07-05-2016, 07:18 PM
I'm still getting questions on how to set-up my fishing rig using live crab as my bait. Guess i need to go more into detail on how i do my rig set-up step by step. Since i frequent the same areas i try to be ecology minded by perpetuating my natural supply of crab by not exploiting the numbers. I tie the hooks on and by the end of the day i release ALL my live crabs back into the exact areas that i got them from.
When i arrive to my spots my first action is to place frozen squid (ika) into the bait canisters of my double-ringed crab nets. So while i'm setting-up my equipment i'm "farming" for live bait as well. When i'm through setting up my equipment i have enough live crabs to start rigging up my lines.
For this area i keep my weight/lead line, also known as a "squid" line long (i like the black Nylon Casting Line by The Angler's Connection). This keeps the hook high above the bottom. Larger crabs like the monster Samoan "Sole" Crab can crush toes & cut off fingers. They make mincemeat out of smaller crabs. I loop both ends of the weight line so i can easily change weights to changing rigs without cutting the line.
The 60# - 130# monofilament bait line for this type of area i keep around 6in. Hooks are Japan black circle hooks that are factory offset for easy hook-ups. I mostly use Mutsu 3/0 or the slightly larger Japan black Hi-Carbon BKN #18 circle hooks that are also factory offset. The 3-Way swivels are 4/0 combined with 3/0 rated at 350lbs.
I like using braid in areas like this that have little to no reef or underwater structures since the lightest tear to braid can cause it to unravel. In areas that does have structures i use mono that can resist some abrasion. If you compare 50# braid to 50# mono you'll find you can cast farther using braid as it's thinner with less air resistance. Because it's thinner you can spool more yardage providing the spool used for both holds the same yardage. Mono can withstand more line damage then braid can and if you use slides it's much easier sending down a 1 or 2 way slide down a slick mono line. I tried that once using braid but had to wet the braid and "bounce" it down by undulating the rod. A lot of work.
One of the best things about mono is you can grab the line easier then braid. I'd NEVER grab braid during a hook-up, even with gloves. It can cut very easily. After you throw your bait out i keep slight line tension. The tip is always slightly bent forward. I can tell if a fish or crab is attacking the bait so i can retrieve it to place somewhere else by watching what the tip does. On many occasions i'm running for the rod because i can see the strike seconds before the reel starts singing.
The techniques i'm using & species targeted is for my geographical area. I'm sure the thought process is quite the same Worldwide. As with all aspects of fishing you'll need to adapt changes to make this work where you fish. The BEST thing about using live crab is i'm targeting larger fish with bait that i don't have to worry about smaller fishes trying to pull off. I leave it all day long without having to check it and my only bait cost is a few whole squids for my crab nets that amount to less then a dollar.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8w3Yg1oWe0
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When i arrive to my spots my first action is to place frozen squid (ika) into the bait canisters of my double-ringed crab nets. So while i'm setting-up my equipment i'm "farming" for live bait as well. When i'm through setting up my equipment i have enough live crabs to start rigging up my lines.
For this area i keep my weight/lead line, also known as a "squid" line long (i like the black Nylon Casting Line by The Angler's Connection). This keeps the hook high above the bottom. Larger crabs like the monster Samoan "Sole" Crab can crush toes & cut off fingers. They make mincemeat out of smaller crabs. I loop both ends of the weight line so i can easily change weights to changing rigs without cutting the line.
The 60# - 130# monofilament bait line for this type of area i keep around 6in. Hooks are Japan black circle hooks that are factory offset for easy hook-ups. I mostly use Mutsu 3/0 or the slightly larger Japan black Hi-Carbon BKN #18 circle hooks that are also factory offset. The 3-Way swivels are 4/0 combined with 3/0 rated at 350lbs.
I like using braid in areas like this that have little to no reef or underwater structures since the lightest tear to braid can cause it to unravel. In areas that does have structures i use mono that can resist some abrasion. If you compare 50# braid to 50# mono you'll find you can cast farther using braid as it's thinner with less air resistance. Because it's thinner you can spool more yardage providing the spool used for both holds the same yardage. Mono can withstand more line damage then braid can and if you use slides it's much easier sending down a 1 or 2 way slide down a slick mono line. I tried that once using braid but had to wet the braid and "bounce" it down by undulating the rod. A lot of work.
One of the best things about mono is you can grab the line easier then braid. I'd NEVER grab braid during a hook-up, even with gloves. It can cut very easily. After you throw your bait out i keep slight line tension. The tip is always slightly bent forward. I can tell if a fish or crab is attacking the bait so i can retrieve it to place somewhere else by watching what the tip does. On many occasions i'm running for the rod because i can see the strike seconds before the reel starts singing.
The techniques i'm using & species targeted is for my geographical area. I'm sure the thought process is quite the same Worldwide. As with all aspects of fishing you'll need to adapt changes to make this work where you fish. The BEST thing about using live crab is i'm targeting larger fish with bait that i don't have to worry about smaller fishes trying to pull off. I leave it all day long without having to check it and my only bait cost is a few whole squids for my crab nets that amount to less then a dollar.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8w3Yg1oWe0
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