09-23-2011, 10:36 PM
[cool][#0000ff]So...I got to ride and fish from a Renegade. I have test-floated a whole lotta water craft over the past plenty years. I would like to think myself capable of making reasonably accurate evaluations without too much personal bias. Yeah, right.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I do have some "unique" outlooks and fishing styles that make my preferences a bit different from the average tuber or tooner...whatever "average" is. So I will bring those exceptions into the review process so as not to create unreasonable outlooks.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]For example, the Renegade was created mostly by fly fishermen...for fly fishermen. Readily apparent. I fish mostly with spinning and baitcasting gear. And it is also designed for folks who like to go down rivers. Not me also. No problem. There are adaptations and modifications possible using the features and construction of the basic craft.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]NUTSHELL IMPRESSION: Priced out of reach of the "mainstream" tuber and tooner. Dave is mighty "proud" of his craft...as well he should be. Quality is great and it is always good to buy quality. But some folks are fighting a budget battle and there is just not room for that kind of expenditure. The price tag on the Renegade would cover a lot of rent, car payments or food . Unless you got the net spendable you have no reason to be looking at one.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Howsomever, if you have all the money in the world and nothing to spend it on then it is a good investment. You will not find a better craft for similar money...or even more.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]LIKES: [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. The size and carrying capacity. Since I am large and also carry lots of gear...including motor and battery...it is good to be able to go afloat and remain above the water and in a level attitude. It is amazing how well the Renegade holds all that weight and still skims easily over the water...with fins, oars or motor.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. The seats are part of the inflated "floor" that extends from the nose to the middle. The EVA foam seats fold down flat and are adjustable for your preference in back position. Plenty high for my touchy back. And you sit a bit above the water line when afloat so you stay drier and warmer. But you sit lower to the water than in a pontoon...which is one of my dislikes about most pontoons. Too much reaching and less efficiency with the fins (in a pontoon).[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. The Renegade is easily propelled with either the oars, your fins or a motor. All work well. The craft rides high and any kind of propulsion is efficient. I personally will not use the oars much but I was pleased with the rack and pinion mounting and the way they fold down flat and out of the way when not in use. Standard oars are short but they do an adequate job of moving you upon the water. If you want to enter races you can upgrade to bigger oars.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]4. Bladderless construction. I hate repairing pinhole leaks in air bladders. The outer shell of the Renegade IS the air bladder. And it is very tough PVC that should repel most common punctures.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]5. Strap-on pockets. While there are a few downers in my mind about these pockets, I like the concept. Strap them on with the quick connect buckles and you are good to go. Plus...that is what makes it possible to add on my PVC rod rack and utility rack. I make a PVC base, strap it on under the pockets and then push on the modular rod and tool holders. The straps hold the PVC goodies firmly in place. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]UNLIKES:[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. Let's begin with where we left off...pockets. These things are way too big for utility fishing pockets. They are more for storage. We all need more space to hold our stuff, but not right under our arms. Should be a big pocket/storage box behind the seat or velcro attached behind the utility pockets. Both pockets are the same...not a left and right. You gotta decide what you want on which side. And the double zippers are a pain...especially since they open from the back to the front. A single zipper opening from the front is much more practical. And the "selling point" of the pockets being made with insulation is not a selling point to me. The pocket walls are way too stiff and are annoying to rub on the bottoms of your arms. At least the pockets are single compartment and big enough to hold a bass tanglers lure boxes. Many fly flinger craft have a network of small pockets that drive you wacko if you wanna carry larger lure boxes.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. The foot bar is not adjustable. Only one location and one length. Not everybody is the same and most of us have different ideas about where we want our knees while rowing...or our feet while under way with an electric motor. I did not even mount the foot bar on the Renegade I took out because I could not even pull my legs back far enough to rest on it. That adds drag during rowing or when using the electric motor. Not an improvement over using a float tube.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. The air valves are a "one touch" to deflate your craft. While that seems like a handy thing...it is not handy if you forget to secure the valve covers before launching and accidently bump one while well away from shore. Those things dump air fast. You have 3 air chambers but having one of them suddenly deflate will seriously compromise your enjoys.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]PIMPING:[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Since I like to carry several rigged rods on every floatation excursion, I need enough rod tubes to store the extras...as well as ones to hold my active rod when I am dealing with a fish, rerigging, etc. I also need a place to carry oft-used tools like pliers, knife, net, etc.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I have tricked out enough tubes and toons to have a pretty good feel for what PVC components I can use and how to attach them to get the desired results. When I first saw pictures of the frameless Renegade...with only a few precious D rings...I had to ask myself how it would be possible to put together my beloved PVC sideshow. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Once I got to see one up close and personal the light bulbs came on. Of course. I could make a simple base for each side and buckle them down with the strap-on pockets. And making a motor mount was also simple. But it required custom cutting and fitting as I went along to get a mount that fit properly and would handle the weight and torque of of a serious electric motor.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]One of the first-time innovations I came up with was a PVC battery holder frame. Without a rear deck and mounting brackets for a battery box the battery is forced to ride on the inflated floor behind the seat. Not too stable. Much potential for tipping and damage to the craft or the angler. Flygoddess had the problem handled with a piece of carpet under the battery and then some straps attached to the side D rings and the motor mount. In the attached pics you will see how I handled it.