Reel Maintenance

[BearLakeMack]

[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Anyone know of a good source of information for general maintenance of fishing reels? I have a few reels that could stand to be tore down for a good cleaning and lubrication. Some pointers and tips would make this job much simplier. I know there are some definite do's and don'ts. I'm sure there are others that could use this info too. Thanks.[/size][/font]
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[Bassmaster-ND]

[font "Arial"][size 2]The handle 'finger grips' and the thumb bar (which disengages the spool) are areas that attract a build up of bait, grit and body fats. A regular light spray of lubricant will ensure that residue doesn't readily adhere. It will also minimise wear and tear on the two most frequently used parts of your baitcast reel.

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[/size][/font] [font "Arial"][size 2]The level wind worm drive is another important area that is intolerant of residue build up. [/size][/font][font "Arial"][size 2]Ensure that the worm (1), its outer casing and the line guide (2) are clean, and lubricated regularly.
[/size][/font] [font "Arial"][size 2][b][font "Arial"][size 2]The 'pawl', located inside the line guide housing will also attract residue and sometimes surface rust. If this occurs it will not [b][font "Arial"][size 2]track freely in the grooves of the level wind and thus cause considerable damage to the worm drive itself.
[/size][/font][/size][/font][/b][/size][/font][/b] [font "Arial"][size 2][b][font "Arial"][size 2]The pawl can be accessed by unscrewing the cap located at the base of the line guide housing (3). Remove the pawl, clean and lubricate and refit, ensuring that the pawl seats correctly into the worm drive groove.[/size][/font][/size][/font][/b]

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[font "Arial"][size 2]The reel housing can be accessed quite easily by removing the three screws on the handle or crank side of the reel body.
This enables removal of the drive mechanism complete, and the spool.
A very light spray on the circlips around the housing (as shown) and on the spool spindle (1) will ensure continued smooth operation.
Note: The cast brake block mechanism on the spool (2) and the disc braking assembly that it beds into on the opposite side of the reel housing should not be lubricated but simply wiped clean of any dirt or residue. Lubricant in this area will 'increase' friction during operation and considerably reduce the cast distance.[/size][/font]

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[font "Arial"][size 2][b][font "Arial"][size 2]The gears on the drive side of the reel (as shown), if clean, don't require a lot of lubricant.
I[/size][/font]f there is a build up of residue in this area it's advisable to tighten up the drag, blast out any residue with the spray can
[/size][/font][/b] [font "Arial"][size 2][b][font "Arial"][size 2][b][font "Arial"][size 2]pressure, [/size][/font]then shake off any excess lubricant. The use of heavy grease in this area is not recommended as it will inevitably harbour grit and can 'gum' up and break down if exposed to salt water.

Note: On some baitcast models fitted with a broad thumb bar (as in our example) it may be necessary to hold up the thumb bar when relocating the gear/handle housing during reassembly.[/size][/font][/b][/size][/font][/b]
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[Bassmaster-ND]

[font "Arial"][size 2]The most exposed points on your reel are the pivot screws on both sides of the bail arm and the bail roller.
These three areas are not only exposed to salt water, they also become encrusted with fish oil, bits of scale and whatever else collects on your fingers during the course of a days fishing.
In fact, it never does any harm to spray lubricant here at the end of each outing.[/size][/font]

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[font "Arial"][size 2]Two other spots that can benefit from regular lubrication without any dismantling are the [b][font "Arial"][size 2]finger grip on the handle (2) and the [/size][/font]anti-reverse switch (3). [font "Arial"][size 2]On some models this may be located under the body.[/size][/font]

Next, remove the handle assembly and lubricate the bearings/bushes on either side of the reel body and also the handle shaft (1).[/size][/font][/b]

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[font "Arial"][size 2]The anti-reverse mechanism itself is located under the rotor on most models so it is very important to pay particular attention to this area and treat it with a liberal dose of lubricant.[/size][/font]

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[font "Arial"][size 2]Next, undo the drag knob by screwing in an anti-clockwise direction, then remove the spool and lubricate the shaft.

