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Leaded trolling line question
#1
Hi everyone- I got some leaded trolling line for Fathers Day so I can get my lures down deeper when I troll the bigger lakes. My question is regarding spooling it onto the reel. Do I need backing between the reel and the line for 100 yds. of 27 lb.? I have an old bait casting boron rod and reel I haven't used for a year and I plan to try it on that reel. Any ideas or suggetions are appreciated. Thanks, Acey
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#2
No, you don't need any backing for your leaded line.

Lloyd
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#3
you better have a 0/4 0/5 reel to put that line on.. if it's just a baitcaster it might only hold 1/2 the line you want to put on.. if not get a peen levelwind like a 309 or bigger..

dude on fish?
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#4
Fuzzy is right on getting the right reel and rod for that stuff . I got a Penn 309 with the 18# leadcore on it and it might have room for another 100 yards of backing but I didn't put any on . If you need a reel I might get rid of one cheap .
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#5
Thanks for all your information. This is exactly what I needed to know. Is your reel a left or right handed model. I prefer the crank on the left side of the reel so I can hold the rod with my right hand and steer the boat with my left hand. How much are you asking for the reel? I am interested. Acey
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#6
My reels are all right hand cranks because I am a south paw .
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#7
I noticed you bought 27# leadcore. Most leadcore lines have the same amount of lead in them. So the 27# line has a thicker dacron sheath than the 18# line. This means that the 27# line will be thicker and will therefore not run as deep as the 18# line. So if you want to maximize your depth, exchange the 27# leadcore for the 18#.

You will find that leadcore is very speed dependant, and that rules-of-thumb like "5 yards deep per color out" varies drastically depending on your speed. Also, make sure to attach a 50' mono leader to your leadcore. Just hollow out an inch of the dacron by removing the sheath, insert the mono into the sheath, and tie an overhand knot. It's a strong, small knot that will fit through the guides on your rod without a problem.

Also, remember that leadcore doesn't stretch, so loosen your drag and use a light rod with plenty of give.
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#8
I am new to the world of trolling and lead lines so do not laugh to hard but why would you attach the 50' of mono to the line?
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#9
Thanks for your suggestion. My wife wanted a list of possible fishing tackle items to look for for my Father's Day presents. Dang, I should have told her I needed 17# line, not the 28# she bought. I think I will exchange it now. Bless her heart for trying to make me happy. I looked at the baitcaster reel I have and it is definitely too small to hold the lead line, so now I am shopping for a new reel to put it on. Now I have to decide if it can go on one of the poles I have now or if I NEED TO GET ANOTHER ROD.She doesn't realize she has opened a can of worms on this one and it will never end now! Such is the life of a fisherman. Acey
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#10
Was your suggestion for fifty feet of mono leader a typo or did you really mean fifty feet? I thought somewhere around five feet would be enough. Any one else have thoughts on how much leader is needed? Thanks, Acey
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#11
hey dude i have ran lead core line for years and never put 50' of mono on.. all i do is atach a good swilvel to the end of the lead core then about 5 to 10 feet of 10 to 20 lbs mono leader.. works great for me.. and if you take 50 feet of lead out of your lead core that will take 2 or 3 colors away.. why would you want to do that?

dude on fish?
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#12
I put a drop of Super Glue on the end of the mono before inserting it into the lead core line, after removing a couple inches of lead, and before making the simple overhand knot, and it works great. I'm not sure whether 50' or 5' or somewhere in between is the correct amount of mono, but I use about 35' of 14 pound mono fished this way and it catches fish. Fuzzy -- he is only removing a few inches of lead.
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#13
I have been using leaded line for around 10 years now. I just use a swivel at the end of the leaded line. From there I add pop gear =--> around 3' of leader and the bait, or I have just added 3' of leader and then bait with no pop gear. I will change between worms, flat fish, spinners etc. So far this year I have caught my limit all but twice, and came up only 1 fish short those times. good luck.
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#14
I have used leaded line for over 30 years. I have never used any backing on my leaded line. The amount of mono I use at the end of the line varies with what fish I am after and what lures I am using. If I am fishing for trout and I am using a Carter Spoon, NeedleFish, or similar lure, then I use at least 9 feet of mono after the leaded line. If am using Pop Gear and a worm, I tie the Pop Gear Directly to the leaded line and have only about 6" of mono after the Pop Gear. Sometimes I use Pop Gear with both a worm and a Flat Fish. When I do, I tie the Pop Gear directly to the leaded line followed by a worm on 6" of mono. Then I tie another 2 feet of mono, at the same place that I tied the mono for the worm, and tie a Flat Fish at the end of that 2'. This setup is very deadly on the Strawberry, Deer Creek, and Schoefield. When I use leaded line for walleye, I use 50' of mono, followed by three colors of leaded line, followed by 150' of mono again.

Lloyd
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#15
[red][size 3]Lotz of good suggestions here. I started using spiderwire backer after the thought getting stripped to the last color from a big Fishlake mac. I use about 15 feet of spiderwire leader on the other end tied with the overhand knot method and then a small swivel then mono from there. It takes a little more effort to spool your line out but seems to save on the wear and tear of the end of your leaded line. The biggest word of caution: Do not let your spool get spinning faster than your line is spooling out or you will have the nastiest birdsnest you could ever dream about. I have noticed no difference in the sinking rate or running depth of the different pound lines but the 27 will take up a little more room in your reel. If you are after Kokanee don't forget to add a snubber somewhere in there! [/size][/red]
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#16
If your targeting big fish like macs in deep water, I'd put some backing on, I have backing on all of my reels loaded with lead line and have had to use in on numerous occasions. But if your just going for trout and Kokanee you probably won't need it.
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#17
If you use a swivel to attach a leader to your leadcore, be sure to use one small enough that it will fit through your guides. Otherwise, your leader can't be longer than your rod or you won't be able to net your fish. And a good fish will straighten out a small swivel, which is why the knot is a better alternative.

As for 18# vs 27# leadcore, they both contain the same amount of lead so their sink rates are the same if you're not moving. But since the 27# has a thicker dacron sheath than the 18#, it is thicker. And thicker lines do not achieve the same depths as thinner lines due to friction of the water pulling the line back up to the level of your rod tip. That's why leadcore is so speed dependant--because of the thickness of the line. And that's why your crankbaits will dive deeper using a superline like Fireline than they will with mono.

Check ebay for a reel for your leadcore setup. A Penn 209 would be a good, cheap option. As for the ideal rod, check Bass Pro's application specific rods by Keith Kavajecz and Gary Parsons. If you don't want to buy their leadcore trolling rod, then match the specs and buy local. You should be able to get a good 8' light action trolling rod for about $20.

As for snubbers, I don't use them. They're training wheels for those who don't have good drags or who don't set them right. That's also a common culprit for lost wipers at Willard that you read so much about. You want the drags set tight enough to ensure a good hook set but loose enough so you don't rip the fish's lips off. Even with no-stretch line, the right rod and drag setting make all the difference.
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