I'm thinking of getting a new steelhead rod. I have been thinking of getting a gLoomis.
I'm thinking I may just get a gLoomis salmon rod and have it double up as a steelhead rod. The rod in question is a gLoomis salmon mooching rod SAMR1084C 9 foot 10-30# test, moderate action, 1-6 ounce lure weight.
I figured I shouldn't buy both a salmon AND steelhead rod as we don't have a long salmon run on the Salmon river.
Any thoughts on this? Advice? I'm trying to get a really nice rod as I like to have top of the line gear. Thanks!
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I have never fished the rod you are looking at but if it were me I'd look at drift rods rather than mooching rods for Idaho steelhead and salmon.
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Tob,
I think you are real close to being right on. I am a big believer in G Loomis and I like the idea of buying good quality stuff so that you only have to do it once. I am not familiar with the differences in mooching vs. drifting rods like SteelFisher seems to be -- so I would defer to him on that issue.
Here are my two cents: I have a G Loomis GL2 STR 1265C. This is a 10.5' casting rod that is rated for 20# line and 1.5 oz. lure weight maximum. At first I was reluctant to use it for salmon fishing in the high flow and potentially large fish of our Idaho waters but eventually realized that it would do the job. I landed a 42" chinook on it last year. I use it mostly bobber fishing but it works fine drift fishing and I am sure would be fine for mooching. I can't overstate the advantage that the extra length provides for both casting and fighting fish. I can't imagine that anybody can love a rod more than I love this one.
If you stick with the SAMR, I would take a hard look at the 1265C offered in that model. Or you could just get a rod like mine, save some money and be guaranteed happy. I only broke mine once, and it was my fault. I was fighting the 15th 20# (plus) carp of the same day and got lazy and reached a hair above the cork for added torque. I was using 65# line so I knew that I was outside the ratings. G Loomis stands behind their lifetime guarantee -- even if you are stupid.....
FR
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Hey, thanks for the advice! I may have to take a look at your model. How is the sensitivity when feeling the bite? Especially while drift fishing. Thanks again!
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I'll throw in my 2 cents...
Regardless of what kind of coin you want to spend, I'd suggest the STR1025c. 8.5' in length, med-heavy action, and a great all-around rod for both steelies and Chinook. The IMX is the best drift rod on the market right now, and has been for a decade. It will provide superb bottom sensetivity with anywhere from an inch, to 8", of 1/4" lead, and power enough to handle most Idaho salmon, unless you're having to make a "stand" on them in real heavy water.
If you can afford it the IMX is the best, with the GL3 not far behind. They're spendy, but that old adage of, "you get what you pay for..." holds very true on drift rods.
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Tobo,
I have a couple of Lamiglas rods XMG50's and I really like them. But you can't go wrong with G Loomis. I would follow Huntsmans advise as he has way more experience fishing for salmon than I have. I mainly fish for steelhead and my rods would be on the light side for salmon.
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I have a 8'6" GL3 medium weight fast action rod and also a 8'8" new steelhead series medium/heavy weight rod and love them both. Temple Fork Outfitters now have a Gary Loomis signature series rod that I would love to test, but the wife says no. So I have to stick with the 2 loomis rods I have for now. If you can afford it, go for it. You will not be disappointed.
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The mooching rods are meant for big baits in deep salt water. You let the fish take the bait and feed for a bit before setting the hook. I've used that G loomis rod with a guide in Alaska last summer. They also worked well for rockfish and halibut. Not sure that's what you want for Idaho.
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Last year, after a couple years of shopping and researching, I finally purchased a SAMR1174C specifically for salmon fishing in Idaho. Don't worry that they call it a mooching rod, it is the most perfect rod for drift fishing Idaho's chinook that I have seen yet - and I started during the 2000 season.
