & FG, those modifications are great ideas. I was wondering about making a wired remote that could be close at hand. I have plenty of wire loom left over from auto mods, I plan to run the wires thru that and tie it up to the framework.
I'll probably pick up the stuff tomorrow after I do some work on the truck.
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The first on off switch I used was a regular electrical wall switch. Then I fond out from a friend of mine that wall switches were good for 15 amps or something like that. The motor is more like 50 amps. I didn't want an on board fire to break out so I bought the one that was made for it, and they are cheep. Ron
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Yeah, Imma gunna think about that a bit. I can't decide if I want to be fancy and have the variable type like FG, or the simple "on/off" type. Sometimes simpler is better....

But, my truck grabbed my wallet this morning and didn't want to let go. So my trolling motor money is gone. Again. LoL- I need to spend it faster next time before it gets re-allocated.

In the mean time... how much pressure is put on the motor mount, really?
I was thinking about just slapping together a 2x4 frame around the basket area on back, attaching it to the framework with some of these little buggers, and using that for a motor mount.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Stron...fXmxm3DKJI
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