i have a spinning reel that the drag is starting to stick then when it does "bust" loose it is very jerky any suggestions how to fix this problem ? also how do you put the @#$% line on so it dont twist ?
chris
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[cool]Two potential problems with the drag. #1, poor quality. Quantum and some of the other lower price reels do not have good drag systems. The composition of the drag washers is "low end" and the adjustablity of the tension spring is not precision. The result is a "stuttering" or sticking drag. You cannot afford those things when fighting large fish on light line. A lot of big fish are lost because of failing drags. That's one of the reasons I am moving toward using mostly baitcast...even for light stuff.
The other potential is plain old wear. If your reel has had some hard use, and the drag has been worked a bit, you may need to replace the drag washer assembly. Do not lubricate the drag washers. That defeats the purpose and some petroleum compounds break down some washers.
Another thing you can do to help prolong the life of your drag system, and to minimize choppy drag performance is to totally release the settings on your drags after each trip. If you have a rear drag system on your reels, this is simple. Just twist it a turn or so to take the pressure off the drag washers. Front drag reels take a bit more effort, but the smoother performance on your drag, on the next big fish, will be worth it.
AVOIDING LINE TWIST. Putting line on a spinning reel is different than spooling up a bait caster. With the latter, you want the line spool to feed line off directly as it rotates. When you put line on a spinning reel, lay the line spool on one side and reel the line off so that it comes off in loops, around the edges. Reel a few turns of line on your reel and then check the line. If it is getting kinky, flip the line spool over and reel the line on from the other side. It has to come off just the opposite of the way it goes on your reel.
Most of the fishing pros...the ones on the tournament...have little rituals they go through whenever they respool or "top shot" fill their reels. After winding the line on PROPERLY, they either go out in their boat and let out a hundred yards or so...without any lure on the end. They drag the line behind the boat as they rewind the line back on the spool. Some of them tie a swivel on the end of the line, and then hook the swivel to something and back off a distance longer than their longest cast. When they rewind the line back on the reel, under tension, the swivel helps take the twists out.
One of the biggest mistakes made by anglers who favor spinning gear is to keep turning the reel handle when a fish is either running line out, or sulking and cannot be moved by reeling. Every time you turn the bail, with no line coming in, you put another twist in the line. When you finally get the fish in, you spend the nect ten minutes trying to work out all the twists and kinks in the line.
One of the other things you can do to reduce "boil off" problems after respooling a spinning reel is to avoid over filling the spool. You do not have to have the line right out to the edge of the spool. Leave a bit of spool edge visible. You will cast just as well, but will have fewer battles with those frustrating loops of line.
On a cost-per-trip basis, quality fishing line is a small investment in your overall enjoyment. Buying cheap line, and not taking care of it...or leaving it on the reel for too long, without replacing it, will result in stiff springy line that is a challenge to fish with, and can cost a lot of breakoffs on fish that were not too big for the line.
That's my nickle's worth (2 cents, with inflation)
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as far as that @#$ drag i'll look into fixing it somehow now for line twist i've tried everthing you suggested and i still get line twist i guess its just the nature of the beast that is why i pretty much stick with bait casters myself one more thing where are the drag washers on a spinning reel
chris
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[cool]In a front drag reel, they are usually in the spool, itself. You undo the drag adjustment all the way and lift the center shaft up and out. Maybe a good cleaning in a mild soap solution will help. Lotsa grit and grime can get in those sensitive areas.
On a rear drag system, you have to open the casing of the reel, and you will usually find the drag assembly right at the bottom of the reel, around the shaft. If you use oil lubricants, instead of the silicone gels, the lube tends to flow down into the drag washers and you have to clean them up more often.
On the line twist, PM me with the brand and size line you are buying. That may be a consideration. There is a balance between spool size, line size, "limpness" and a few other factors that can contribute to the frustration you are experiencing.
Finding the right line is an eternal quest among fishermen. It's kinda like the makeup thing with the ladies. Drawers full of stuff we never use anymore...but was once the ultimate solution to all our problems.
I have gone through "field testing" (water testing) just about every kind of line you can think of. Depending on the kind of fishing you prefer, you might want to go more for limpness and castability. If you fish in heavy snags, or for fish with line-abrading teeth, you might want to sacrifice some of the softness for better abrasion resistance. It is rare to find THE ONE TRUE LINE that solves all problems and is still affordable.
If I give up on a line, I do not throw it out. I keep it for "spool fillers". In fresh water it is extremely rare that you will actively fish a whole spool of line. Only if you are fishing for big fish that can make long runs, should you worry about filling your whole reel with the high priced top quality stuff. In most cases, you will not regularly use more than sixty yards of line. That means you can build up the spool with line that is GOOD...but not the line you have found to be better.
Using your preferred line as the last 60 to 100 yards on your spool is known as "top shotting". It is a way to save money, by not spooling the whole reel with a more costly line, and it is also good insurance that you will replace the working portion of your line more frequently. Man. I have been fishing with guys who BRAGGED that they hadn't respooled in years. They were often the same ones who cried when they lost the big fish of the day to bad line.
You should know how to tie a good blood knot if you are going to top shot. That is the best knot for joining two lengths of monofilament of simiar size. I like to make the line ahead of the top shot about one size larger than the working line. In other words, I spool up with six pound, before topping off the last part with 4 #. If you tie a good knot, and a big fish runs you into your "backing", you can feel more confident than if it was the same line test, but with inferior line.
There is another thing that comes to mind too. The newer designs in reels, with the "long cast feature...with longer spools...seems to help reduce line twist and boiloff by winding the line in a criss-cross manner, rather than in tight coils, closely wrapped on top of each other. My opinion.
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thanks for the reply dude when i get home i'll have to take that reel apart and see whats what not sure what brand line i have on there but i'll probley be buying more it went on very good with no line twist at all i threw that question in because of past problems
chris
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[cool]Just don't post the question "What is the best line". You could start a war with that one.
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aquaman,
TubeDude is right on the money. I have been fishing with openface spinning gear all of my life. Like TubeDude, I have learned a few things. Along with a good cleaning of the drag system and proper adjustment, the quality of the line you buy is so important. I would also add that a high quality reel is a worth while investment. I have one reel that still works fanastic and I have been using it for over 20 years. If you take care of a quality reel, the good performance you get from it will add a lot of enjoyment to your fishing.
m
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