what is the main difference between a spey and a switch rod. Is one more versatile or better then the other.
I was lookin for one to fish the salmon area for steelhead and also maybe some lakes or somthin.
I was thinkin a 7wt what lenght do you think would be best
[signature]
Spey is bigger line weight and requires spey line which is by Grain
Switch is smaller line sizes and can be one handed or two handed (which is where the name comes from)
The act of fishing them is pretty much the same.
Plus a Spey will be longer. Switch usually 10' to 12' and spey can be up to 15'
[signature]
A caution if you go the switch route, you will still need to buy a more "spey" style line if you wish to spey cast with the switch. In other words, you cant spey cast a 7wt switch rod with a WF 7wt line.
I would go full spey for Steelhead and just use a regular 9' or 10' rod for stillwater.
[signature]
I still would like a 6wt switch.
[signature]
[quote Everet14]A caution if you go the switch route, you will still need to buy a more "spey" style line if you wish to spey cast with the switch. In other words, you cant spey cast a 7wt switch rod with a WF 7wt line.
[/quote]
BUT, you would have to modify that Spey, Skagit, Shooting head line because a switch IS a lighter rod.
The most popular line-sizes for Switch Rods are #5, #6, #7, #8. Some manufacturers also offer #4 and #9 sizes. Generally #4, #5, & #6-wights are used for trout, #7 & #8 are for steelhead, and #9 & #10 are used for salmon and saltwater much the same as single hand rods. Switch rods can also use lines that are commonly used for both single-hand and two-hand rods. Each series can lean toward single-hand or two-hand weights depending on the manufacturer.
As far as Switch over regular, If you own a 5-weight Switch Rod, you can use it to your advantage over a wide range of applications. On a certain day on a big western river, you might encounter trout sipping tiny mayfly emergers in the center of an eddy 80-feet from the closest casting position. They are far out of range of most anglers, yet they are not safe from you, because with you is your 5-weight Switch rod. Long rods allow you to fish dry flies at incredible ranges and control slack in your line with maximum authority. The long slim rod also protects fine tippets, because it will absorb shock very efficiently. A 10 1/2' to 11 1/2" rod allows you to control much more line than a standard 9' rod because it's about 20% longer. Switch rods may be the best of all "nymph" rods for: "high-stick", "indicator" and "Czech" nymphing. Your 5-weight Switch is also excellent for half-pounder and one-salt steelhead. That is only a very few examples of the diverse capabilities of one size of Switch Rod.
This is quoted from flyfishusa.com
And man, if you ever get the chance to meet and watch Dec Hogan or Marty Howard, what a treat.
[signature]
Yeah, of course. If you bought a full Spey line you would need to trim the head to effectively fish it on a switch rod. There are numerous lines out there though that are designed for switch rods and require no shortening. I use The Rio switch line on my 11' 5wt switch and it works pretty well.
for swinging flies for steelhead on the salmon though, a full Spey is a lot more effective.
[signature]
I dont have a dog in this fight as I dont own this style of rod. But who fishes "tiny mayfly emergers" "80 Feet" away?? That just seems ridiculous to me. There is no way you could even see the take in a "river eddy" 80 feet away.
[signature]
I am at the other end Ev. I have a 12' Spey with the "Windcutter". I think I will be buying a switch this year however, for the sections of the Snake. They just seem a few feet farther than I am getting with a 9'6". And I agree that Rio is right there with the line made for them.
But then, I can see that #30 at 40'.
[signature]
[size 5]
[left]I've been fishing with a 13'6 Spey for the past few years. I started out with a Skagit line. Their great for short tight casts in close quarters, pulling big flys out of deep holes. I found I really didn't need this type of line for fishing Steelhead on the Salmon. I switched to Windcutter II Spey. It turned out to be a easier cast for me and worked better for the conditions I fished. I little shorter head length, I can cast without stripping the entire length back in. Never fished with the shorter Switch Rods, but I agree with Everet you need to match your Switch Rod up with Switch Line or it will feel very underload and won't preform as well. I do like the abillity to switch out tips with the Windcutter and Skagit lines.
[left]
[left]One thing to remember most times on the Salmon you Will not need a 100' cast to get into the slot. Even on the Clearwater the tug will be at the end of your swing on a shorter slot.
[b][size 5]
[/size]
[center]
[center]SWITCH RODS
[/b][/size][font "Times New Roman,Times New Roman"][size 3][font "Times New Roman,Times New Roman"][size 3]
[left]In the past couple of years Switch rods have become very popular. Switch rods are short two handed rods/long single handed rods. The idea is that you can fish them either single handedly or two handedly, and switch between overhead and spey casts as conditions dictate. The majority of Switch rods are between 10.5 ft and 11.5 ft in length and between #5 and #8 in size.
