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Aside from the weight advantage what does a graphite reel offer that a metal die cast does not? Keep in mind this would be a spinning reel capable of spooling 6 to 10 pound line.

Also what would the pros and cons be.
The outer casing of the reel has no "bearing" on the quality or performance of the reel. As you suggested, the use of graphite is typically a measure for reducing the weight (and raising the price). The "reel deal" is how many bearings are there in the inner workings, and are the primary working parts metal or plastic?

What brand reels are you looking at. Also, what species will you be targeting most? I suspect if you tell us what the final candidates are in your decision making process, you will get opinions...both pro and whatever you are looking at.

In the final analysis, buy the best quality you can fit into your budget (or convince your spouse you can afford). I know you still use and enloy your old tried and true Mitchell 300. The older models were made to last and there are still a lot of them around. But, with today's space age materials you can get smaller reels, at a decent price, that will hold up for many years.

I am still using and nursing along several ultralight Shimanos that I bought in the early eighties. I do all my own reel tuneups and repairs, and each of these reels has been apart many times. Aside from a few bail springs, however, they have been real workhorses and have landed countless fish of many species and some over twenty pounds...on four or six pound line.

Try before you buy, if it is possible. My only unilateral word of advice...DON'T BUY ANY OF THE QUANTUM REELS WITH THE MAROON CASINGS. These are full of plastic parts that don't hold up at all. Also, the drags are terrible. If you plan to catch big fish (who doesn't), you need a good drag system.

Anyone discovered anything new in reels lately that we should know about?
Tube dude is right. Just stay away from the plastic. But even with good high priced reels, on years when I fish four to six days a week, I cant get a spinning reel to last more than two seasons. You may want to send a private message to skeeter2 he has tried them all from $125.00 to $30.00 per reel. I am still waiting to hear if the new mitchell is going to be a workhorse.
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Bottom line - You get what you pay for. Put all your bucks up front now for a reel that will last a lifetime or buy throw aways and put out a lot less every few years and spend the same through the long haul. If you fish a lot, break down, bite the bullet and buy the best you can possible afford. You will never be sorry after the initial sticker shock.[/size][/font]

[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]One other point that was not mentioned. Not all of us are mechcanically inclined to work on reels. Those parts list and little tiny parts and springs that seem impossible to reassemble are not everyone's forte. Buy from a company that has killer customer service. A company that will back it's product will save you a lot of hassle. Shimano has killer customer service. I sent a reel that had a lot of wear and tear on it. It turned out to be out of production and Shimano sent me the updated version FREE OF CHARGE! I have seen many other people with the same situations with Shimano. Shimano, Penn, Abu Garcia, and many others back their products for life. [/size][/font]

[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]You will find most graphites are appealing for light weight and economy. Metal die cast bodies can be either a plus or a minus depending on the material used for the castings. Machined aluminum bodies are by far the toughest but cost the big bucks. Machined interior components are the best. Stainless steel or high quality marine brass being the most desirable. Nylon, graphite, or plastic working parts are mostly for the low end, low use reels.[/size][/font]

[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]You decide what's best for your situation. [/size][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]I've got 8-10 spinners and I never fish them. For me, a baitcaster fits every situation I fish. Most people from around here were brought up on spinning reels and don't know how to use baitcasters plus the learning curve can be a pain in the a$$. For big fish, spinners are, by far, the second choice. You're right, Predator, I agree they just don't hold up to the continually beating of demanding fishing. JMHO........[/size][/font]
Thanks for the info guys. I should have been abit more specific in my question. I have a grocery sack full of the cheap stuff. I wont get into the baitcasting vs spinning reel contraversy here. Man what a can of worms that could be. What I am looking for is a reel that will be dependable and affordable. I have both baitcasting and spinning, but I am replacing a spinning. My question about graphite is how long before it breaks down or can the material take the beating it is going to have to live with.

Now for the inner workings. I have been reparing my own reels for years that I care to think about. Nothing made me less happy that to open a reel and find the insides were made out of model car plastic (I have a bag of that crap also). BLM you are right about paying up front for a good reel. My question would then be (I need to stay in the $60 range less would be better) 4, 5, 6, or 7 bearings. Ive been looking at a Pflueger but have little to no knowlage of these reels. That is why the question of the graphite came up. The one I am interested in has a solid graphite frame with a tooled aluminum spool. So if any of ya know anything about the Pflueger how about sharing.
in case anyone is looking for a good quality reel. i just purchased a finnor reel and it has done quite well. i was sceptical at first since ive been a shimano man since i learned to fish. but i have to say minus a few lubes it has held up real good. one thing ill ask you tube is the drag system. its a spinning reel by the way with a front drag brake. the brake seems to be losing a bit of its tention. what i mean is it clicks when you adjust it and the drag is quite loose all the way till it hits the end of the clicks. then it is a hard turn and that is when the drag really clinches down. i was wondering if there is a method to adjust the drag mechanism so that the middle of the adjustment might be at a point to where the drag is almost locked or at least stiffer than it is now. if this makes sense any help would be great.

happy fishing

Hey, X.......I have no first hand experience with the Fin Nor line of spinning reels. I've used their big game reels, and they do have a reputation for quality. However, the drag problem you are describing makes me wonder if you got a defective reel.

I don't care how much you pay for a reel, if the drag doesn't function smoothly, at all settings, you don't have a good reel. Here are some potential problems to troubleshoot:

1. Missing drag washer. 2. Early wear on drag washers (too many big fish) 3. Lubrication in the drag washer assembly (Don't lube them) 4. Tension spring fatigued or bent, causing uneven pressure on drag washers.

How long have you actually used the reel and how hard have you worked it? If the reel is still fairly new, I would try to get warrantee service or replacement. Might cost you that big musky when it finally hits.

One other word of advice...that I don't always follow myself. When you put up your tackle, loosen the drags on the reels. This helps the drag washers to avoid becoming depressed and losing the effectiveness. There are no psychologists for depressed drag washers. (Boo - Hiss)
I sure got a nice reel in the mail on Saturday, thanks to Ultimate bet. Just need to get the rod now.

Xman I agree with Tube on your drag problem. If it is out of warrentee the drag disk are to not expensive and are easy to replace. The drag syatem is fairly easy to rebuild and not cost prohibative. But if it is a newer reel send to Fin Nor, they are one of the companies that do stand behind their products.
My opinion it don't matter what you buy it can be 30 dollars to 115 dollars and it still won't hold up under constant demand. I try and stick with the 30 to 50 dollar reels, then I just donate to the garbage every two years. If I had a choice of the best real it would be shimano I've used Quantum Diawa Mitchel you name it. The only reel that will last more than a year is the Shimano. I have a Shimano Stratic right now and I have got two hard years on it and it still is a excellent reel. The Stratic is right around 115 dollars but will see if it last another year very doubtful because there all junk.

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