How long did it take you to install it Ronald? Liketrolling has one just like that on his boat and yes it does help him catch more fish[
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The actual install wasn't long, but a setback that required a separate trip was stainless steel bolts holding the outboard kicker motor throttle onto the boat must have had red LocTite because they had to be drilled out. Time passed and we forgot the bolt size so I sharpened up a few sizes of drills to bring and extras of each because it was for stainless. I also took a long time with the instructions, so my first time installing this was long.
But, should I ever install another, those times wouldn't exist. I grew up with boats and boating electronics, so I'm experienced with a lot of various boat work.
I also do something that takes a little additional time, but it's worth it on boats for long term reliability and particularly this one because it goes on long trips to Canada and out to sea and salt water is also a consideration.
I make all of my electrical connections impervious to salt water corrosion by soldering them. But, I'm good at that. It's usually not long.
But, I go for reliability rather than a best time.
Take trailer lights for example. Professional services often use "trailer wiring splice connectors" (search term, link below) that quickly and simply squeeze on with pliers. The installer looks good and did it in good time, but troubles come later. As corrosion occurs, frustrating and hard to find intermittent trailer light issues will take much more time than saved with quick splices. Besides, you don't want to be repairing things while on a fishing trip. I don't use those. I solder all connections.
On installing new power outlets for outriggers, I had to clean black oxidation off of the multi stranded copper wires and solder them because this boat gets into salt water environments. Then I filled the outlets with dielectric grease.
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http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&redir...connectors
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I think the install was the same as I did on my kicker motor but mine does not have the extra functions. After seeing one in action on liketrolling's boat, I wish I had waited and got one like this one.
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I wonder if it automatically compensates for wind and other environmental factors that affect trolling speed, the main reason I bought an Xi5 is that it allows you to set an exact trolling speed and makes automatic adjustments.
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I do not think it does. From my understanding, it turns the motor from left to right and varies the speed up or down. I'm sure you have noticed that fish will strike a lure at times when a lure speeds up, slows down or you turn the boat left or right. That is the purpose of this device, to change the speed of the lure, without doing it yourself. You can program this function into the machine, how often you want these actions to occur, every minute, every 2 minutes and so on. The purpose isn't to stay a certain speed but to vary the speed.
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I was thinking it sure would be nice if some manufacturer made an interface to a gasoline outboard motor that integrated with Humminbird like iPilot with an accurate virtual anchor and added hunt and pattern features for trolling. I suspect it will come eventually.
I fly my friend's Air Chair. See photograph.
When it's his turn, I pilot his boat and he is very particular and especially for the starts. He says the professionals have automatic engine throttle controllers that repeat start ups exactly which is important for consistency for doing stunts.
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Same friend got a new kicker outboard and throttle control and wanted his iTroll installed again and won't think about going without iTroll.
This is my second time to install iTroll and it went much quicker.
Then I renewed clean electrical contacts throughout the boat. The boat goes into saltwater in Canada, so I use my methods to not have corrosion on electrical.
My favorite from growing up with boats on the Gulf of Mexico and Atlantic is to solder everything that can be soldered.
I prefer soldered watertight splices with self-vulcanizing rubber over connectors for everything that doesn't need to be taken apart frequently which in the case of my friend are his downriggers, so I took the receptacles apart and cleaned them and put in freshly soldered wires with an electrical contact grease with corrosion inhibitors.
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That's a good talent to have, knowing how to solder, especially with a boat that's in saltwater a lot. Where do you find watertight splices with self-vulcanizing rubber?
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Soldered joints are continuous metal as the solder does more than just stick to the copper -- it dissolves into it. There is no metal to metal just touching where salt water can get in and create galvanic chemical action -- corrosion and poor connectivity in time which is a reliability issue.
A soldered joint lasts. I like it so much, I tend to avoid crimp on terminals unless there is a very good reason to have them. Instead, I even remove the screws from switches and put the bare wire through the hole and solder the wire directly onto the back of the switch.
Platt electric has self-vulcanizing rubber splice tape. Buy 63/37 solder. That's 63% Tin 37% Lead. Soldering is easy. Practice a little and you will do well. Stagger all connections to make the splice thin and longer and not have soldered joints adjacent to each other. This is greater separation. It's important to have clean copper surfaces. You can use ScotchBrite or chemical flux containing zinc chloride. Don't use paste flux. Get liquid flux because it rinses off completely to remove the chemicals. Dry the wires and stretch the rubber self-vulcanizing tape and it sticks to itself and seals the wires tight.
Ronald