I need a couple of smaller pieces of 3/4" marine plywood - one about 8"x10", another about 10"x12".
Hoping someone has some "scraps" I could have.
If not does anybody know a dealer that might have some. The one I called so far said they never mess with the stuff.
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If you find some please let me know, looks like I'll be replacing the floor in my boat this winter. I think your best bet will be to keep calling around until you find a shore that you can order it through. Also what part of the state do you live in, I think I remember one of the guys getting some at one of the lumber stores in the Ogden area. You could try google.
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I did a quick search and found this:
[url "http://www.local.com/results/?keyword=marine%20plywood%20suppliers&location=Ogden%252C%2520Ut"]http://www.local.com/results/?keyword=marine%20plywood%20suppliers&location=Ogden%252C%2520Ut[/url]
If you don't live up North, just type in the city close to you, good luck.
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I've replaced half of the factory 3/4 inch plywood floor in my 15-year-old Lund and some of the same wood on the gunnels. After researching, I avoided "marine" plywood and instead used some higher-grade "dry" plywood and sealed it with epoxy finish. So far, I can't get the wood wet if I try! I was advised against marine-grade by some in the industry because it had moisture sealed inside the layers, which would not last as long over time. Just an FYI.
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At $80 a sheet I bet the route you took was a lot cheaper but doesn't the epoxy add a lot of weight to your boat?
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I was hoping someone might have a project going...wiperhunter let me know if you have any "scraps" leftover when you're done...
I just did another search and found Sutherlands has marine plywood for $70 a sheet.
I also like the idea of the regular plywood with some epoxy. I think that will work best for my smaller project.
Thanks for the ideas.
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I had someone else advise me to use regular plywood and coat it with fiberglass resin, I'm not sure if that is the same thing that Jim was talking about but if it doesn't weigh too much, that might be the way to go for me too. Even at $70 a sheet, I would need at least two sheets, that would be $140.
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Yes, 3M fiberglass resin is what I used. I didn't even notice any increase in weight. That 3/4 inch plywood is already pretty heavy! I forgot how they grade that stuff, but after looking into it at the time, the sheets I got were from Home Depot, two years ago, and they were $35 a sheet.
For the floor, I also coated the top of the wood with a product called Durabak, from a Colorado company. Its a non-skid, waterproof coating you brush on, and just wonderful. For the non-floor pieces, the resin is working fine. Water beads and rolls off.
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Thanks for the info Jim. One last question, did you put the resin over the entire wood before you put it down or did you coat the top of the wood once it was in place?
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I coated the wood after it was cut to size and test-fitted, but before I screwed it down. I coated the top, bottom and sides of the bare plywood. Complete seal. On the Durabak floor, it just needs the Durabak on the top and sides, but I sealed the bottom with epoxy. I also put 5200 silicone in the screw holes when I screwed it down. I may regret that later if I ever need to remove them, but that will be a long, long time since I sealed the wood. All the early rot and most serious failures of wood in marine applications I've seen is at the screw holes or cut-outs for seat bases. I tried to stop the water at its source. So far, so good!
Before:[inline "boat before.jpg"]
During:[inline "Floors cut out.jpg"]
After:[inline "front floor close.jpg"]
Bare treated wood on Gunnel:
[inline IMGP0930.JPG]
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Awesome, thanks so much Jim, that is exactly what I was interested in learning. Did you also buy the resin at Home Depot?
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Yes, the Rock Springs, WY Home Depot had a cans of it. Should be easy to find. Durabak was manufacturer direct (Denver) If you do a floor, don't leave it just covered with resin, or you'll slip and bust your arse! Epoxied wood is pretty smooth and slippery.
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A few years ago, before the whole floor went soft, I replace my old floor covering, not carpet, so it is almost new. I should be able to reuse it, if I'm careful, it is held in place with staples.
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You can use 3/4 dura back. It's what concrete forms are made from. It's half the cost of marine plywood and lasts just as long or longer.
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fyi;
Smiths penetrating epoxy (2 part) , is a great product, i,ve been using it for years, to treat bare plywood prior to painting. its like water and runs everywhere...few coats seals up the cut sides of the plywood .
prior to paint...........
I also the use smiths 2 part epoxy filler .
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I'm in the process of changing the floor in my boat and I'm likely going to use epoxy to seal the regular plywood I plan on using, where can I buy this Smiths penetrating epoxy? I don't plan on painting the wood though does that matter?
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wh2
paint over the smith treated wood,
Since a complete redo of a 36ft fiberglass boat 12 years ago , and using this for all the wood in the bilges, etc .. I,M SOLD.
then i paint with interlux brightside polyurethane paint. its a pricey process, but this lasts.
. I did a complete redo on a 16ft bass tracker 5 yrs ago and used the same process on all the wood flooring.
It is slick so you need something on it if its (carpet, nonskid etc)
the smith products : smithandcompany.org
Dont know where in utah, I did see you can order through them or others. I,m in san diego and go to my local marine store to buy it ...make sure you get the one for the proper temp zone...
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I just see no need of painting it, unless it is needed because I have vinyl covering that goes over the floor.
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I have used "marine" plywood and it is a lot different than regular 3/4 outdoor plywood. In regular plywood (3/4") there are about 7-9 layers. In the same thickness of marine plywood there are about 17-20 layers. Also, in marine plywood there are no "voids" as in regular plywood. Just look at a cut end and you'll see what I mean by voids. What Jim did is the next best thing, but for the cost of epoxy, floor coating, and my time waiting for things to dry, etc. I went with marine plywood in my old boat and it worked great and was worth the cost. I paid about $70+ per 4x8' sheet. I just painted over it to match the rest of the boat with exterior paint. Overall the marine plywood is much stronger than exterior plywood and is treated to be in contact with water not just in "damp" areas like exterior plywood.. I replaced the transom in my old boat so I wanted to make it as strong as new. Just my $0.02 worth but if I go with flooring in a boat I'm using marine plywood since I don't have the time/patience it takes to treat the other plywood with epoxy resin.
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i,m with bearlakeguy. I always use marine ply,. and the smiths penetrating epoxy.(dries fast)
you especially want to seal those sides prior to paint...
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