Fishing Forum

Yesterday as I went to drill the first one of the day...as I feel the auger breaking through the ice, I go with a "counterclockwise" motion to bring the auger up, I noticed that the bottom half disappeared. The nut broke must have broke. So the bottom part is long gone. Ice was about a foot with some slush. I removed most of the snow prior to cutting the hole.

Does this sound like a manufacturer defect, or bad technique by me? This auger is three weeks old..maybe 8 holes "old".
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[quote kramer_]as I feel the auger breaking through the ice, I go with a "counterclockwise" motion to bring the auger up, I noticed that the bottom half disappeared. The nut broke must have broke. So the bottom part is long gone.[/quote]

As in "lefty loosey"? Sounds like that might be about half of your problem. If you've drilled a hole in the ice, the auger shouldn't have to be "unscrewed" to get it out.



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Half of my blade broke off on the first one I got from dicks after 2-3 weeks of using it and they replaced it with no problem.

As well I always carry a small shovel with me too remove the snow and slush out of the area that I want too drill a hole. Helps out too start drilling a hole for sure.

If your other half of the auger is gone they will not give you a new one. Probably on your new one buy a nut and tighten it up.
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[quote Fishrmn][quote kramer_]as I feel the auger breaking through the ice, I go with a "counterclockwise" motion to bring the auger up, I noticed that the bottom half disappeared. The nut broke must have broke. So the bottom part is long gone.[/quote]

As in "lefty loosey"? Sounds like that might be about half of your problem. If you've drilled a hole in the ice, the auger shouldn't have to be "unscrewed" to get it out.


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So when I feel the auger breaking through the ice, I just need to pull straight up..and not go with the counterclockwise motion?
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For the record, I had the wing nut secured.
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Yep. The nut is designed to stay tight when you cut. When you reverse that action if it is at all loose it will come unthreaded. If you caught on some ice then start craking in reverse that might explain it. Did it break off or just come unthreaded??
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When you've got the issue resolved, i.e. a new auger, drill your holes straight. You should be able to simply lift the auger out of the hole. Have you ever had to reverse a drill to get the bit out of a piece of wood or metal?

You should probably check to ensure that the auger "bit" is tight against the handle before you start drilling too. Clockwise pressure should tighten it up, but if it's already loose, you never know how much more before it falls off.



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If you need a cheap and fast fix you can get the nills blade at Fish Tech to fit your eskimo auger. I did that with mine last year when I could not find any Eskimo replacement blades.
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[quote kramer_]For the record, I had the wing nut secured.[/quote]

My bad. I thought your auger had the type of handle that screws on. If you have the type that has 3 holes that accept a wing nut and can be adjusted for length it's a different concept. You still shouldn't have to "unscrew" the auger, but if the nut was tight before you started, it wouldn't loosen up by turning the auger counterclockwise. If it broke, I'd say it was defective. If you checked it before you started using it, I'd say something happened to the wing nut and that would be a defect too.



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Well, thanks guys. Maybe it was me, maybe it was a defect. It was $40 so sometimes you get what you pay for. I picked up a strike master 6 inch mora...so at least it will be easier to drill holes versus that 8 inch eskimo.
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My eskimo almost done the same thing last winter.luckily I seen it before I lost it.When I got home I broke out my miller and welded it together and has been doing great...it's a bummer It wont break down shorter though for in the trunk hauling.
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The bolt that holds them together is junk you cant tighten them enough by hand and they work loose then wear on the treaded side. Best thing you can do to prevent it from happening is get rid of that bolt and replace it with a grade 5 or better along with a 1/4 inch sleeve. I use the reverese method all the time on my eskimo and nils




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I'm glad I have a lazer.[cool]
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Watch your laser there the same auger different name
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[quote drowning_flys]Watch your laser there the same auger different name[/quote]

I got mine back in the mid 90's. No problems yet...[cool]
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Cool better built I'm sure
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It was built by strikemaster in sweden.[cool]
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Mora builds a lot of augers for different company and they just re badge them here in the states That might change now that rapala bought them and strikemaster. as long as they keep the Swedish steel on the end of them flaws can be fixed
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[quote drowning_flys]The bolt that holds them together is junk you cant tighten them enough by hand and they work loose then wear on the treaded side. Best thing you can do to prevent it from happening is get rid of that bolt and replace it with a grade 5 or better along with a 1/4 inch sleeve. I use the reverese method all the time on my eskimo and nils

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Drowning flys

Great suggestion. Do you alwats keep that grade 5 bolt in place, or do you transport your auger in seperate pieces?
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Thanks
I break it down sometimes, Just go to one of the pawn stores and buy a 7/16 wrench you could use some double sided Velcro to attach it to the handle somewhere harbor frieght has some good choices might also consider getting a 5/16 encase your auger blades ever come lose. My barracuda is a hybrid and ultra compact for transport.


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