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Jig/Hook Question
#1
I noticed on a recent ice trip, that one of my jigs often didn't result in a secure hook up, and I eventually traded it for another kind.  It could have been operator error, but wondering about hook angle compared to the jig head and eye location/orientation and overall balance and how those affect hook set when jigged vertically.  That particular jig seemed to be similar to the other one that was working better, so not sure why.

Anybody have some thoughts or experience?
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j.o.a.t.m.o.n.

jack of all tackle, master of none
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#2
(11-27-2021, 05:38 PM)joatmon Wrote: I noticed on a recent ice trip, that one of my jigs often didn't result in a secure hook up, and I eventually traded it for another kind.  It could have been operator error, but wondering about hook angle compared to the jig head and eye location/orientation and overall balance and how those affect hook set when jigged vertically.  That particular jig seemed to be similar to the other one that was working better, so not sure why.

Anybody have some thoughts or experience?

The subjects of ice fishing jigs and hook sizes/shapes/colors etc. are ones for debate, for sure.  And as with most other fishing factors are subject to personal experience and opinion.  I am amazed at the stuff I have seen used over the years, simply because "I caught a lot of fish on this...once." 

I have personally conducted several decades of what I would like to think as "objective" research.  The only hard and fast rule I have discovered is that there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to fish or fishing.  There are too many variables in fishing conditions, fish activity levels, angler prejudices and notions, etc.  However, there are things to watch for and to consider whenever you suspect you could be doing better.

Jig shapes and hook orientation are potentially important.  One thing I HAVE come to believe in is making a "horizontal" presentation when possible.  I have watched fish reactions on camera to the difference between a baited jig that hangs vertically or at an angle vs one that presents horizontally.  On days when fish are active and smacking anything, it might not make a difference.  But when they are being more finicky, the horizontal presentation usually gets more attention.

That's why my fave jigs for ice fishing...or vertical presentations from afloat...are usually ones that have the balance to hang horizontally.  And I modified some of my jig molds to relocate the hook eye from the front of the hook to a mid-body position that will change the balance accordingly.  And I have quite a few guys on the board who agree...after enjoying greater success with the horizontal hold thing.

Hooks are another thing subject to a lot of personal opinion.  Regardless of what you believe, having good sharp hooks of the right size is a key element.  There should be a balance between the size of the jig head, the type and size of bait you will be using and the size and species of fish you anticipate catching.  For example, there are a lot of "Gammy" fans out there who would never use anything but Gamakatsu hooks.  God bless 'em.  But in many cases they are spending more money than necessary just for status.  True, Gammies are very strong, as well as sharp, but for most ice fishing hook strength is not a key element.  Not nearly as much as sharpness and fish holding ability.

Your method of setting the hook is another area of real importance.  I chortle and guffaw whenever I see someone using an 18" noodle rod trying to set a hook...with a reach to the sky and dislocating their shoulders...only to still lose the fish halfway to the hole.  There are more and more experienced ice anglers that are opting for ice rods of 40 inches or longer...with more backbone.  When using a stronger and longer rod, you can move a lot of line and set the hook more positively with a quick upward wrist snap than with a short wimpy rod.  I use the example of putting a nail in a board...you gotta pound it in...not push it in.

In the same vein, I gave up using super flexible "ice lines" long ago.  They are too stretchy and do not allow for good positive hooks sets...unless you use several followup hook sets after the first one.  And you don't have to use a a line that is stiff and develops coils to get positive feel and hooksets.  But that is not the subject of this diatribe.

I am attaching pics of some of the jig heads I have used most...and which are popular among other Utah ice tanglers.

[Image: FLAT-RINKEE-OPTIONS.jpg]  [Image: SHAD-DART-FLATHEADS.jpg]  [Image: WOBBLE-ICE.jpg] [Image: ULTRA-MINNOW-ICE.jpg]







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#3
Probably no new information, but I would recommend a few things.  

Of course buy good quality jigs with hooks that are sharp and strong that won't bend easily.  That is a given.

Check the barb or point often to make sure that it is in good condition and sharp.  One trip ice fishing years ago, I was missing hook ups on Perch and a fishing buddy suggested checking my hook.  Sure enough the point was slightly bent over, and I hadn't noticed it because it was a smaller size.  Also check that the hook gap is not too wide or bent open.

