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I have done some fishing with Spiderwire Stealth Braid and am satisfied with the way the line casts. Today, I seen an add for [url "http://www.spiderwire.com/prod.php?k=364065&sk=50685&p=PURSU10G-12520(1124841)"]Spiderwire Ultracast[/url]. It is some very pricy stuff ($21 for a 125 yd. spool) but Spiderwire claims that it is "... the BEST braided fishing line ever made PERIOD!"
Have any of you used it? Would you recommend it?
I actually had a brand new reel spooled up with it on a brand new rod. I had never casted it yet when I handed it to a guy that I had taken with me to Strawberry. I said "Here, give this a try". On the second cast, somehow the rod/reel got away from him and two seconds later it's on the bottom of the lake! He felt pretty bad ... poor guy. I sure was looking forward to giving that Ultracast a try but I never got to. Not to mention, the rod and reel. Brand new ... the whole combo ... in the drink! He has since replaced both the rod and the reel but I just couldn't bring myself to telling him what line was spooled on the reel.
Anyway, have any of you used Ultracast superline?
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Well, it sounds like you handled your pole being deep sixed well. I use reg spiderwire on some of my poles too but I haven't been able to talk myself into any line that cost over $16 bucks per reel set up. I take too many kids and adults "new" to fishing that use my equipment. Good on ya for letting him borrow your pole. Even if he did take it for a swim.
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LOL That's too funny! You're a generous guy! I keep laughing because all I can think of is:
[indent][font "Comic Sans MS"][#0000bf][size 4]-- All expense paid, and all equipment supplied, boat fishing trip on Strawberry on Friday, October 29th (weather permitting) in my boat[/size][/#0000bf][/font]
I found this article helpful on lines it's a bit wordy but worth the read. You can just read the parts about the line you're interested in using. He raves about Spiderwire, I'm leaning towards the Excaliber line.
The link is:
http://www.bassdozer.com/articles/crawfo...nes1.shtml
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Just to set the facts straight, it wasn't ole Fishkillr that gave my combo it's deep water barial. It was a week before the "all expense paid" trip that it got thrown in the lake.
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Wow you liked how the Stealth casted? I think casting light lures with it is downright impossible. A 1/16 oz jig will not go far at all. But heavier stuff it works good. Hooksets can be bizarre though at first. Of course I had the 50lb stealth, maybe that's the issue. haha.
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My question is are all braided lines created equal? My friends use Fireline, I use Spiderwire but I have struggled with keeping lures on the line, it has become apparent that you have to use a different knot with braided than you do with mono. But when you do get a knot tight, I love that when you snag a tree you can pull the whole tree down and retrieve your lure rather than snapping your line, and the casting range and lack of line memory is great. Anybody else had this same issue?
Also what is the difference between mono, fluorocarbon, and superlines? Is braided the same as a superline? Is fluoro the same as mono? I've always preferred mono because I can tie a tight knot, and I like the stretch that comes from mono. Anyways what do ya'll think?
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Thanks for setting that straight coot. Ivan and I had nothing to do with the pole over board. That was the trip before us. I actually have a friend that uses that line....I sent him a PM and told him to chime in, we will see if he does. I think he likes it, but it is $$$$....woudl be worth it if it is all it claims tho.
Shawn M
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Good comments and questions HATH.
Fireline is is more abrasive to eyelet guides than Spiderwire ... at least that is what I think because Fireline is so noisy coming through the guides.
And yes, you do have to make sure you use a knot that works with these slipery superlines. The knot that the manufactures recommend for superlines is the palomar knot. On the back of a package of Spiderwire EZ Braid, it even has instructions on how to tie the palomar knot. I use to use that knot on braids but since I only tie braided (super) line to leader, I just use the double-uni knot.
Monofilament: Soft plastic line. I only use mono as backing on my reels anymore. I believe that is nicks and breaks too easily, and the sun degrades and causes it to crack. But I know one very good fisherman here on BFT that fishes with it and he has given braids a good chance and still goes back to mono. Mono stretches more than fluorocarbon or braided. Walleye fishermen like that stretch as do kokane fishermen. But for the kind of fishing I do, I hate that stretch.
