Fishing Forum

[cool][#0000ff]Okay, so I have posted a lot more pics on pimpin' tubes than toons. I am guilty of being slanted toward the tubing side of the ledger. So sue me.[/#0000ff]

[#0000ff]Over the past couple of months I have helped a few tooners try to get their craft set up with rod holders, sonar and such. Always a challenge because each toon has a different frame and you always have to consider the path of the oars and how they will be stowed while not in use. There is also always the considerations for the angler being right or left handed, what tackle they prefer using...or taking...and whether or not there will be an electric motor in the mix. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]A couple of the toons I set up with rod racks similar to what I use on tubes...with the bungee attachments and all that. They work fine, but I have been tempted to try using the frame more for firmly attaching permanent bases, into which you can insert tubes or PVC ram mounts or whatever.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Recently Wildcat94 fished with us and observed our tricked out tubes. He began lusting after having some "mods" added to his Trout Unlimited Colorado toon. Can you say "begging, groveling and pleading"?[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]After a joint trip to Utah Lake, he left his pride and joy at my Tubatorium (garage) and I was able to really analyze the layout of the frame and plot how to best put a system together for him. Once he agreed to allowing me to drill small pilot holes in the frame, to attach PVC Ts, I got the project under way.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]As you will note in the attached pics, the whole concept is to shape 1" PVC connectors to fit their assigned spots, and to screw them down into permanant position on the frame. Then PVC tubes are cut and shaped for the intended useage, but are not glued into the holders. They can be removed when not in use and easily repositioned while fishing.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]1" Schedule 20 PVC is not expensive. But, some of the connectors can be more costly. I used the "Cross" fittings to cut two base mounts instead of cutting them all out of single T connectors. You only need about 1/3 of the 1" width of the connectors since they do not fit flush with the frames anyway. Too much left on them sticks out and presents a potential hazard to lines, etc.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]After cutting the base mounts from the connectors, I used a rotary tool (Dremel) to round the corners and smooth off all rough spots and sharp edges. Then, I drilled small pilot holes, just slightly smaller in diameter than the size 8 phillips head machine screws. I used 3/4" screws for connecting the PVC to the metal frame...and 1/2" for reinforcing any PVC connections.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]When the PVC dust settled (all over me), I had whupped up a pretty efficient design. I had installed 3 vertical rod tubes at the right rear, inside the pontoon. Bryce is a left-handed caster and wanted them there. But...OOPSIE...he found out that they were in the way of making a right turn with his electric motor. So, I installed 4 more tube bases on the left side. They are still out of the way of all but the most spastic casts on his left side. And, the bases on the other side converted into other features...like a rotary net holder that was out of the way of the motor. And he can still use them for rods when he goes out under oar power alone and does not have the motor.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I also added a "working rod" holder on his left (rod arm) side...to prop up his active rod while dealing with a fish, re-rigging or whatever. Saves a lot of hassle.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Next, I added "bait rigger" rod holders to both front sides...to hold rods while dragging bait or drifting for walleyes...or whatever. These hold the rods out away from the toon, and at just the right angle to apply pressure on biting fish without them being able to take the rod from the holder. They also include my new plastic line clip feature...the bottom handles from plastic spoons, taped to the tube. You put a loop of line under these, with the bail open on your reel. When a fish pops the line from the clip it can take line off the spool until you wake up and set the hook. The ONLY way to fish minnows for catfish.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I also set up a two station "tool rack". One holder was heat formed with a heat gun to hold a special pair of fisherman pliers securely. The other holds a "customized" pair of lip grippers...both right under the arch in the frame that holds the right oar.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]One of the things Bryce likes best was the installation of the 1/2" PVC "ram mount" for his Humminbird sonar. Of course I also set it up for the quick on and off rotary transducer mount too. He giggles a lot when he remembers the heavy 1" PVC setup he had before.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]He plans to paint all of the white stuff black. That's cool and classy. I tried to talk him into adding some Samoan war canoe designs, to match the "ink" on his body. But...we shall see.[/#0000ff]
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Holy Crap...you drilled the heck out of that frame. And I was worried about drilling two holes in my lean bar for a rod holder.
Allot of thought there.
Why do you call the Sonar connection a RAM mount? A RAM mount is two ball mounts of different attachment shapes, with a thumb screw tubular clamp. They can go in any direction.

The poles out the back is a good idea[]
Is he left handed, or does it matter?
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[cool][#0000ff]I did some testing a long time ago on how many random holes I could drill in a piece of tubing before it weakened substantially. As long as the holes are small and not in a straight line...around the frame tubing...they are virtually unnoticeable in terms of strength of the tube.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I refer to my "RAM" mount with quotes. It is not a true RAM mount, but accomplishes the same thing. The PVC joints are not glued and move smoothly. It is an instant install of the sonar display and rotates easily left to right and up and down to provide whatever adjustment you want. Costs a lot less too.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Bryce casts left handed, thus the original mount on the right side. But, with the rods being well inside the outside edge of the pontoons, there is virtually no interference in his casting...as long as he doesn't get excited during a wiper boil.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The motor mount on the Colorado is to the right of the center line on the back basket/platform. That is why he has problems steering to the right with an electric motor when the rod tubes are loaded on the right side. No problem with them being on the left.[/#0000ff]
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I wasn't concerned with weakening the frame. I am sure it would take allot more to do that from my old motorcycle days.
I just have a problem putting any kind of hole in my frames, just me, but then my frame are a little $.

