Bobber rig - by request

[fishnate]

[left]By request from a prominent member of the BFT, heres my ice fishing bobber rigging demo. Keep in mind this is one rig for panfish but you can upscale it for large trout too. [/left] [center]
Terminal Tackle[/center] [center]
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[/center] [center][/center] [center][inline tackle2.jpg] [/center] [center]Equipment list: 2-6 lb mono, Thill stealth or mini-stealth float, Pear bobber (spring removed) bobber stop sleeves, small swivels, small "bb" sized beads, 20-30 lb dacron, a depth weight, and 1/80 to 1/32 oz jigs.

Rigging

[inline fixed_rig.jpg] [/center] [center]Fixed bobber: insert line through the hole in post, then insert line through bobber stop sleeve, then slide the bobber stop sleeve onto the bobber post. EASY![/center] [center]

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Slip bobber: Insert line through bead, insert line through the bobber post hole (option: or through *swivel eye), tie on lure. Then attach the depth weight and lower rig to desired depth and tie on bobber stop (dacron) using a uniknot.[/center] [center] [/center] [center][/center] [center][inline uni-knot.jpg] [/center] [center]Uni-knot[/center] [center]
*Note: the swivel is used to change bobber sizes more easily and remove it for transport.

The Thill bobbers, swivels, and silcone sleeves were purchased at: [url "http://lindyfishingtackle.com/"]http://lindyfishingtackle.com/[/url] .

By using light line (2-4 lb) you line should feed freely through the bobber/swivel (swivel works best) and the bobber needs to stand straight up when the bobber stop comes to the bobber. When properly weighted the water should come to the white line on the bobber. The ministealth holds 1/80 to 1/64 oz. The stealth holds 1/32 - 1/16 oz. The Pear shaped one holds 1/8 - 3/8 oz.

The good and the bad: [/center] [center]
It does take a few minutes to rig up, but when rigged properly, this type of bobber will indicate when the bait is being touched. If a fish grabs and runs, the bobber goes down with no resistance to the fish so it hangs on longer. If the fish swims up with the bait, the bobber tips on its side. It sits low in the water so wind doesn't affect it. Ice may form on the bobber on really cold days but you can just pinch it off. This rig allows you to return to exactly the same depth everytime with or without electronics. You can suspend a bait inches above a weed bed without snagging. You can switch depth in just a few seconds by sliding the bobber stop. You can actively jig your lure or hang it motionless. If you like larger lures then you either don't use a bobber or you use a larger type like the pear shaped one (pear shaped so it too will tip over when a fish rises with your bait). I removed the spring from the pear bobber and feed the line through the center hole. You could attach a swivel to the clip if you want.

This is not the end all for ice fishing but merely another tool in the tackle box, one that's put a ton of fish on the ice for me. Hope it all makes total sense and helps you out this winter.

Remember to leave a gratuity on the way out.[] [/center] [center][/center] [center][/center] [center][/center] [center][/center] [center][/center] [center][font "Comic Sans MS"][black](edit) added in-line pictures to text BLM
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[DKSRenegade]

Thanks for the information, Fishnate. You did a very good job showing us what you are doing. As they say, one picture is worth a thousand words. I will as you said, add this method to my list of ways to ice fish. This looks like a good way to catch trout. Perch usually take care of hooking themselves. Do you have a preference between meal worms or wax worms?
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[fishnate]

I've never used mealworms. Every time I'll be using either waxworms or spikes (maggots) because I've never, so far as I have seen, been outfished by anyone around me using mealworms. I'm sure mealworms catch plenty of fish but in my opinion the waxies and spikes attract fish more consistently than mealworms.

By the way, don't discount a perch's ability to bite light. High competition, like the old Pineview, between perch is one reason why they often hit aggresively. But if they are in less compact schools, like at Rockport or Deer Creek, they often are very soft on the hit so I keep the bobber handy. If they are hitting hard, no reason to use the bobber.
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[Kent]

Please uncheck the "Inline" box so we call can see your files.
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[BearLakeMack]

[font "Comic Sans MS"][black][size 3]Looks great, Fishnate! I'm sure this will help me and many others catch more fish. The bobber can detect a very light strike as well as a spring bobber on the end of your rod so it's good to know. Thanks for sharing this cool technique![/size][/black][/font]
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[Bowfin]

Great display of the bobber rig, fishnate. I've been using a similar technique for years and can vouch that it will help catch more fish, especially for light biters, and fish that feed up. It's a useful technique to have in your arsenal

One advantage to using a swivel to attach a bobber to your line, or to using the stealth style of bobber is that the "bobber to line" connection stays underwater when jigging, thereby reducing if not eliminating the ice-up problems experienced with an in-line bobber. Ice that builds up on your line can also cause a problem in extreme cold and you have to break it free in order to allow the line through the bobber connection (a minor distraction when you're catching fish). Be sure your bobber stop knot is tight, too, as it can get caught on a freezing rod tip and slip, affecting your bobber position.

The key to this system is to approach "neutral bouyancy". You want your bobber to just barely float so you can detect those light bites. Depending on your terminal rig, a variety of small split shot can come in handy for fine tuning the weight of your rig.

There's nothing like a bobber dancing in an ice hole!
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[Theekillerbee]

Nice writeup fishnate. Thanks for sharing.
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[fish4fish]

thanks for the informative pic post fishnate, i may just have to give it a try this winter
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