09-12-2004, 11:37 AM
[cool][#0000ff]Tube jigs have been a big part of my tackle arsenal since the late 70's, when minijigs and Gitzits were being first introduced by the Garland family. I have used them in all sizes and colors, to catch just about every species of fish in fresh and salt water.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I first used the small tubes to catch large numbers of white bass in Utah Lake. Then, I found them to be quite acceptable to crappies on Willard and Pineview. After that, it was perch and walleye on Deer Creek and Yuba...both in open water and through the ice. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The first "Fat Gitzits" were employed on Powell to drag in lots of largies (olden days), walleyes and stripers. Also got some big crappies on the big tubes. Brought them back to Pineview and Deer Creek, where the largies there loved them too. Then, the walleyes in Utah Lake, Willard and Yuba all cast an approving vote.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Many Utah anglers have come to swear by tubes in different sizes and colors for trout. You can catch almost any species of trout, from any Utah waters, on some size and color of tube jig.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]How do you fish them? That's what separates the knowledgeable folks from the "chuck and chance it" crew. The simplest way is to hang them a few feet under a bobber and let the action of the ripples work the jig for you. Deadly on many species.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]As others have suggested, they are great for vertical presentations, both from boats and float tubes. I use them a lot to jig off the bottom, or to finesse suspended fish after locating them on sonar. Sometimes the fish respond to a lot of jigging. Other times you have to almost "dead stick" them, and just watch the line and rod tip for the slightest change in "the force".[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]If you are trying to represent crawdads, which tubes are great for, you can cast into the shore and lift and drop them down the slope into deeper water, being alert for a "pop on the drop". On other occasions, the fish are looking for an "upslope" presentation, and you will do better casting out into deeper water and then crawling or hopping the tube into the shallows.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Few people take advantage of the fact that tubes can used to simulate minnows too. If you "swim" them, at depths between the bottom and top, you can pick up big fish looking for little fishies. Swimming presentations usually work best if you do not give them a lot of hopping motion, but just reel them in. If anything, you can move your rod tip back and forth, to make the jig change directions, or vary the speed of the retrieve.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Wherever perch spawn in the early spring, there will be clouds of little perch fry in the shallows and around structure by June. I do well by fishing a 1 1/2" to 2" smoke sparkle minitube, on a 1/32 to 1/16 oz head, and swimming it just off the bottom. I also "decorate" the little baits with a permanent black marker. I make a thin line down the back and three little vertical bars along the sides. Everything in the lake will eat baby perchlets.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]When fishing large tubes, I use the lightest head I can get away with. This might mean fishing without weight, in very shallow water (Utah Lake). In deeper water a 1/32 or 1/16 oz head is often plenty. The key is to get the tube to fall slowly and to spiral as it drops. That is a natural presentation that drives bass nuts. It is the key to the success of such plastics as the Senko and imitators. Use too much weight and the bait plummets unnaturally to the bottom. It is also less likely to pique the curiosity of nearby predators.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Tubes are great baits for casting into boils. Fling them beyond the action and then rip them across the top, or slightly under the surface. Sometimes it is good to stop the retrieve and let them drop below the froth. Often larger fish hang out deeper to pick off the crippled bait fish or those that try to escape by diving down.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]One of the most effective presentations for many jigs, and especially tubes, is to fish them for a reaction bite, when fish are suspending and not active. Once you sonar up some fishies, back off and cast your tube jig beyond them. Let it sink to the bottom and then reel it up through the fish at an angle...fairly fast. This works on many predatory species. Apparently they are like cats. They can't stand to see a potential meal slipping away from them, even if they are not actively feeding. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]This method is especially effective on stripers, white bass and wipers. It also works on suspending largies and smallies. It can even wake up cruising trout of several species.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Other times, especially with crappies, you need to drop the tube to the exact depth the fish are hanging, and then reel at exactly the right speed to keep the lure just above the level of the fish. They will sometime rise a short distance to take the jig, but they will almost never dive to take one cruising by below them. This requires good sonar, a delicate touch and good tackle that you know very well. It is "finesse fishing" at it's finest. And, tube jigs are about the best way to do it.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Bill Dance made a statement on one of his shows that has really stayed with me. He observed that jigs are unlike almost any other lure. With spinners, crankbaits and other action lures, you just "chunk and wind" them, letting the lure provide all the action. When you fish jigs, you are totally responsible for everything that happens on the business end of your line. You have to know your quarry and your lures, and then provide the action it takes to bring them together.