Just picked up a cheap ($15) motorguide stealth 300v, only problem with it is the control switch died and the guys I got it from converted it to a one speed on or off unit. I had seen on here that someone had wired in a radio switch to the front of the toon to control the on/off and forward and reverse option, was just looking for some info to see if this was a possibility for me to attempt?
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Wow, mine was easy. I had the Minn Kota. I took the head off and counted how many wires I needed. Hubby found some Ribbon wire which was perfect.
I took the reo-stat out of the head and hot glued it to the inside of a Radio Shack box. Mine had 5 forward and 3 reverse.
Once I had it glued in the box, I made a plate out of laminated paper for the speeds and of course on and off.
With yours being just the switch, not sure what you can do other than a remote on and off only
Looks like the reo-state has been replaced.
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No worries, managed to get a min kota that had a motor issue and swaped heads so it has forward and reverse now along with a telescopic handle, got to enjoy beer and frankensteining trolling motors.
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Ok Dr I need to see photos of this. It sounds interesting.
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Started to experiment with the motor mount, but still have some work to do.
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You might want it in the middle. I tried it off to the side and you have to turn the prop to counter act. At least I did.
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I was wondering if it would be better in the center, basically starting from scratch as they didnt come with anything but frames and pontoons. I also think I will move it back a little farther.
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That could be okay. The battery you will want as close to the back of the seat as you can to help center it. Then you will be sliding the frame back and forth on the toons to find the spot where it will be level.
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You know, Pontoonman has built pontoons, maybe he will jump in here and help.
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Built pontoons? The pontoons or the frame? Or both?
Don't the pontoons take some special equipment to weld the seams?
I need to rebuild a frame. My pontoon took a short flight last fall when a tie down strap failed[frown]. It is not exactly in good alignment anymore.
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I am not sure on the actual pontoon portion, but I think he has the frames.
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FG is right on with her advice. Looking at your photo, maybe you can build some kind of battery platform from scrap plywood or 2X4 stringers and mount behind the seat. Going across the back from pontoon to pontoon high enough to be out of the water would be the strongest- to the frame or pontoon tops. You want your troll as close to center and near the seat as possible also, so you don't have to slide your frame so far forward. You can use 4 ratchet straps to secure the pontoons to the frame if you don't have secure "D" rings sewn into the pontoons or other secure method. You will have to steer with your fins with the motor behind you in a fixed straight position because it is difficult to rig anything to turn the motor head directly behind you. You can also rig the motor in front of you to get easy steering but then it will be blocking you from the front. The only other option would be a small rudder down low in front, maybe.
I don't build inflatable pontoons, but I have made 2 boats with polystyrene pontoons. I have made my own frames for existing pontoons from galvanized pipe, threaded rod and EMT (thinwall conduit) tubing. Basically use a EMT bender to make 4 curved pontoon tops to fit your pontoon.
Drill a hole in the center of each EMT curve for your 2 threaded rods that go aligned with the top of the the pontoons and use 8 nuts to bolt together to get a set of 2 curved tops, one for each pontoon. I drilled 4 pipe caps and ran the threaded rod thru them, used 8 nuts to secure at about 28" distance. The galvanized pipes screw into these caps to complete the square of the frame. Or you can drill directly into the galvanized pipe to do the same thing if you don't want to use caps. Caps just make breakdown of the frame easier. A 1"X12"X30" 3/4" (or larger) plywood is then bolted to the square of the frame across the galvanized pipe for mounting a standard boat seat. I used "J" hooks but long muffler type clamps could also be used. You don't want to drill the galvanized pipe inside the ends because that would weaken the stringers. There are different ways to drop down the seat if it is up too high and unstable or you can just make the whole frame wider and sit up high. I used 1/2" galvanized pipe for a small 6' pontoon, but 3/4 would be better for bigger pontoons.
Pon
[quote flygoddess]That could be okay. The battery you will want as close to the back of the seat as you can to help center it. Then you will be sliding the frame back and forth on the toons to find the spot where it will be level.[/quote]
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