I personally slightly open the gap of the hook, especially when it is one that has the hook bent in tightly.  This may be controversial, but works for me.  I know if it is too wide you will miss hookups also.

Good luck!
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#4
Your line will make a big difference in hooksets, one that stretches will not set a hook very well, l used some ice line a few years ago and lost lots of fish because of line stretch, so now I use the same mono on my ice reels as my open water reels and don't lose many fish.
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#5
I'm fond of using braid. And I always carry a hook sharpener.
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#6
Try giving your hook a slight offset. Bend or twist it to the side so that the point isn’t perfectly inline with the eye. It’s free. Might help, who knows.
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#7
(11-27-2021, 05:38 PM)joatmon Wrote: I noticed on a recent ice trip, that one of my jigs often didn't result in a secure hook up, and I eventually traded it for another kind.  It could have been operator error, but wondering about hook angle compared to the jig head and eye location/orientation and overall balance and how those affect hook set when jigged vertically.  That particular jig seemed to be similar to the other one that was working better, so not sure why.

Anybody have some thoughts or experience?

I would check two things with everything else being equal -- Hook point and hook gap. After being used for awhile hook points dull and/or roll over. Check sharpness by pulling the hook point across your fingernail or carefully run your fingertip past the point and it should catch, not drag across the nail or skin. They also can be bent while being removed changing the gap and alignment. Make sure the point is parallel to the shaft or bent slightly open.

Some jigs are designed to hang horizontally (typical tube jig, Rat Finke) and some vertically (CJ&S Shrimpo, Northland Forage Minnow Jig). Both work very well, you just have to tie them on so they perform the way they are designed to fish.

You don't push a nail into a board, you hammer it in! That analogy is great for wood working, not so much for setting hooks. A fish’s bone structure is more cartilage-like than solid bone. Also, we’re working with small, fine needle point hooks, not a 16 penny nail. Setting a hook is much more comparable to pushing a pin through cardboard or inserting a needle in your arm. If you have never done so, take your favorite hook and see how easily it penetrates into your finger with relatively little pressure, just kidding, don’t try it! But it should be similar to a hypodermic needle. If it doesn’t penetrate easily past the barb, I’d say you need a replacement or a better brand of hook not a “bigger hammer” so to speak.

In ice fishing, we typically are dealing with fish less than 20" in length and most hooks are between size 12 and size 6 and lines are between 1 lb and 6 lb test. If you are using quality hooks, they will penetrate to the barb with very little pressure. No bone crushing, back breaking hook sets needed. Hard hook sets usually end up bending hooks, breaking line or tearing large holes in fish flesh allowing hooks to simply fall out after a few head shakes.

I use monofilament and fluorocarbon in 2 lb to 6 lb test and 10 lb braid and quality size 14 to size 6 hooks on rods ranging from 22" to 50", UL noodle rods to Medium Heavy power and I get great hook penetration with all of them. I get excellent hookup percentage, I rarely lose a fish and my hooks penetrate to the barb regardless of line weight, hook size or fish species.

For a good hook set, usually all you need to do is quickly and firmly pull back and keep the pressure on. If you aren’t getting good hook penetration you either have bad hooks or your line is coiled and not hanging straight, typically from too heavy pound test line, old line or too light of lure for the line you’re using. Sorry, you can’t blame line stretch unless your 30+ feet deep or your trying to set a 1/0 hook with 4 lb test.

I recommend using high quality lines from 2 lb test to 6 lb test maximum unless your fishing for or likely to catch fish over 5 pounds. I’ve iced plenty of 4 & 5 pound fish on 2 lb test. Quality line and hooks will ice plenty of fish.

Lure brands with quality hooks include – VMC, Rapala, Lindy, Clam, Northland Tackle
Excellent ice line brands include –  Sufix, Northland Bionic, Trilene
Excellent hook brands include – Gamakatsu, VMC, Owner, Trokar

Avoid, like the plague, hook and line brands like Ozark Trail (Walmart), Zebco, Danielson

Lots of caveats to deal with because there are tons of special circumstances, but I didn’t want to write an entire book, just a chapter.

Check out a few of my ice fishing videos and you can see how I set the hook.
https://youtu.be/AAxDNt3lF4U
https://youtu.be/wnMkcVZGUWI
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