I recently took vacation and got back into fly fishing after 20 years. I have been looking at getting some new fly gear as mine is mostly junk. I have a few questions for the avid fly flingers. Is there a difference in the fly rods that are 2 piece vs. 4 piece. I will fish rivers from the green down to little creeks. Is there a general weight ( 4-weight to 7-weight) that is good for these applications. I mainly tried dry flies and a few nymphs. Any other help would be appreciated.
Aaron
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personally i believe 5 weight is the best all around weight. i would ask scruffy or dryrod, they really know their stuff. anyway i have both a 2 piece and a 4 piece, and naturally my 2 piece is alot more taunt, and i use it for windy days or when im flinging big flies. i use the 4 piece when i need delicate presentations or when i fish the dream stream in CO useing fine tippets where i do reverse hook sets. after useing one, i will never use anything else but the helios from orvis. if i could afford it i would get the new winston but thats way out of an enlisted guys price range. anyway i hope dryrod chimes in here. if your looking for a fishing buddy ill be chasing anything that swims in the creeks and rivers in utah when i get there on the 18th of september.... 10 years overseas is enough for me!
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If you are going to get into it and you do- you will have more than 1 rod- 5 wt is probably the most versatile but I would feel lost with out a 3 wt and a 7 wt ( though the 7 wt isn't used much in Utah). With the new tech in FF over the last 10 years there isn't a ton of difference between a 2 piece and a 4 piece if you are going with a good quality rod. Years ago there was. I still like 2 piece and I pack a lot. How much money are you looking at spending.
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I am no Scruffy or Dryrod, but been guiding, teaching and ff for allot of years.[
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There is no difference in a multi piece rod these days. If you want to get technical, then an ODD number pieces is suppose to be the way to go as it allows better placement of the guides.
It is getting harder these days to get a two piece except in the inexpensive and beginner kits.
Multi piece are the wave of the future as they are easier to transport, just like the float tubes going with inflatable seats.
As far as "my 2 piece is alot more taunt" that has nothing to do with the number of pieces but the taper of the rod.
You need to find what action/taper suits your casting and I firmly believe, finding the right action/taper rod will help you to progress much faster.
A warranty at this stage of the game is a good idea also.
I start people out on a MEDIUM ACTION, 8'6" or 9' five weight as it is the best all around choice.
We all have our other preference with mine being 2, 4, 6 weights as I have two 3's and never use them.
To me...the order of things that are important:
1. Presenting the fly correct
2. Right fly
3. right leader and tippet
4. RIGHT FLY LINE
the rest is preference to me, but the more expensive rods are expensive for a reason. Research (right action/taper) and better hardware.
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sorry flygoddess, forgot to drop your name in there also, whats wrong with me!
oh and here is the winston i was talking about, its not the MX, but its on my wish list:
http://www.winstonrods.com/boronIIt.html
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the "t" is an awesome medium action rod. I have a couple BIIx, an LT and the JWF. Sweet rods.
Oh, and they are 3 piece and 5 piece...hummmm[
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I understand the right presentation, and fly, but what is the correct fly line and taper. I will probably get my fly set up from cabela's. I have some gift certificates that I can use. I will be spending about 250 to 300 dollars for the complete combo. I was looking at the TFO combo's and the cabelas brand combo's. do you have any imput on those.
aaron
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i have one of cabelas 4 piece 8 weights that i take pike fishing. zero complaints from me, was well worth the price. the one thing i did not like at all was the line and backing on it, it was crap, so i got some new stuff and was happy. it has a fighting butt on it, and does quiet well for the abuse i have put it through.
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Fly line can make or break a rod. Don't skimp on the line.
I like the Cabela brand rods, and TFO are great for the price.
If you are talking about TROUT fishing, I would stay away from the FAST action as you will be working harder.
Fast action rods are designed for WIND and big flies.
Slower action rods teach you the correct way to cast and make you pause and wait for the load up.
That is why I think a medium action is a good action.
I can't tell you which of the Cabela rods fit that but LANCE can and the Professional TFO is a really nice action.
Back to line, I probably use my W.W.Griggs Vintage (a $70. rod) on a regular basis, but I have it loaded with either WINDCUTTER II, SELECTIVE TROUT II, or Sharkskin and it is a joy to cast.
Don't skimp on the line. Consider DT also in that it is two lines in one.
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I just bought a 4 piece 8'6" 5 wt Redington Fly cast 2 and have absolutely no complaints. It is a fast action rod and took some time to get used to but I love it now. I've never been able to get the distance like I can now. Look into them, I honestly think it is the quality of a sage but a third of the price.