Fluorocarbon: Still a plastic line but much more abrasive resistant. It is made up of "strands" of plastic. If you scrape it with a sharp knife, it might seem a little bit like fiberglass. The manufactures tout it as "invisible". But many guys question that claim. Fluoro is more abrasive restistant than mono but not as abrasive resistant as braided. I use it for leader because it might be invisible under water and because it is more resistant to abrasion. The larger the diameter, the harder it is to tie knots with Fluoro.
Braided: Also called super lines ... pretty much the same thing. Most are made of Kevlar or Kevlar like material. Some are fused braids and some are coated with a Teflon like material for smoother casting. Unlike mono, [url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=559786#p559786"]braids have very little stretch[/url]. What ever is happening at the end of your line can be felt right in your rod and hand.
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Coot,
Are you actually planning on casting (crankbaits, spinnerbaits, etc.) with the Stealth Braid, or just casting out a tube jig with it? I've used the very original Spider Wire that I purchased back in 1993. I still have it on my ice fishing reel and I still can't break the stuff after 16 years!!! I use the braid to troll and have found out it has resulted in a better percentage of hooking fish since there is no stretch. I've also tried several of the other super braids, and found that I keep coming back to Spider Wire (except the sheathed stuff). I've used Rip Cord, Fireline, and Powerpro.
If it was me I'd fork over $40 for the 300 yard spool instead of $21 for 125 yards. That way you can fill two reels and justify to yourself that it only cost $20. Plus, the line should last several seasons. Considering you have a WHOLE lot more $$ tied up in a boat, truck, gas, tackle, etc. Line to me is extremely important and worth the cost. However, I still CANNOT and WILL NOT fork over $15-$20 for a LuckyCraft Pointer. No way, no how! LOL
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At Strawberry last week, we had a reel of braided line, Fireline I believe, freeze in the reel.
I guess the fibers collected enough moisture to freeze the line in the reel. The other reels with fluoros did not have the problem.
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[quote Old_Coot]I have done some fishing with Spiderwire Stealth Braid and am satisfied with the way the line casts. Today, I seen an add for [url "http://www.spiderwire.com/prod.php?k=364065&sk=50685&p=PURSU10G-12520(1124841)"]Spiderwire Ultracast[/url]. It is some very pricy stuff ($21 for a 125 yd. spool) but Spiderwire claims that it is "... the BEST braided fishing line ever made PERIOD!"
Have any of you used it? Would you recommend it?
Anyway, have any of you used Ultracast superline?[/quote]
The Spiderwire easy cast is really good stuff. I really really like the Lucky craft braid as well. Spiderwire is really smooth and cast great. Not as supple as others but still reallly good stuff.
I have heard the new suffix braid is really good stuff from friends of mine but havent used it as of yet (Dam^ Ice).
Here is link about it.
http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/icast10.h...ode=SUF832
I would stay away from fireline. it doesnt keep its shape and starts to fall apart fairly quickly making it a little harder to cast
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[quote HATH]My question is are all braided lines created equal? My friends use Fireline, I use Spiderwire but I have struggled with keeping lures on the line, it has become apparent that you have to use a different knot with braided than you do with mono. But when you do get a knot tight, I love that when you snag a tree you can pull the whole tree down and retrieve your lure rather than snapping your line, and the casting range and lack of line memory is great. Anybody else had this same issue?
Also what is the difference between mono, fluorocarbon, and superlines? Is braided the same as a superline? Is fluoro the same as mono? I've always preferred mono because I can tie a tight knot, and I like the stretch that comes from mono. Anyways what do ya'll think?[/quote]
Answer to your knot question. Make sure you either use a polymar knot or Trilene knot. Both really really easy to tie. Some types of braid could also use a dab of superglue as well.
Mono, Fluorocarbon, Coplymer and Superlines.
Mono- This is old school line. It does have its place for only a couple applications, but it has poor sensitivity and stretches wayyyy too much for most applications.
Fluorocarbon- Great line for clear water conditions. Downside is cost, stiffness of the line and if you kink the line it will cause a weak spot and break.
