So, is there a way to control trolling motor on a toon
with remote control of some kind. Maybe just a off/on switch next to me..........
I think Joni got something like that going on?
Any advise would be great.
Thank you
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[cool][#0000ff]I have installed 3 or 4 of them on motorized float tubes. Great for simple on and off without having to change the setting on the motor.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I am using one by TH Marine that I order through Amazon.com. Less than $20 shipped.[/#0000ff]
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[url "http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=T+-+H+Marine%AE+Foot+Control+Switch&x=20&y=26"]LINK TO AMAZON
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A couple of other post on here also showed pictures of their motor switches. I can't seem to find them in a fast search, but basically one of them used a push button switch from radio shack, and the other used a household light switch. I think that both had waterproofed their boxes.
If all that you want is to turn the motor off or on then any on off switch that is rated for the amps of your motor should do it.
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I am guilty of putting a light switch on the pontoon. I understand they are not rated for 60 AMP. I am not sure what will happen? I like the switch that TD has I am going to have to look for that one. Ron
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[quote idahoron]I am guilty of putting a light switch on the pontoon. I understand they are not rated for 60 AMP. I am not sure what will happen? If the contacts inside the switch are too small for the current, they will get hot and could melt the switch or weld in the on position. I like the switch that TD has I am going to have to look for that one. Ron[/quote]
Hope this helps,
Pon
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I made the mistake of "under-wiring" a trolling motor. My little boat came with a fishfinder, but no battery. SO being the one of excess I am - I added a battery for the finder, then figured - what else!!!! To meet regs I added a red/green light to the bow, and a stern white-light pole. Then wired in a couple lines for front/rear bench downriggers. Added a "outlet" that keeps my car's GPS gassed up.
So to keep all these electricals under control I wired up a switch-box using a project box from Radio Shack, and switches and circuit breakers from the auto parts store.
My big mistake came in including the trolling motor wiring along with these small-wire, low amp switches. Spent an afternoon trolling the marshes south of Benson Marina. All of a sudden the fishfinder went out. Low and behold the trolling motor also shutdown. I just thought I'd run the battery down. (that's why I picked up a battery meter so I can check now!)
Upon my return home, I opened my switch box, and found a gooey mess of melted plastic and wires. Yup, melted up the whole kit and capoodle. Good thing the whole mess didn't catch on fire! (yes THAT's why you're required to carry a fire extinguisher. Idiot insurance!)
So lesson learned - the right wire for the right job! Now I go straight from the battery - with 6 or 10 gauge wire, to a 50 amp breaker, and a $20 coupler that snaps together, so I can remove the troller (so someone doesn't steal it off the boat at Mantua or something!). It doesn't go through the switch box at all.
So yeah - check your amps, and step up to the load!!!
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That looks good TD.
Thank you everyone for your input. I think I have a good
idea now. Im just trying to get as much of info as I can
before investing ton of money into motorizing my boat.
Once again thank you.
Peter
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TD how does that switch work? is it push button or is that some kind of lever that rotates? Ron
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[cool][#0000ff]Works both ways. You can manually push the button for short bursts...or you can pull back the plastic lever bar to depress the button and stay in place as long as you want.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I set the motor position with the set screw when setting up my tube for the day's fishing...so that it runs straight backward. Then I have an extension to set the speed. Most of the time I leave it on 2 or 3, for short moves. But, if I want to move further faster I crank it over to five and click the on switch until I get there. In the tube you do all the steering with your fins...hands free.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]One of the additional benefits of having the on and off switch...at least on the tube...is that it provides protection against having the motor turn on while you are getting things set up. That happened on one of my first runs and I got some deep cuts in my hand from the prop.[/#0000ff]
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I have a light switch hooked up now and I like the ability to be able to shut it off right NOW when the fish hooks up. I am worried about the light switch at 15 amps and the motor at 60 amps. I ordered a switch like yours about 2 hours ago. I will get it after the 7th. After PON said it could go armageddon it got me a little worried. Ron
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[cool][#0000ff]My dad was an electrician and I learned a long time ago that using components not rated for the current involved could cause fires...or worse. Better to err on the side of too much than too little.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]My motor manual (30# thrust) says that it draws 30 amps at full speed. While the 15 amp switch might work for a while...at lower speeds...I would not trust it for a long run at high speeds. The wrong time to find out that you made a mistake is when you are at the far end of a long run back to the vehicle...in wind.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Bottom line is that it really is handy to have the instant kill switch.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]By the way, for those who wonder how to wire those switches, you do not need to cut both lines of your motor wires. You just cut the black wire and splice in the two ends of the switch. I used quick connectors on the ends of the cut motor wires and on the end of the switch. Then I used shrink tubing over the connections to waterproof them. (There is only tape in the attached pic) If I ever want to remove the switch or replace it the quick connects make it possible to simply reconnect the two ends of the motor wire...if you plan it right, with one male and one female connector.[/#0000ff]
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thats some good info TD as always !
Thank you
Peter
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Not armageddon, but it could get serious for ONE person. I routinely use DPDT ac switches with my troll motor because they are cheap and the dc equivalent is NOT available. My ancient minn kotas used ac switches for the same reason. You just have to watch that the current rating is not exceeded by much. Dc tends to cause an arc each time the switch is thrown, especially at higher voltages, and this causes erosion of the contact surfaces. Usually not much of an issue at 12v and when working close to the ratings. But very high currents like 60A on a 15A rating is really pushing things.
Pon
[quote idahoron]I have a light switch hooked up now and I like the ability to be able to shut it off right NOW when the fish hooks up. I am worried about the light switch at 15 amps and the motor at 60 amps. I ordered a switch like yours about 2 hours ago. I will get it after the 7th. After PON said it could go armageddon it got me a little worried. Ron[/quote]
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For me the thought of a melt down on the switch that could get western is armageddon[
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DId I mention I don't swim very well.[cool]
Ron
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[quote idahoron]For me the thought of a melt down on the switch that could get western is armageddon[
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DId I mention I don't swim very well.[cool]
Ron[/quote]
I hear what you saying. A "small" fire on any boat just
cant be good. And fire on toon or tube IS armageddon[
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Peter
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