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You can also add continuing to reel a spinning reel when the drag is spinning (all one is accomplishing is twisting the line).
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04-18-2021, 06:36 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-18-2021, 06:43 PM by doitall5000.)
Great advice Robert, something to be doing when you can't get out.
Checking all my equipment is important at the beginning of the year.
New line , lube the reals, and especially the motors.
Old tires can really spoil the trip.
I even lubed the bearings and new buddies on the bearings.
If I neglected my batteries, I'll pay big time.
It's interesting, about paying for Gas I've always said it costs a lot more to go fishing than just gas.
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What can you do to correct the loose nut on the rod handle?
No matter how sharp we think we are...and how good our equipment...when we hook a big fish even the coolest angler becomes a rookie again. More bigguns are lost within a few feet of being netted...for bonehead reasons...than at almost any other part of the battle. How do I know? Don't ask.
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04-19-2021, 03:08 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-19-2021, 06:18 PM by Big Sky.)
Common mistakes I see a lot are knots tied incorrectly. Forgetting to wet your line before tying your knots which results in line burn when you cinch it down. That usually results in line breakage shortly after. Aside from knots the most common thing I see is the wrong size line for the size of fish that are targeted. Most of the time the line is way too heavy. Nobody needs 15 to 25 pound line to catch bluegills and 12" trout, but you see it all the time. I think it's because they use whatever line the reel came with when they bought it. The inverse is true as well. Using 2- 4 pound line when fishing for large fish over 4 pounds or in heavy cover is a short trip to heart break. Lastly, there is a large percentage of fishermen that don't understand that it's not entirely about line weight so much as it is about line diameter. Smaller diameter with a high break weight is usually more desirable than a large diameter line with a high break weight. Small diameter will cast further and generally be less visible to the fish. Just something to think about.
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04-19-2021, 03:54 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-19-2021, 04:01 PM by Mildog.)
Good info and worth utilizing “before” you are on the water.
Another tip I will add is setting your drag properly, before you find out its wrong!!
You can give it a quick check by simply pulling out some line. If you fish enough and are familiar with your equipment it can get you set where you need it to be before it’s too late. Sometimes it’s good to test the drag with someone holding the line then check the drag when there is resistance and load through the rod. It does make a big difference and will help you land more fish with less break offs.
The tip on not reeling with the drag slipping and the reel spinning as posted earlier is a very common mistake, as mentioned it will make a big mess of your line in a hurry with serious line twist. On a high speed spinning reel you introduce 5 to 7 twists in the line for every turn of the handle when the drag is slipping. This is not a problem on casting reels but you won’t get the fish in if the drag is slipping. When I take less experienced fishers out, I tell them to think of using the rod to bring the fish in and the reel to bring in your line, don’t try to just crank the fish in. Seems to help them do better.
time spent fishing isn't deducted from ones life
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Yes, you can set your drag too light. This winter I lightened mine up in anticipation of catching a big fish. When I got the bite and jerked my rod up to set the hook in the boney jaw all I got was the rotor spinning rapidly. The fish came unbuttoned halfway up. Experience helps. I plan to experiment with changing drag with a fish on this summer.
The older I get the more I would rather be considered a good man than a good fisherman.
