03-11-2008, 10:26 PM
[cool][size 3][blue] [font "Times New Roman"]Here is how I set up the sonar on my new Super Fat Cat.[/font][/blue][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][blue][size 3] [/size][/blue][/font] [ol] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]I already had the transducer shaft put together.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]I also had the cheap PVC “ram mount” put together for the display unit. But, I am including some pics for those who might wonder about the components.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]A new “twist” was to wrap all of the extra sonar cable into a small circle and then secure it with a “zip tie” in the middle. Then, I put one end loop over the vertical PVC shaft of the “ram mount” and zip tied the other end of the wire bunch to the wood block. This keeps the extra wire secure, out of the way and does not take much space in the pocket. It also leaves the “drink holder” flap on the front of the pocket available for…well…drinks.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]I firmly attached the 7 1/2 inch wide (2”X 2”) wood anchor block inside the front left pocket of the tube…with the PVC shaft at the far left. I used 2” drywall screws, with small washers to keep the screws from going through the fabric of the pocket. Two or three CAREFULLY placed screws (on each side) will anchor the block firmly for attachment of other things…like the “bait riggers”. HINT: Keep the tube partially deflated to make installation of the wood blocks easier.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]I ran the single wire for the battery connection back inside the main pocket and through a small opening into the rear pocket. That’s where I setup the small 4.4 A/H battery to run the sonar. The pocket is too small for a larger battery, but that one works fine for low wattage sonars.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]When I installed the left side rod holder (bait rigger), I left a length of 1/2 inch PVC extending to the edge of the tube, to allow easy attachment and removal of the transducer shaft. Since the connection is not glued, it also allows for easy rotation…up for launching and beaching and down for sonar operation. Mounted this way it works great, since it will automatically rotate the transducer up away from the bottom if you forget to bring it up when you come back in.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]The sonar display attaches and detaches easily too. I keep mine inside the pocket when transporting the tube and only install it when setting up ready to fish. Again, because the connections are not glued, the display can be easily rotated back and forth on the PVC shaft, and you can use the mounting bracket adjustments to rotate it up and down. Works as good as the $35 ram mounts you can buy for boat mounting.[/blue][/size][/font][/li][/ol]
[signature]
[font "Times New Roman"][blue][size 3] [/size][/blue][/font] [ol] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]I already had the transducer shaft put together.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]I also had the cheap PVC “ram mount” put together for the display unit. But, I am including some pics for those who might wonder about the components.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]A new “twist” was to wrap all of the extra sonar cable into a small circle and then secure it with a “zip tie” in the middle. Then, I put one end loop over the vertical PVC shaft of the “ram mount” and zip tied the other end of the wire bunch to the wood block. This keeps the extra wire secure, out of the way and does not take much space in the pocket. It also leaves the “drink holder” flap on the front of the pocket available for…well…drinks.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]I firmly attached the 7 1/2 inch wide (2”X 2”) wood anchor block inside the front left pocket of the tube…with the PVC shaft at the far left. I used 2” drywall screws, with small washers to keep the screws from going through the fabric of the pocket. Two or three CAREFULLY placed screws (on each side) will anchor the block firmly for attachment of other things…like the “bait riggers”. HINT: Keep the tube partially deflated to make installation of the wood blocks easier.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]I ran the single wire for the battery connection back inside the main pocket and through a small opening into the rear pocket. That’s where I setup the small 4.4 A/H battery to run the sonar. The pocket is too small for a larger battery, but that one works fine for low wattage sonars.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]When I installed the left side rod holder (bait rigger), I left a length of 1/2 inch PVC extending to the edge of the tube, to allow easy attachment and removal of the transducer shaft. Since the connection is not glued, it also allows for easy rotation…up for launching and beaching and down for sonar operation. Mounted this way it works great, since it will automatically rotate the transducer up away from the bottom if you forget to bring it up when you come back in.[/blue][/size][/font][/li] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][blue]The sonar display attaches and detaches easily too. I keep mine inside the pocket when transporting the tube and only install it when setting up ready to fish. Again, because the connections are not glued, the display can be easily rotated back and forth on the PVC shaft, and you can use the mounting bracket adjustments to rotate it up and down. Works as good as the $35 ram mounts you can buy for boat mounting.[/blue][/size][/font][/li][/ol]
[signature]
] and I want to thank you as well for all you do[
]