Fishing Forum

Hi all just bought a ODC 420 and I am looking to add some rod holders and accessories to it. What is the most common size of PVC used in building holders ect. Thanks for all your input.
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[cool]Welcome aboard. Congratulations on joining the dark side. You should enjoy your 420.

Most of us use the 1" PVC for rod holders. If your rod handles are 1" outside diameter, they will fit fine in the schedule 20 PVC tubes, which are thinner walled than the schedule 40. The same 1" fittings will work on both types.

You have probably seen examples of some of the designs we have posted in the past. I just got through making a new design, using 1/2" PVC for the main part of the rod holder, and then adaptor tubes...1/2" to 1" to install the rod tubes. See the attached pics.

I have had it out a couple of times now and it works great.

Here is a link I posted a while back on making a 4 tube rod holder.
[url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=262789;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread"]http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=262789;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread[/url]


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Okay, in picture #2. The yellow cord...is it tied onto some rings? Kind of hard to see how you have the top connected. Then what is the black bungie holding...the top portion on the bottom?
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[quote flygoddess]Okay, in picture #2. The yellow cord...is it tied onto some rings? Kind of hard to see how you have the top connected. Then what is the black bungie holding...the top portion on the bottom?[/quote]

[cool][#0000ff]I did not want to scare anybody, so I omitted some of the details. The new model is actually a two piece "modular" setup. I attach the bottom piece by lashing the top part to the two D rings below the pocket. Then, the bottom is bungeed to two of the D Rings on the bottom, used for attaching back pack straps. The bottom part stays put and then the top part snaps onto it. The short black bungee is just insurance against the two parts coming apart. Not likely. It fits tightly. Then, it comes off to reduce bulk when I pack up the tube. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Very solid on the couple of outings I have had it on.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You should see a couple of the other models I have been playing with..."swept wing" jobs with the tubes angled backward and staggered to give each reel more room. See attached.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I like the way the tubes keep the rods swept back out of the way, but they are harder to load and unload the rods. Potential for dropping a rod if you are not careful.[/#0000ff]
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Okay, so I did understand[laugh]
If it were me. I would prefer the straight ones. Your poles are far enough apart, and I see it easier to pull one out.
The Staggered looks a little scary[shocked]
Maybe if they were more a FAN like, back one straight out back and low, next slightly out the side/back and a little higher, next, a little more out the side/back and a little higher.
Like this:

But then Mine are 9'[laugh]
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Nice I appreciate all the help you are so graiciously handing out. I was looking through some of the old picture pages and was looking at the apron s & trays one. Do you use a nogahyde protector inside your tubes?
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[cool][#0000ff]I no longer use protective aprons...inside or outside. The modern tubes, like my SFC, have much of the front end covered in tough PVC coating. And, with the rigid aprons I use, there is very little exposed surface.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]However, in the olden days, when I used round tubes, I almost always used either an apron draped over the front or tucked inside, between the cover and air chamber. And it helped reduce the number or spine holes I got in my tubes.[/#0000ff]
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TubeDude, I really like the design. I like how the majority of the rack is "raised", allowing shorter rod tubes. I used longer rod tubes to keep my rods out of the water, which I don't love.

I now have this irritating urge to build yet another rod rack (and I've only had my tube for about 3 months).