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[signature]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I do have some "unique" outlooks and fishing styles that make my preferences a bit different from the average tuber or tooner...whatever "average" is. So I will bring those exceptions into the review process so as not to create unreasonable outlooks.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]For example, the Renegade was created mostly by fly fishermen...for fly fishermen. Readily apparent. I fish mostly with spinning and baitcasting gear. And it is also designed for folks who like to go down rivers. Not me also. No problem. There are adaptations and modifications possible using the features and construction of the basic craft.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]NUTSHELL IMPRESSION: Priced out of reach of the "mainstream" tuber and tooner. Dave is mighty "proud" of his craft...as well he should be. Quality is great and it is always good to buy quality. But some folks are fighting a budget battle and there is just not room for that kind of expenditure. The price tag on the Renegade would cover a lot of rent, car payments or food . Unless you got the net spendable you have no reason to be looking at one.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Howsomever, if you have all the money in the world and nothing to spend it on then it is a good investment. You will not find a better craft for similar money...or even more.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]LIKES: [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. The size and carrying capacity. Since I am large and also carry lots of gear...including motor and battery...it is good to be able to go afloat and remain above the water and in a level attitude. It is amazing how well the Renegade holds all that weight and still skims easily over the water...with fins, oars or motor.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. The seats are part of the inflated "floor" that extends from the nose to the middle. The EVA foam seats fold down flat and are adjustable for your preference in back position. Plenty high for my touchy back. And you sit a bit above the water line when afloat so you stay drier and warmer. But you sit lower to the water than in a pontoon...which is one of my dislikes about most pontoons. Too much reaching and less efficiency with the fins (in a pontoon).[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. The Renegade is easily propelled with either the oars, your fins or a motor. All work well. The craft rides high and any kind of propulsion is efficient. I personally will not use the oars much but I was pleased with the rack and pinion mounting and the way they fold down flat and out of the way when not in use. Standard oars are short but they do an adequate job of moving you upon the water. If you want to enter races you can upgrade to bigger oars.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]4. Bladderless construction. I hate repairing pinhole leaks in air bladders. The outer shell of the Renegade IS the air bladder. And it is very tough PVC that should repel most common punctures.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]5. Strap-on pockets. While there are a few downers in my mind about these pockets, I like the concept. Strap them on with the quick connect buckles and you are good to go. Plus...that is what makes it possible to add on my PVC rod rack and utility rack. I make a PVC base, strap it on under the pockets and then push on the modular rod and tool holders. The straps hold the PVC goodies firmly in place. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]UNLIKES:[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]1. Let's begin with where we left off...pockets. These things are way too big for utility fishing pockets. They are more for storage. We all need more space to hold our stuff, but not right under our arms. Should be a big pocket/storage box behind the seat or velcro attached behind the utility pockets. Both pockets are the same...not a left and right. You gotta decide what you want on which side. And the double zippers are a pain...especially since they open from the back to the front. A single zipper opening from the front is much more practical. And the "selling point" of the pockets being made with insulation is not a selling point to me. The pocket walls are way too stiff and are annoying to rub on the bottoms of your arms. At least the pockets are single compartment and big enough to hold a bass tanglers lure boxes. Many fly flinger craft have a network of small pockets that drive you wacko if you wanna carry larger lure boxes.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]2. The foot bar is not adjustable. Only one location and one length. Not everybody is the same and most of us have different ideas about where we want our knees while rowing...or our feet while under way with an electric motor. I did not even mount the foot bar on the Renegade I took out because I could not even pull my legs back far enough to rest on it. That adds drag during rowing or when using the electric motor. Not an improvement over using a float tube.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]3. The air valves are a "one touch" to deflate your craft. While that seems like a handy thing...it is not handy if you forget to secure the valve covers before launching and accidently bump one while well away from shore. Those things dump air fast. You have 3 air chambers but having one of them suddenly deflate will seriously compromise your enjoys.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]PIMPING:[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Since I like to carry several rigged rods on every floatation excursion, I need enough rod tubes to store the extras...as well as ones to hold my active rod when I am dealing with a fish, rerigging, etc. I also need a place to carry oft-used tools like pliers, knife, net, etc.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I have tricked out enough tubes and toons to have a pretty good feel for what PVC components I can use and how to attach them to get the desired results. When I first saw pictures of the frameless Renegade...with only a few precious D rings...I had to ask myself how it would be possible to put together my beloved PVC sideshow. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Once I got to see one up close and personal the light bulbs came on. Of course. I could make a simple base for each side and buckle them down with the strap-on pockets. And making a motor mount was also simple. But it required custom cutting and fitting as I went along to get a mount that fit properly and would handle the weight and torque of of a serious electric motor.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]One of the first-time innovations I came up with was a PVC battery holder frame. Without a rear deck and mounting brackets for a battery box the battery is forced to ride on the inflated floor behind the seat. Not too stable. Much potential for tipping and damage to the craft or the angler. Flygoddess had the problem handled with a piece of carpet under the battery and then some straps attached to the side D rings and the motor mount. In the attached pics you will see how I handled it.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[signature]