[left]The majority of Switch rods cast better with the Spey line AFTTA standard, rather than the single handed AFTMA line standard. A #5 Switch rod will feel very underloaded with a regular WF5F trout line. Instead, look to something in the #5 spey lines to match.
Line companies offer all manner of lines for Switch rods these days; from Skagit, to spey, to Scandinavian, to overhead style, and anglers should choose the line style that suits their particular requirements.
[/size][/font][/size][/font]
[signature]
I agree you need to match up SPEY lines. Lord knows I tried even a regular 9 wt on my Spey but just couldn't load up. The multi tips are a bonus for sure. Correction on my other post, I do own the Windcutter multi tip.
But Switch? I don't know. I don't have one true, but I have cast one for several days. Like the article reads....you CAN use single or two handed lines on them. That is one of the nice things about them.
You guys did read where I mentioned that what I posted was a quote by one of the masters right? Apparently, HE can cast 80' with a dry.
I also agree that with the new RIO line made specially for switch, it will of course address certain spots that need more or less...just like specialty Bass lines. You can use regular line, but the Bass line is specific and addresses certain needs.
[signature]
[quote Weekend_Warrior]I dont have a dog in this fight as I dont own this style of rod. But who fishes "tiny mayfly emergers" "80 Feet" away?? That just seems ridiculous to me. There is no way you could even see the take in a "river eddy" 80 feet away.[/quote]
What difference does it make? They're saying it can be done. That's just the point of the switch rod. Lighter rods that can be used two handed or conventional overhand casting. You're able to get the line out there farther than a single handed rod.
You don't have to have a "spey" line to load it up and fish with it. Steelheaders fiashing with switch rods have been using SA's Mastery Steelhead lines for quite a few years.
For overhead casting I've been told to go one line up in a regular fly line, and as much as 3 line weights up for two handed style casting.
And a 5/6w switch rod ain't quite the same as a conventional 5 or 6w fly rod.
[signature]
[quote wormsinker]what is the main difference between a spey and a switch rod. Is one more versatile or better then the other.
I was lookin for one to fish the salmon area for steelhead and also maybe some lakes or somthin.
I was thinkin a 7wt what lenght do you think would be best[/quote]
do you need a spey or a switch maybe depend on if you need to fish large rivers and beaches we found exciting here in Michigan in the surf. to cover lot of water but if your fishing trout streams 10 maybe 20 foot across. then i would say no. if your leaning toward a 7 weight and you live in the pnw area of north America. i would be thinking at least a 8 weight for their steel head and a 9 or 10 for their salmon. the 7 steel and 8 salmon weights are perfect for here in Michigan another good point on spey / switch rods. is drift boat fishing on full day trips they will save your casting arm from a day of abuse. problem here in Michigan is every one is switch rod crazy.
chuck and duck is most likely the easiest way to fish for steel / salmon if standing in place that is the nice thing on a switch you can not do on a spey very easy. when a crowd forms cause of fish being cough you can switch from the spey part to a chuck and duck style by switching spools. with a spey rod your always spey casting it seems. plus a spey rod will cover more water further then a switch rod but like said they have their advantages.
[signature]
for now.. I use the line you told me to use sis.. :-)
MacFly [cool]
[signature]
thanks for all your help guys and lady. i found a TFO 8wt switch combo that i really liked except for the price. 400 bucks brand new. I am leaning more toward the switch rod but still
on what i will get, and what money will let me get
[signature]
I don't have steelhead at my back door just yet, so, I would probably think switch too.
I know I would use that year round. But I do have a couple of 8 wt's already...LOL
[signature]
[quote wormsinker]thanks for all your help guys and lady. i found a TFO 8wt switch combo that i really liked except for the price. 400 bucks brand new. I am leaning more toward the switch rod but still
on what i will get, and what money will let me get[/quote]
wow 400 i think last i priced a good rod building kit was 150 max for like a 10 weight that was a fast action rod at the hook and hackle company website hookhack.com. if intreseted in doing it i can hlep ya geter done. all you realy need is a card board box a flyting bobbin and a rod drying motor. to fish a rod toal cost total on top of the kit is around 25 buck 10-12 for the motor and 3.99 for the bobbin card borad box equals free. and a 4 oz kit of thread master rod finish. then it's just finding the spine and space the guides after honeing the guide feet. hold guides on with a pieces of masking tape cut 1/4 inch wide. on one side of the snake guides and wrap the other from the bobbin stuck in a hole threw the crad board box . rod sitts in two knotches they give a 10 % discount at hookhack.com keep that in mind. just a tip :p then pic up a good reel for the rod worth around 250 lol's then you got a good set up btw for a crystal clear finish i heat the rod finsh with a hair dryier.for like ten minutes to get all the micro bubble's out.
[signature]