V-tube vs. U-tube

[jnbsigma]

So currently I'm sporting a U-boat 2000 which has been pretty nice for my limited tubing experience. I haven't tried any higher-end V-type tubes (ODC 420, H3, FC, SFC, etc), but I've tried a few different U-tubes and a round one (that I'll sell anyone for $20 obo if they want). I'm kinda warming up to the idea of an upgrade from what I've heard so far from the more experienced tubers. I had a couple questions, however, that maybe those more experienced persons could answer for me.

I understand that the back support on a V-tube isn't quite as good as a U-tube (I can even rest my head back on the back of the UB2k if I slide by hind end forward enough). How is the support on the V-tubes? Is it worth sacrificing a little support for the added luxuries of better quality, mobility, etc. that the V-tubes offer?

Also, it looks like the U-tubes all sit quite a bit lower in the water than the V-tubes. Would this cause a problem if I tried to mount a finder on my U-boat? I realize that the units themselves are usually all waterproof, but what about the batteries? The pockets on my U-tube are definately not waterproof--somewhat resistant at best. I'm new to the whole fishfinder thing, but am anxious to join the fun. Any advice would be most welcome!
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[TubeDude]

[cool][#0000bf]Not all V-tubes are built the same. My Super Fat Cat definitely has a back rest that is TOO LOW. I modified it by making a PVC frame to stick down on either side of the back rest, with a cross bar at the height of my upper back. Gets the job done, but the manufacturers need to address that issue.[/#0000bf]
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[#0000bf]You can mount a fish finder on any model tube or toon. If you go over to the picture board, there are quite a few pics and ideas to work with. The main thing is to secure the display safely and conveniently on top. You can use PVC contraptions, strap mounts, velcro or whatever works.[/#0000bf]
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[#0000bf]Same for the batteries. The SLA batteries we use are sealed and will not suffer from a little moisture. However, you do not want to immerse them while hooked up to your sonar. Conductivity of water, shorting out and all that. Stow them in the back of a pocket. No need to worry about keeping them upright, like with an acid filled battery with caps.[/#0000bf]
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[#0000bf]Keep looking through some of the past posts included in the Best of the Best and on the picture board. You should get a better feel for how simple it is and then develop a basic game plan. We will be happy to help you get it together.[/#0000bf]
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[jnbsigma]

Thanks again for the tip TubeDude. So the PVC does a good support job for ya, does it? It's good to know that if I end up getting something that doesn't quite have it all, there's always PVC to the rescue!

By the way, I think I've decided on getting the Eagle Cuda 242. From what I can tell, it's just a slightly higher-pixelated version of the 168 which has some pretty good reviews around here. Cabelas actually has them for less than the 168's up in the Lehi store ($80 compared to $100). The only thing I haven't decided on quite yet is whether or not to spend just a bit more and get a sonar like the Eagle FishEasy 250 or the Lowrance X50DS that have the dual-search beams and are also in the $100-range. Do you think it'd be worth $20-$30 extra bucks to get the dual-beam for shallow-water tubing?
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[TubeDude]

[cool][#0000bf]One of the good things about the sonar industry is that it is like most other things electronic. They keep getting better and cheaper over time.[/#0000bf]
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[#0000bf]There are always new models coming along and I have not had the time, money or inclination to keep checking all of them out. But, as a general rule, if they are made by a reputable name in the industry, and if they have the options you want, in your price range, you can be comfortable buying it. Once you get accustomed to using it, and can appreciate the differences in more advanced stuff, then you are better qualified to make a new decision.[/#0000bf]
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