It should also probably be noted that I thought I already had the perfect rod for that job. It's a 1 piece 8'0" St. Croix, but after some time, I decided that I need some extra length from time to time. [
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For steelhead, I run Cabela's XML's. I'm not sure that they are the ultimate, but I have loved them and haven't convinced myself that I need anything better (and that is actually saying something [cool]). I bought my first one back in 1999 when they were still using Loomis blanks on them. It's the 9 footer. I caught alot of steelhead on that rod. I still have and use that rod. Then I bought the exact same rod in the XML Ti when they closed out the XML Ti Salmon/Steelhead series - love that rod as well. Finally I bought the 10 footer with the weight balance system a couple years back for float fishing the Clearwater, and that rod is a dream as well.
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The number one feature a drift rod should sport is sensitivity. If you're not "feeling" the bottom, and I mean really feeling the bottom, then you're loosing the battle. The heavier your rod is, the heavier your line is, and the heavier your weight is, all detract from sensitivity. I would much rather fish with a rod that is more sensitive, so I can feel whats going on, than use a rod that has more power to fight a fish. Most rods are designed for a specific type of fishing. I want to hook more fish, salmon or steelhead, and to do that I'll have a tougher time if my rod is a "broom handle". Pick a rod that's designed for drift fishing, and it'll do a better job for you.
You shouldn't need a rod thats rated for 30+ lb line in Idaho, as our fish aren't big enough to demand that kind of line weight, even if you're fishing heavy water. My favorite hole on the Little Salmon River is about 50 yards long, and has very heavy water. Thats why the Chinook stack up in it. Last summer we didn't have one fish go out the bottom end of the hole, and we were all using light tackle comparably speaking. Rods rated for 8-17lb test, 15 lb line, and #1 octo hooks. The only heavy piece of terminal gear was the 6" chunk of lead.
If your rod is of top quality, you should be able to use it for both steelhead and salmon here in Idaho. You'll feel more, hook more, and grin more...
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I have caught quite a few salmon on my medium action gl-2 its just a little bit of a better fight.
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spending big cash on a high end rod, you should have an excellent warranty too. i've heard rumors that the loomis warranty isnt what it used to be. cant confirm, just what i've heard. you may want to look into that before committing.
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I just went and bought a GL2 from cabelas this weekend...very happy!
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Thanks for all of the insight guys! I have yet to decide on a rod. I may end up getting both a steelhead rod and a salmon rod. Before I buy one I need to figure out when I can actually go steelhead fishing!
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Tob, one other thing. If you get both a steelhead rod and a salmon rod, make sure that they'll work at either. That way you've always got a back-up rod in case one crashes.
Again, the rod isn't as much for fighting the fish, as how much lead you'll be throwing and drifting. Seeing how most of our salmon fishing is in similar water as our steelhead fishing, usually the same rod will work for both...good luck
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Have someone wrap you up a rainshadow! I liquidated all my loomis sticks except for my pre-shimano loomis 1082C as its my favorite rod to drift fish with. For the price you get a better warranty, better components, and a better price with rainshadow.
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So I finally decided on a rod! I found a rod that will work for steelhead AND salmon.
I ended up getting a gLoomis salmon SAR1084S. It is a 9 foot rod, 10-25# line weight, moderate action, heavy power.
I think it is going to work great for both species!
I initially bought a light power gLoomis GL2 steelhead rod, but I didn't like that enough so I returned it and got the above mentioned rod. I can't wait to get out next week and try it out!
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Maybe a bit overkill for steelhead but as an all purpose rod it should get the job done. Why did you go with a spinning rod over a baitcaster?
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Yeah, I wanted a rod for both steelhead and salmon. To be honest, I've never used a baitcaster and could never figure it out. I do just fine with spinning reels.
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I usualy use a spinning real also Tobo.. the only time i have wished i had a bait caster is when its cold (20degrees or below) then they tend to freeze up. I use a medium heavy Shimono[url "http://www.boaterbarn.com/Shimano_Scimitar_SMC_86M_2_86_Graphite_Casting_Rod.htm"]http://www.boaterbarn.com/Shimano_Scimitar_SMC_86M_2_86_Graphite_Casting_Rod.htm[/url]
i keep a spool for my reel with 10 and 20 lb test one for steelhead one for chinnook. im sure you can find a better rod but this one fits me execialy for the cost. i have fished with 200 dollar rods and cant tell a diffrence
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