Finally, a light spray of lubricant applied to the drag washers located on top of the spool (1) will ensure they don't rust or bind up and will remain smooth in operation[/size][/font]
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[Bassmaster-ND]

Another note is: WD-40 IS NOT A REEL LUBRICANT AND SHOULD NOT BE USED AS SUCH! WD-40 may take a squeak out of your door hinges but it will also take the life out of your reels. It contains detergents that will not protect your reel and will eat any grease and oil that you reapply.

I strongly reccomend NOT USING WD-40! Before I knew better, I used it once on one of my baitcasting reels and it practicly ruined it![]
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[BearLakeMack]

[font "Comic Sans MS"][size 3]Thanks for the info, Bassmaster-ND! Now I got no excuses now not to clean those reels and get them in tip top shape! Thanks, again! Lord knows Some of my reels need a good cleaning![/size][/font]
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[icehole69]

[]Damn good post, thanks for the detailed info. it should help alot of us out, me for one!!. again thanks.
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[Bassmaster-ND]

No problem guys[cool] Always glad to help!
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[DanielJRioux]

What kind of Lube would you use on Ice fishing reels?
Greese could freeze up and oil will get very thick when it is cold. A graphite lube is best when it gets cold because it keeps protecting your investment, or so I was told. Any ideas?
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[Theekillerbee]

Have you ever used the Hot Sauce lubricant that quantum sells?
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[cat_man]

What should be used for lubricant? Last night I actually took apart 2 of my spinning reels and cleaned them and lubricated them with gun oil. Hopefully I didn't just screw both my reels up!

The label on the gun oil said it could be used for marine things, don't know if that meant something on a boat or what. I used Remington gun oil.
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[PREDATOR]

Cat man, I used to use graphite and teflon lubricants on my reels, never tried gun oil.

Theres a ton of different lubes made for reels out there. All different kinds and flavors.

I use one now. Quantums hot scauce. You can get it anywhere, walmart has it, sportsmans has it, not sure if hooked has it.

As soon as I get a new reel, out comes the hot scauce, then out of the box comes the reel, it gets a good lube, then it goes fishing. After that, regualr cleaning and reaplication of the hot scauce will keep your reel in fine order.

Hot scauce is pretty good stuff. Best I have seen so far. I am sure as the technology advances we will see better products, graphite lubes were a miracle when they came out, hot scauce is the new miracle, next five years, who knows?
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[Bassmaster-ND]

I agree with the [size 1]Quantum hot scauce. Its the best stuff on the market. Works great![/size]
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[DanielJRioux]

Thanks for the tip on the hot sauce, I like hot sauce []! The next time I am at hooked I will ask if they have any.
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[HFT]

Guys If you do not Know what you are doing DO NOT TEAR YOUR REELS APART! there are alot of parts to a reel,even just opening them can send parts everywere. Springs will shoot little parts to places unknown=your reel is history.

Every year I get several reels with monkey affliction.
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[DanielJRioux]

Does that mean I can bring all my monkeyed reels to you so you can clean and fix them? []
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[PREDATOR]

HFT is correct, if you dont know what your doing, and you like your reel, best not take it apart.

However, its not rocket science, and theres only one way to learn. You gotta get in there and do it. I recomend taking your old reel apart. That way if you screw it up its no big deal. You were just going to throw it in the garbage anyways.

Spinning reels blow. They suck to take apart. Stuff goes flying everywhere if you just open it up. But casting reels are designed for removing the face plate and spool without all that crap going nuts on you.

I think the reason they send parts diagrams in the box with your reel is they know we are going to play.
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[HFT]

Here is the kicker. Monkey afflicted reels are usually not worth the cost of fixing (min.$10.00 to fix)and there is usually a part missing which takes 300 months to order in. Good news is that the parts are only a couple bucks if they can be found. I don't mind reel repair but I hate repairing a reel that has been tampered with.
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[DanielJRioux]

I do not have any reels that need fixing, I was just jokeing with ya. You are one person I would trust to fix my reels if they would need it though.
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