Fish Finder Battery Connections

[kandersonSLC]

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[font "Calibri"]Shorting a battery on a ‘toon could be a recipe for disaster. The last two years I’ve connected fish finder battery using alligator clips but they often got wet or came off during classic fish fights. [/font][font "Calibri"] [/font]
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[font "Calibri"]Started with these connectors, soldered them to battery terminals, sealed terminals with Shoe Goo, and then covered them with Gorilla tape. Added these standards connectors to both batteries, fish finder, and charger, so quick and solid connections all around. [/font]
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[OldTroller]

That's similar to how I did it but without as much attention to detail. Nice job.
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[kandersonSLC]

Thanks. I also added a 3 amp marine-grade fuse going to the fish finder. Gotta do something to keep busy waiting for ice-off.
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[flygoddess]

Very nice. We have been doing this for the past 15 years or so. Small one is sonar, big one motor.



When not using the motor, we also have the small connecter on the small security battery.
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[kandersonSLC]

So you are running both motor and sonar off the same battery? I tried that once but had too much interference on sonar. I've thought of trying a choke coil or other shielding but haven't gotten around to it.

Can you explain further -- "When not using the motor, we also have the small connector on the small security battery." Does this mean you do use a smaller 12v battery for sonar?
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[flygoddess]

[quote kandersonSLC]So you are running both motor and sonar off the same battery? I tried that once but had too much interference on sonar. I've thought of trying a choke coil or other shielding but haven't gotten around to it.

Can you explain further -- "When not using the motor, we also have the small connector on the small security battery." Does this mean you do use a smaller 12v battery for sonar?[/quote]



Never a problem with interference. The sonar is run off the main battery in a boat too. We have had several sonars too, with no problem.

As for smaller battery, when doing hike ins (or down to as in LD) we try to keep it as light as possible. So we have several 12V rechargeables.


Middle one being the normal rechargeable most people buy.
We made a short adapter plug for these batteries.


The thin one fits nice in the side of the bag. and the little square is really sweet.


Another nice thing about using a big battery with both, is if the sonar has the feature, it can tell you how much juice you have left. Good to know when you venture out a ways.
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[kandersonSLC]

Got it. My battery case uses these wing-nut connectors that I've never been thrilled with. No matter how hard you tighten, the motor cables eventually work loose.

Going to add a large connector for motor and smaller connector for sonar, like yours.

That would be nice to run all electronics off one battery.

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[flygoddess]

Love that battery box!
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[dayhut]

When it comes to motor connections, surface area is your friend...

Clips are convenient, but also the worst, because they have minimal contact with the battery terminals. This mean delivering the current demand of the motor through poor, minimal connections causes your battery to work harder. It MUST DELIVER the current demanded of it; good old Ohms Law tells us that.
But making it to do so through the power robbing impedance mismatch of minimal connections forces it into an Overdrive state. Now, add several of these mismatches along the wires of the system… and you shorten the batteries charge life and potentially it's service life.
(This also applies to charging, in reverse).

The best connections are broad, flat ones that match the surface area of the battery terminals. The ones on your car are a good example. From there, connections to your driven devices should be made via wide, flat spade type connectors. Another good alternate would be the power plugs used by the car audio guys.

The ideal state of affairs is a straight, UNBROKEN, multi strand wire, properly sized to meet the current demand. This is impractical in mobile, float–tooning applications however

The next best thing is to have the minimum number of connections, and to ensure they each have a surface area matching the wires own surface area. Affix such battery connections permanently to the battery and make your interconnections with spade plugs.
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[kandersonSLC]

Thanks for the great information. I use the motor's spade connectors to attach to the battery box.

I took my box apart and found that the inside bolt on the positive side was loose, which probably explains my problems, including with the fish finder as the connection was likely arcing.

Took all connections apart and cleaned with contact cleaner. Should see an improvement.
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[dayhut]

[quote kandersonSLC]Thanks for the great information. I use the motor's spade connectors to attach to the battery box.

I took my box apart and found that the inside bolt on the positive side was loose, which is probably explains my problems, including with the fish finder as the connection was probably arcing.

Took all connections apart and cleaned with contact cleaner. Should see an improvement.[/quote]
Glad you found a problem. It sucks when we look and find nothing...

I scrub all connecting surfaces with Emory paper, a wire brush, or even a blade edge to expose bare metal and remove any surface corrosion. You'd be surprised at how this stuff builds up when around water; even an unseen amount causes a drop in delivered power.

Once cleaned, I mate the connectors. Once everything is right and tight [] I liberally apply a moisture inhibitor. I have some special stuff I get from work, but plain WD40 will do. Moisture intrusion within the connection is the next biggest power thief youll encounter, next to mismatched connections.

Now, I recommend you refrain from covering the connection with silicone. If gaps in the coverage exist, moisture gets in and the covering only serves to trap it. Because silicone is a messy, gloppy paste, guess what?
It is easy to create gaps!
If you want a coating, use something liquid, like the preparations created for the purpose. A paint on or spray on is best. In a pinch, nail polish, varnish or even gloss clear spray paint will do. Here, less is more:
Think skin coating, not a glob.

I spent a decade in the NAVY both conducting and teaching marine and avionics corrosion control. Today, I use nothing but moisture displacing compound, and maybe a shot of clear gloss enamel.
Then, I pay attention to the connections.

All this applies to EVERY connection you have, too, not just the ones at the battery. It is especially important around sophisticated, high gain electronics — like fish finders
Clean, tight connections, regularly inspected and protected from
moisture intrusion (WD-40), well… that is cheap insurance.
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[atvaholic]

hi Kanderson.

How many battery connections will you have?

I've considered trying one of these if I can get it for the right price. Maybe it can be mounted on that battery box.


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[mojorizing]

WD40 is for water displacement and short term lubrication.
I wouldn't use it for corrosion protection because, simply it will dry up. Might take a couple weeks but it will dry up on you. With a setup like Kevin has, just checking for loose nuts is about all that is needed. Clean the terminals once in a while, checking fluid levels and keeping them topped off after a charge is about all that is needed.
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[mojorizing]

No need for anything that elaborate. Folks, it's a deep cycle battery. On a kick boat. Used for a trolling motor and 12v fish finder. Simple connections. Add an inline fuse for the fishfinder and quick connectors if you want. 20 gauge wire. Tiny stuff.

This is what I use for motor to battery connection.http://www.batterymart.com/p-6331g2-sb-50-red-industrial-plug.html
Deutsch connector for fishfinders
http://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-connecto...fgodKh8Anw
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[dayhut]

This is what I use for motor to battery connection.http://www.batterymart.com/p-6331g2-sb-50-red-industrial-plug.html
Deutsch connector for fishfinders
http://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-connecto...fgodKh8Anw

Yeah those will do fine.
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[kandersonSLC]

[inline "Motor Connector.JPG"]Mojo - your connectors look like these from Minn Kota but at half the price. I like the weather proof connectors for the fish finder.
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[flygoddess]

I was just getting ready to post that same picture, saying I guess Minn Kota agrees they will work...LOL
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[kandersonSLC]

Got the MinnKotta connectors and they are indeed Anderson Connectors, model no. SB50A 600V. Picked up 10 (5 pairs) on eBay for $30 with shipping. I'll use them for connectors on my two trolling batteries, trolling motor, and NRS Blast inflator pump.

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[flygoddess]

SAWEEET! That is less than Minn Kota wants for ONE. Great score.
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[mojorizing]

You got them for a good price. Nice score. SB50 means it's a 50 amp connector.
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