Thanks. :-P
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Are your rigid aprons just some lids for storage totes? Seems like an easy fit
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[quote Big_Mernie]Are your rigid aprons just some lids for storage totes? Seems like an easy fit
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[cool][#0000ff]I first came up with the concept of using rigid apron "sushi boards" about 2002...after getting my first Super Fat Cat. For some reason the Outcast line just does not provide good aprons. Wimpy wisps of mesh that get in the way more than they provide helpful surfaces for catching line or holding gear while you tinker with it.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]TubeBabe tried the first one I made and she would not give it back to me. So, I made another one and we have both been using them since. I have gone through many different lids and other materials, always trying to find the ultimate. The good news is that almost anything will work. Some things better than others.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]As you correctly observe, the lids from plastic storage containers are my customary source of new rigid aprons. But, quite a few tubers have also cut out the bottom of one of these containers, to form an apron with raised sides (See the pic of Lloyd's Rigid Apron). The only thing you need to be sure of is to drill some small drainage holes around the inside edges to allow water and fish fluids to drain out.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]There are also a lot of ways to fasten these aprons to the top of your craft. A lot depends on the design of your tube and where you have D rings...if at all. Some open front tubes don't have D rings at the top front, where you need to attach the front of the apron. You can fix that with epoxy and a D ring or loop attached to some strapping material. Or, you can just lash a loop of nylon rope around the front as you air up the tube.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]On my most recent models, I run a short length of 3/8" PVC tube through the top edges of the apron and thread bungee cord through the tube. I attach carabiner clips to attach to the D rings. The tubing provides extra width to help the apron stay propped up on the tube rather than slipping down inside.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The best size lids to look for are 18" by 24". The seating area down inside most tubes is about 19". You may have to cut and smooth the edges in places to get the right fit for you and your craft.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The last picture shows how handy the rigid aprons are for controlling fish...and to provide a quick measure.[/#0000ff]
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Dude Nice Fish, I think it is really a NO brainer to make a rigid apron. My next step is to pump up the ODC 420 and see what she looks like. It has been raining here in Omaha since Saturday so I have not had it out yet. Sorry to be such a noob but do you use regular 2 part epoxy for the extra d-rings on the front? I just don't want to mess up my hard earned toy, protection is key and I think that the Sushi board is as sweet as a pixie stick. Once again I can't thank you enough for your time and help, I will post some pics as I progress with my tube!
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[cool][#0000ff]There are a lot of adhesives that will work. I think I might recommend that you use Aquaseal. It bonds to all tube materials well, and makes a flexible connection that is waterproof and holds up under a lot of sunshine exposure. You should have a tube of that around anyway, for potential punctures on either your tube or waders.[/#0000ff]
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Thanks dude! Quick question do you use the rain or shine PVC cement when building your rigs or just the basic stuff. Plumbing is my one downfall as far as home repair goes so I don't have a clue about this stuff, and I would hate to loose my gear from not making my holders with the right stuff?

What is your secret?
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[cool][#0000ff]There are several kinds of the PVC cement, with different colors. I use the gold label stuff which is clear. Works fine and makes a much cleaner installation without having to wipe up every bit of the leftovers to get a neat fit.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]That being said, when I am working on a new design I usually put it together with screws until I am sure I want it a certain way. (see picture) I first fit everything together tightly and then drill a small pilot hole on each joint and run in a 1/2" machine screw. Often that it enough to hold the whole thing together forever...without cement.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]When glueing PVC for rod holders, etc., you do not need to worry about passing inspections or being able to hold 1000 PSI pressure, as you do when fitting it for plumbing applications. Just use the brush in the can to apply a good layer to one part of the joint, stick the two pieces together and quickly line them up. That stuff grabs fast. It will be done in only a few seconds. Use a paper towel to wipe up any residue around the edges and go on to the next joint.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]It really does pay to measure twice and cut once, and then to fit everything together and remeasure before you glue. Easy to mess up or overlook something...even if you are experienced.[/#0000ff]
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how do you like your odc 420 just ordered one and wanted to see how it is.
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I have only had it a week and have not put it on the water. It has rained all week and I did not have the time today. I am very very pleased with the overall construction and appearance of the tube. I am a big dude and I feel comfortable just sitting in it during mock up. I bought a creek co uboat 2000 combo, took it out of the box and took it right back for this one. I still need to build a rod rack for it and will post pics when I am done. I am hoping to hit the water over memorial day weekend. I did find out that the cheap coleman hand pump from walmart does not fit the boston valves. I need to go out and get one from Cabelas that fits right. People have said buy a cheap one, but I found out the hard way that is not true. For the price I think it is a great buy, but this is my first tube. Good luck and happy fishing!
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You did good for your first tube. I actually worked "up" to the ODC 420, I have had three other tubes over the years and I'm really happy with it. I really like the PVC bottom, if nothing else it makes me feel more confident when I rub against a submerged tree or other brush unexpectedly.

One tip, I have heard people mention storing things behind the seat, but I tried it and the rear area fills up with a couple of inches of water. If you want to store anything back there you need to find a way to elevate it a little.
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[cool][#0000ff]Seems like everybody has to learn the hard way that those handy little storage areas are not waterproof. If you need dry storage, get a river runners' dry bag...or find one of those plastic storage containers that will shove down into the available space. See pic.[/#0000ff]
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Thanks TD, that's a perfect. Simple and cheap. I have a tendency to come up with complicated and expensive solutions and overlook the obvious.[]
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Thanks ODB I can't wait to get it on the water. I really like the design and the materials used. I am glad to hear the "confidence" part about bumping trees and such I am sure there has been times when you have held your breath after hitting or brushing some foreign object.

I like TD's storage box way cheaper than the dry bag I was looking at. Much like you I have big dreams, and love to by gear for the hell of it. If your going to do it , do it right!!!

I will post pics soon of mods and maiden voyage and most importantly some fish

Later
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