08-22-2003, 01:46 AM
i saw a post , then forgot where it was ,
Slip bobber fishing I guess the best way to start is to assume this is new to you but you know a little about fishing. There are three main parts to a slip bobber rig. The first part being the bobber stop. There are a few types the most popular are a sliding bead, a sliding knot or some use rubber bands knotted to the line. They all do the same thing, which is to stop the line from sliding through the bobber at the depth you set them. They must also be of a size that will easily pass through the eyes on your pole. (Some ultra lights use such small eyes the bobber stop can’t pass through and can’t be used for slip bobber fishing.) The bobber stop is placed on the line first. The second part is the slip bobber. It is called a slip bobber because it is made to slip up and down the line and makes fishing any depth of water possible with a bobber. The last part of the set up is your choice of bait rigs. I will use jig heads as an example in this article but most any bait can be used with this method of fishing. So in summary the rig is made up of a bobber stop, a bobber and a jig head. The bobber is free to slide between the bobber stop and the jig head. By sliding the bobber stop up and down the line you control how deep the jig head is fished. It is important that your set up is in balance and size is critical. You want to be able to see your bobber easily, I recommend your bobber float half way submerged . This minimizes bobber drag on the fish and still gives you a good view of the bobber. For this example we are setting up to fish walleye and want our jigs six inches off the bottom and our system to be balanced. I place a bell sinker or some type of weight on my jig head and send it to the bottom. Then I adjust my bobber stop so my bobber is six inches under water. I then real up my jig remove the weigh place a leach on the jig head and toss it out. If the system is working correctly the line will slip through the bobber till it reaches the bobber stop and the jig head should be about six inches off the bottom. I would normally use two poles and would set the second line one foot from the bottom and use a crawler on the jig head. You are now slip bobber fishing. Another thing I do when slip bobber fishing is pumping the jig. I cast the bobber as far as I can, once the bobber stop is on the bobber I wait for a while. If no action I lower the rod tip and point it at the bobber, take up any slack in the line and lift the rod tip quickly, crank in about three or four turns on the reel. The resulting action binges the jig head from six inches off the bottom to about four feet off the bottom. The jig will again sink to the six-inch depth and be a little closer to the boat. Continue this method till the bobber is just over the boats edge. I like to pump the jig head up and down by the boat a few times before a recast and do not reel any line at this point. This method seems to increase my strikes and keeps me alert to bobber location and allows me to fish a range of depths. Don’t forget your other bobber and check it each time between pumps.
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Slip bobber fishing I guess the best way to start is to assume this is new to you but you know a little about fishing. There are three main parts to a slip bobber rig. The first part being the bobber stop. There are a few types the most popular are a sliding bead, a sliding knot or some use rubber bands knotted to the line. They all do the same thing, which is to stop the line from sliding through the bobber at the depth you set them. They must also be of a size that will easily pass through the eyes on your pole. (Some ultra lights use such small eyes the bobber stop can’t pass through and can’t be used for slip bobber fishing.) The bobber stop is placed on the line first. The second part is the slip bobber. It is called a slip bobber because it is made to slip up and down the line and makes fishing any depth of water possible with a bobber. The last part of the set up is your choice of bait rigs. I will use jig heads as an example in this article but most any bait can be used with this method of fishing. So in summary the rig is made up of a bobber stop, a bobber and a jig head. The bobber is free to slide between the bobber stop and the jig head. By sliding the bobber stop up and down the line you control how deep the jig head is fished. It is important that your set up is in balance and size is critical. You want to be able to see your bobber easily, I recommend your bobber float half way submerged . This minimizes bobber drag on the fish and still gives you a good view of the bobber. For this example we are setting up to fish walleye and want our jigs six inches off the bottom and our system to be balanced. I place a bell sinker or some type of weight on my jig head and send it to the bottom. Then I adjust my bobber stop so my bobber is six inches under water. I then real up my jig remove the weigh place a leach on the jig head and toss it out. If the system is working correctly the line will slip through the bobber till it reaches the bobber stop and the jig head should be about six inches off the bottom. I would normally use two poles and would set the second line one foot from the bottom and use a crawler on the jig head. You are now slip bobber fishing. Another thing I do when slip bobber fishing is pumping the jig. I cast the bobber as far as I can, once the bobber stop is on the bobber I wait for a while. If no action I lower the rod tip and point it at the bobber, take up any slack in the line and lift the rod tip quickly, crank in about three or four turns on the reel. The resulting action binges the jig head from six inches off the bottom to about four feet off the bottom. The jig will again sink to the six-inch depth and be a little closer to the boat. Continue this method till the bobber is just over the boats edge. I like to pump the jig head up and down by the boat a few times before a recast and do not reel any line at this point. This method seems to increase my strikes and keeps me alert to bobber location and allows me to fish a range of depths. Don’t forget your other bobber and check it each time between pumps.
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![[Image: Float_Stop.gif]](http://mi.lake-link.com/images/anglers/knots/Float_Stop.gif)
FLOAT STOP KNOT .
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