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Rigging corkies behind the hook
#1
Got this idea from the hair rigs carp anglers use.

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What I did was first tie a very small overhand loop knot at one end of the leader. Then I fed the loop through the corky and threaded the end of the leader through the loop and pulled it tight. Thread the line through the eye of the hook and position the corky just behind the bend of the hook. Attach the hook using either an egg loop snell or no knot snell/knotless knot.

If you want to attach some yarn, push the corky up and you will get enough loose line to tie your yarn to the line either in front or behind the corky. You can also put some yarn or bait in the egg loop.

I haven't tested it yet, but I think this setup will offer some significant advantages over the traditional method. First, it does not require pegging to keep the corky near the hook, which may damage your line. The corky can't slide up your leader, which means less chance of the hook dragging bottom and getting snagged. It doesn't require any modification of the corky. No drilling, enlarging the hole or anything like that. It can't foul around the hook point. Ever had a cast where the leader got into the bend and the hook ended up wrapped around the corky? Say goodbye to that mess. The hook point is fully exposed when the fish grabs the rig. No big round chunk of styrofoam covering part of the hook gap.

The only diSadvantage I can think of is it's not aw easy to change colors, but you could always snip the corky off and thread one on the leader the usual way if it comes down to that.

It should also work for other non-spinning drift bobbers like cheaters and foam balls, though for ones without holes you'll need to get a bait needle to thread the line through.

What do you think?
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#2
I like the idea but the proof is in the pudding! One of the problems that I can see with it is having the target that a fish is going to hone in on behind the hook point. I am not an expert by any means and I 'm going to give this a try just to see what happens hopefully some of the other people on here have tried this and they can let us all know. I think that it will do great on keeping your hook out of rocks and sticks. Please let us know how it works out for you!
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#3
I would agree with the short strike comment on those not so committed fish. Sometimes I'll tie a double hook setup with the corkie in between the two hooks, just add a nice glob of your favorite cured eggs to the baitloop on the top hook and hang on. Back in the day you used to be able to buy a premade setup like you made for flossing sockeye............
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#4
me too!




cheater set-up > double #4's on 10lb test
If roe isn't getting hits, throw a sandshrimp in that top loop

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these cheaters are made of soft styrofoam. The theroy is a steelhead will hold it in it's mouth longer and not just spit it out thinking it's just a rock or something else hard and not edible.

The main Drawback is that many times after catching a fish or just a good hard hit, you need to change out the whole rig because I've yet to figure out a way to just replace the broken of crushed cheater
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#5
One of the reasons I pin a corkie on my leader for steelhead and salmon rigs is to hold the egg loop knot, and whatever bait I am using, nice and snug to the hook. Not sure how much roe or shrimp a person would lose not having it pinned with a corkie.
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#6
I guess it depends on how the roe is cured, I often use no corkie at all and just freedrift my roe or sand shrimp offering right along the bottom with just enough split shot to barely keep it down.

I've never noticed any problem of stuff falling out of my loops [crazy] I guess a bobber stopper is what I'd use if I did?
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#7
Osprey How about using braces rubber bands?
[:/]
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#8
I've thought of that and have some, but like I said, I've never had a problem with light line egg loops holding my bait. I use 10-14 wraps on the shank of the hook before I throw the line back thru the Eye for the bottom 6 wraps, this gives the bait more room against the shank, not to get crushed, even on size 4 octys. I use maxima ultra or a few different fluorocarbons on my rigs. I never pull the egg loop tight ~ I just softly snug it up as to not crush through the bait and I try to never get human scent on the line or bait, so I often wear latex gloves when handling the bait. I always use latex when I'm curing and preparing my roe.

*I have a bunch of sizes of those little rubber bands that I use when building my sage fly rods.
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