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]But, that's just my brief and humble observation.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I first used the small tubes to catch large numbers of white bass in Utah Lake. Then, I found them to be quite acceptable to crappies on Willard and Pineview. After that, it was perch and walleye on Deer Creek and Yuba...both in open water and through the ice. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The first "Fat Gitzits" were employed on Powell to drag in lots of largies (olden days), walleyes and stripers. Also got some big crappies on the big tubes. Brought them back to Pineview and Deer Creek, where the largies there loved them too. Then, the walleyes in Utah Lake, Willard and Yuba all cast an approving vote.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Many Utah anglers have come to swear by tubes in different sizes and colors for trout. You can catch almost any species of trout, from any Utah waters, on some size and color of tube jig.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]How do you fish them? That's what separates the knowledgeable folks from the "chuck and chance it" crew. The simplest way is to hang them a few feet under a bobber and let the action of the ripples work the jig for you. Deadly on many species.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]As others have suggested, they are great for vertical presentations, both from boats and float tubes. I use them a lot to jig off the bottom, or to finesse suspended fish after locating them on sonar. Sometimes the fish respond to a lot of jigging. Other times you have to almost "dead stick" them, and just watch the line and rod tip for the slightest change in "the force".[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]If you are trying to represent crawdads, which tubes are great for, you can cast into the shore and lift and drop them down the slope into deeper water, being alert for a "pop on the drop". On other occasions, the fish are looking for an "upslope" presentation, and you will do better casting out into deeper water and then crawling or hopping the tube into the shallows.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Few people take advantage of the fact that tubes can used to simulate minnows too. If you "swim" them, at depths between the bottom and top, you can pick up big fish looking for little fishies. Swimming presentations usually work best if you do not give them a lot of hopping motion, but just reel them in. If anything, you can move your rod tip back and forth, to make the jig change directions, or vary the speed of the retrieve.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Wherever perch spawn in the early spring, there will be clouds of little perch fry in the shallows and around structure by June. I do well by fishing a 1 1/2" to 2" smoke sparkle minitube, on a 1/32 to 1/16 oz head, and swimming it just off the bottom. I also "decorate" the little baits with a permanent black marker. I make a thin line down the back and three little vertical bars along the sides. Everything in the lake will eat baby perchlets.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]When fishing large tubes, I use the lightest head I can get away with. This might mean fishing without weight, in very shallow water (Utah Lake). In deeper water a 1/32 or 1/16 oz head is often plenty. The key is to get the tube to fall slowly and to spiral as it drops. That is a natural presentation that drives bass nuts. It is the key to the success of such plastics as the Senko and imitators. Use too much weight and the bait plummets unnaturally to the bottom. It is also less likely to pique the curiosity of nearby predators.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Tubes are great baits for casting into boils. Fling them beyond the action and then rip them across the top, or slightly under the surface. Sometimes it is good to stop the retrieve and let them drop below the froth. Often larger fish hang out deeper to pick off the crippled bait fish or those that try to escape by diving down.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]One of the most effective presentations for many jigs, and especially tubes, is to fish them for a reaction bite, when fish are suspending and not active. Once you sonar up some fishies, back off and cast your tube jig beyond them. Let it sink to the bottom and then reel it up through the fish at an angle...fairly fast. This works on many predatory species. Apparently they are like cats. They can't stand to see a potential meal slipping away from them, even if they are not actively feeding. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]This method is especially effective on stripers, white bass and wipers. It also works on suspending largies and smallies. It can even wake up cruising trout of several species.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Other times, especially with crappies, you need to drop the tube to the exact depth the fish are hanging, and then reel at exactly the right speed to keep the lure just above the level of the fish. They will sometime rise a short distance to take the jig, but they will almost never dive to take one cruising by below them. This requires good sonar, a delicate touch and good tackle that you know very well. It is "finesse fishing" at it's finest. And, tube jigs are about the best way to do it.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Bill Dance made a statement on one of his shows that has really stayed with me. He observed that jigs are unlike almost any other lure. With spinners, crankbaits and other action lures, you just "chunk and wind" them, letting the lure provide all the action. When you fish jigs, you are totally responsible for everything that happens on the business end of your line. You have to know your quarry and your lures, and then provide the action it takes to bring them together.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]But, that's just my brief and humble observation.[/#0000ff]
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