Copolymer- This is a blend of Nylon and Mono. I feel its by far the best all around line for cost, durability, strength and applications. There are several good brands available. Most of which NONE of the local tackleshops carry. Mostly trout crap that has been around for years
Braid/Superlines- From the days of Dacron/ Spectra/Kevlar these lines have come a long way. About every style you can think of anymore. Everyone has their preference for sure. For some applications braid wont work since it has absolutely 0 stretch and when you are fishing crankbaits, jerkbaits you need some give. That being said, for jigs or spoons the sensitivity cant be matched. As you mentioned the knots can be an issue. The standard clinch or improved clinch doesnt cut it at all. The fibers are too stiff and rigid. It is also fairly pricey, but it does last a lot longer than about any other line, ESPECIALLY mono.
The average Joe freaks out on the price of some of the higher priced brands. I can say from personal experience for the most part the quality lines are worth the price once you get out and actually use them for more than dunking a ball of powerbait [  ]
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"when you are fishing crankbaits, jerkbaits you need some give."
? How do you pull a snip-it from one post and paste in the box on your post? That's my attempt above.
Anyways why do you say you need some give with the crank and jerkbaits? Again isn't sensitivity of the bite what we're after? Mono will stretch, therefore "masking" the bite.
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[quote HATH]"when you are fishing crankbaits, jerkbaits you need some give."
? How do you pull a snip-it from one post and paste in the box on your post? That's my attempt above.
Anyways why do you say you need some give with the crank and jerkbaits? Again isn't sensitivity of the bite what we're after? Mono will stretch, therefore "masking" the bite.[/quote]
Hit the "Quote" in the post you are wanting to reply to. Then type under the text that will automatically appear when the screen refreshes.
to answer your question on cranks and jerkbaits. Yes you do need some give to them, simply by having a lure moving fast, if you pull even semi hard the opposite way, often times you'll rip the hooks right out of the mouth.
If i'm fishing with cranks or jerkbaits I use a copolymer line for the most part or Fluorocarbon, depending on the application and conditions.
For a rod action you do not want anything with anything higher than a mod-fast action. I prefer a moderate. The softer tip allows easier casting with lighter lures and you can almost feel the fish inhale your bait.
Keep in mind that good rods have come a long way in technology. Lots of bait dunkers dont understand the huge difference in rod action, let alone the price. You can pick up a quality rod with a warranty for less than $100 now. That makes it so you can fish hard and if the rod breaks you send it back and get a brand spankin new one [ ]
Like i mentioned in my first response. I use copolymer for 90% of applications. Everyone fishes differently which means you have to adjust accordingly. Most of the time we get used to what we use all the time and dont see a reason to change.
If you are just dunking a ball of powerbait or trolling, the line matters some, but the rod doesnt make hardly a bit of difference.
If you fish with crankbaits, jerkbaits, jigs,tube jigs, senko type baits, spinnerbaits, drop shot rigs etc. you need quality gear. you dont have to spend 400 a rod like some idiots do, but you do need quality stuff. Most rods should be fast action tips to extra fast, again depending on the application (crankbaits, Jerkbaits, topwater). Also gotta have different rod lengths. Most guys can get away with rods from 6'6' to 7' for about everything and I feel you need to do and Medium to Medium Heavy action rods.
Most fish inhale a lure despite what most people think so you gotta have sensitive equipment to feel it. Truth be known for every fish you actually feel hit there is probably another 3 you didnt feel. ( not talking to you directly ).
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What about Ice Fishing line? Whats the best for that?
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[quote Beast84086]What about Ice Fishing line? Whats the best for that?[/quote]
ya know in the past i have always used Berkley Micro Ice line. I see there is a new one out by Sufix this year that has great reviews. In the past i have always tied on a piece of Flurocarbon to the bottom 18"-24" of my line, especially in clear water. Not sure if it makes a huge difference but i have noticed when the bite gets tough have invisible line and downsizing lures seems to really help.
For Strawberry the best jig EVER made was called a "Pocket Hopper". It was made by Mister Twister and I havent seem them anywhere for sale in probably 10 years or more. I have outfished guys 20-1 at Strawberry with them.
I have a few laying around i think. Maybe if i got motivated i could have someone make a mold to pour some. Not sure what that would cost but last time i checked it was about $200 hahaha.....
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