Nice job on the sonar.

Basically my set up but probably cost less than the tax on mine...LOL
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I like the ideas you have. Since I saw you last and showed you what I was planning a few things have changed. I also have a nicer motor mount that I am attaching to the rack. I hopefully should have it completed this week and I will post pics for you. Now about the tool rack how did you get the heat form to work for the pliers. I have been thinking how I can do that. Also have a pair of lip grippers and looking at a collapsible net as well.
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[cool][#0000ff]It is easy to shape PVC with heat. I used to just hold it over a stove burner, rotating it until it softened enough to reshape with a couple of pairs of pliers. But now I use a cheap heat gun I bought at Harbor Freight. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You can form almost any crazy thing you can thing of with PVC. It softens at a fairly low temperature and then you can work with it to push it into the shape desired. You just have to hold it in place until it cools enough to keep the new shape.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]To make the pliers holder, I first cut two rod grooves into the tube. The pliers fit in those okay, but were still loose. So, I put the heat gun on the top two or three inches and rotated it until I could easily squeeze the ends together...and before it melted and dripped. Then I just jammed the pliers down inside...stretching and forming the sides...and blew on it to cool it down. Piece of cake. The final touch was some forming and smoothing with the Dremel tool.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]With the Lip Grippers, I made the groove just slightly narrower than the width of the finger holds on the gripper. Then, a bit wider at the bottom. The end result was a holder that let the gripper "snap" into place at the bottom, holding firmly against loss. But, it is just wide enough and flexible enough that you can insert and retrieve the grippers when needed.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Anxious to see how you get your new system put together. It is a challenge without the extensive frame system of most pontoons.[/#0000ff]
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Hey Td can you show a close up of the bait rigger holder, I havve been using the paper clip but this sounds better.
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[quote idahopanfish]Hey Td can you show a close up of the bait rigger holder, I havve been using the paper clip but this sounds better.[/quote]

[cool][#0000ff]Here ya go...fresh off the camera...just for you. The white plastic of the handle is a bit difficult to see next to the white PVC, but you can at least see the shadow outline. You get the "Picture"?[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You can break off the spoon, fork or knife blade from almost any plastic utensil. Tape it to the top surface of your rod holder tube. I use white duct tape, but you can use anything that will hold it. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I like to leave a couple of inches of the plastic protruding out of the tape. When the fish are finicky, you tuck the line barely under the front edge of the plastic. If you are dragging bottom and don't want the line to keep popping, move it back further, for greater tension.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You are right. It is better. And you can set and reset it with one hand when you get good.[/#0000ff]
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You do some fine work TD. Can you come to my
house and help aroud a little ,please.

Peter
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[cool][#0000ff]Sorry. I don't do windows...except on my computer. And you don't EVEN want to see me in my little French maid outfit. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You're on your own.[/#0000ff]
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[quote TubeDude][cool][#0000ff]Sorry. I don't do windows...except on my computer. And you don't EVEN want to see me in my little French maid outfit. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You're on your own.[/#0000ff][/quote]

ha ha ha ha
I take your word for it. []
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Thanks TD it does look slicker than the paperclips.
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Here's a few of my ideas

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[inline "IMG_3801 (Small).JPG"]

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[inline "IMG_3796 (Small).JPG"]

[inline "IMG_3789 (Small).JPG"]
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[cool][#0000ff]Looking good. You have been busy...and creative. I hereby bestow upon you an honorary degree of Phd in PVC.[/#0000ff]
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thanks Pat for pimping my toon... All of the pvc add ons work and operate amazing. The black painted pvc looks nice and i always have boaters stopping by and checkin it out! You da man.. thanks again for helping


TubeDude knows his stuff and tricked me toon
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[cool][#0000ff]Glad to help out and glad you like it.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]We gotta meet up on the water soon so I can get some pics of the paint job.[/#0000ff]
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Looks great Michael.
Where did you get that pipe clamp???

Peter
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TubeDude, you should start a custom tube/'toon shop. It would be like one of those places where you take your car to get rims, pro audio, or custom exhaust. You could have a bunch of crazy tubes and 'toons parked out front.

Maybe I will install neon lighting along the inside of my tube so it will cast a glow on the water during low light. Maybe some 15" subwoofers.

I can see it now..
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[cool][#0000ff]No thanks. I have all the (unpaid) work I can handle. Everybody knows us floatation fisherfolk are cheap. No money in it.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have thought about doin' some crazy neon. Gave it up when I figured it might only attract bugs...or the wrong kind of "guys".[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I did try custom paint jobs. Did some shark jaws on my tube and purple flames on TubeBabe's ride. See the pics.[/#0000ff]
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"wrong kind of guys", LOL!

Seriously, I'm lovin' the shark paint job, especially how the valve falls in place perfectly for an eye. What kind of paint, and how did it hold up?
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