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Don't forget the Echo rods my buddie bought a Echo Carbon over the weekend. Let me tell ya for the price what a sweet rod. Im more use to a fast action rod I fish a Redinton cps and even with me whipping the rod around I was able to almost hit everything I aim at.
As mention earlier for your "go to" rod you probably want to stick with a 5 wt rod. As far as length goes in my opinion accuracy is more important than distance I find shorter rods give you more accuracy but then again im no lefty krehl. I suggest a 8' 6".
FG is right dont skimp on a good line, a good line will last you years and can mean the difference between frustration or fish fun day. I use cortland 555 great line but casting my buddies echo laced with the new SA's Sharkskin felt like could get the same distance more accuracy with less effort. ( still think he should have gone with a more expensive rod and cheaper line but to each our own)
Are you looking just for the rod or do you need waders, boots, vest and accessories In this sport 300 bucks can go real fast. [laugh]
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[quote sickday]what is the correct fly line and taper.
aaron[/quote]
For general use get a Weight Forward (WF) 5WT line
All that meant is the weight is built into the first 15 or 20 feet of the line.
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Remember to get a reel with more than one spool. This will give you more options as well. I always get two, one for sinking line and one for floating. If you are into flinging for bass, get one for a bass taper as well.
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Back to line, I probably use my W.W.Griggs Vintage (a $70. rod) on a regular basis, but I have it loaded with either WINDCUTTER II, SELECTIVE TROUT II, or Sharkskin and it is a joy to cast.
Don't skimp on the line. Consider DT also in that it is two lines in one.[/quote]
Get a DT- You will then get twice the "air " mileage and you aren't going to be casting over 30 ft anyway.
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I agree that a 5 wt is probably the most versatile weight of rod. But now that I am along in my progression as a fly fisherman, I don't have much desire for my 5 wt. Don't get me wrong, I love that thing. But I wish it was a 6 wt. There aren't many rivers around Utah that can't be fished with a 3 or 4 wt.
I currently have a 3 wt, a 5 wt and a 8 wt. But I wish I had a 3 wt and a 6 wt for my general fishing. As I said, there aren't many rivers around that I couldn't fish with my 3 wt, and the one's that are in need of something bigger, a 6 wt isn't too much. I just wish I had a 6 wt for stillwater fishing and throwing big streamers on rivers. Something with a little more backbone than my 5 wt offers.
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I agree a 6 is a must have. In fact the BIG fish I have landed were on a 6 and not my 8, however the 8 is perfect for grass carp in the 30+" range.
I see more a 2 weight for like the Uintas and a 4 weight for the local rivers, but the right 5 weight can be gold.
I mean I have some real top line 5 weights that are perfect anywhere. The full flex Far and Fine can make a 2" fish feel like a whale and the same with my Bamboo. But the LT and the JWF make it such a joy on any size fly or fish. All are 5 weights. Then the 10' 5 weight for windy days, makes mending simple.
Just me, like I said and I do have some nice 3 weights,....just see the 4 doing so much more.
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Utah has very no big rivers where you fish for trout. Even the Green is a medium size river on the Western U. S scale of things. Just my opinion but a 5 wt is overkill 99.9% of the time in Utah. So if this first rod you're going to be fishing mostly Utah I'd suggest a 3 or 4 wt 8' to 8'6" rod. I routinely use a 8' 6'' 4wt on the Green below Fontanelle and it casts big streamers well into the wind and handles big trout that fight much hardier than those below FG. If you start fishing out of state big rivers, salmon or steelhead later that is the time to look for a 6-8 wt rod.
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Riverdog, do you really feel a 5 weight is overkill? I think of him being relatively new and it is all about landing and releasing the fish as quickly as possible.
I agree a 20" Trout on a 4 weight is a blast, but it is killing the fish.
I played a trout for 15 minutes on Strawberry. I decided to try my .....ready for this.....3 weight rigged with an Elkhair to the swirls of rising fish.
It was the coolest thing. I watched the swirl move closer and closer till BAM. That 3 weight and 4lb tippet were no match.
In fact I think a 5 weight is light for Strawberry.
I do use a four on the Middle Provo, but the Lower is my 5 and a 5 on rivers I am not sure of the size.
I agree you can land a fish with anything...there is a plaque with a 24" Trout that was landed on a 1 weight, but lighter gear will kill a C&R.
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I must say a 3 or 4 wt would be a nightmare of frustration for a beginner for anything but small dry flys. For rod control,hook setting,casting in wind,nymphing,streamer fishing,float tubing and getting distance in a cast. 5 or even 6 are better for performance. Having a good time is more about the rod performance than how much the fish bend the rod. 3 or 4 wt. is the perfect second rod for our area.
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