06-20-2019, 03:24 PM
[#0000FF]Seems like this discussion comes up at least once a year on the board. Circle hooks? Some swear by them. Others swear at them. And, like many other things fishing, anglers tend to form hard and fast opinions based upon the (positive or negative) results of only one or two trips.[/#0000FF]
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[#0000FF]My personal opinion is that there is a lot more to the success or failure of any given hook than hook style alone.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]1. Hook size. As has been mentioned, larger hooks will discourage smaller fish. But they also allow for using bigger baits and/or leaving the hook point well exposed for a "grab". Covering the point of any hook...circle, octopus or standard J hook...will act like a weed guard on lures...preventing the hook from doing its job.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]2. Hook sharpness. No matter what kind of hook you use it should be SHARP. Some hooks are available with "lazer sharpness" right out of the box. Others require a few seconds with a good hook hone to make them effective. And anytime you rely on the fish's surge away from you to set the hook you need sharpness in your favor.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]3. Resistance. As has been mentioned, circle hooks (and others) will do their job better on a first surge hookset if the fish is pulling against a stout rod and line with minimal stretch. Or, as has been suggested by IceSled, against a larger bobber for more resistance.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]4. Insurance hooksets. Even with a circle hook it is sometimes necessary to "pop their chops" after the first surge. But if you are not experiencing "long line releases" it may not be needed. However, on some days the fish act differently and a followup whack might bring more bigguns to the net.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]5. Knots. As has also been mentioned, it is important to attach the hook to your line with a knot that will provide a direct pull...in line with the point of the hook. Otherwise the hook can rotate away from fish flesh and you don't make a connection. Your knots should also be high percentage knots, to prevent breaking the line at the hook connection, either on the strike or during the battle.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]6. Baits. There are a lot of differences in the types and sizes of baits. Baits should be big enough to attract the larger fish and discourage (most of) the smaller ones. But they should not be so big and thick that your choice of hooks gets lost in the bait. Use a sharp knife or pair of fishing shears to trim the hooked portion of the bait if necessary...to insure that the point of the hook is exposed enough to get the job done.[/#0000FF]
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[#0000FF]I have tried circle hooks off and on for many years and for many species. There are times, places and species for which circle hooks make more sense. But for catfish in Utah I generally use 5/0 to 7/0 ring eye J hooks. When I fish them like circle hooks...letting the fish pull tight on the first surge, almost all my fish are hooked in the corner of the mouth. When the fish are being more persnickety and dropping the bait when they feel resistance, I let them run a bit before whacking them. Still, most are hooked in the corner of the mouth or at least near the outside of the mouth. I seldom donate more than one or two hooks on even a high numbers day.[/#0000FF]
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[#0000FF]One thing that has really reinforced to me that letting the fish hook themselves on the strike is a good thing...is my increasing use of fligs. The ones I use for cats all have at least 5/0 sharp hooks. And since I fish with a closed bail...or casting reel engaged...there is no "waiting period". Wham, bam. And most days it is almost 100% hookup on the fish that grab and go. Yes, there are some fishless whacks...but the ones that get the bait and flig in their mouths are almost always well hooked...and almost always right in the corner of the mouth.[/#0000FF]
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[#0000FF]So, to me it seems like any good large sharp hook will work as well as a circle hook...for sticking a fish on the strike and planting the hook in the corner of their mouths. That is, if you make sure all of the other elements are covered.
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[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]My personal opinion is that there is a lot more to the success or failure of any given hook than hook style alone.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]1. Hook size. As has been mentioned, larger hooks will discourage smaller fish. But they also allow for using bigger baits and/or leaving the hook point well exposed for a "grab". Covering the point of any hook...circle, octopus or standard J hook...will act like a weed guard on lures...preventing the hook from doing its job.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]2. Hook sharpness. No matter what kind of hook you use it should be SHARP. Some hooks are available with "lazer sharpness" right out of the box. Others require a few seconds with a good hook hone to make them effective. And anytime you rely on the fish's surge away from you to set the hook you need sharpness in your favor.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]3. Resistance. As has been mentioned, circle hooks (and others) will do their job better on a first surge hookset if the fish is pulling against a stout rod and line with minimal stretch. Or, as has been suggested by IceSled, against a larger bobber for more resistance.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]4. Insurance hooksets. Even with a circle hook it is sometimes necessary to "pop their chops" after the first surge. But if you are not experiencing "long line releases" it may not be needed. However, on some days the fish act differently and a followup whack might bring more bigguns to the net.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]5. Knots. As has also been mentioned, it is important to attach the hook to your line with a knot that will provide a direct pull...in line with the point of the hook. Otherwise the hook can rotate away from fish flesh and you don't make a connection. Your knots should also be high percentage knots, to prevent breaking the line at the hook connection, either on the strike or during the battle.[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]6. Baits. There are a lot of differences in the types and sizes of baits. Baits should be big enough to attract the larger fish and discourage (most of) the smaller ones. But they should not be so big and thick that your choice of hooks gets lost in the bait. Use a sharp knife or pair of fishing shears to trim the hooked portion of the bait if necessary...to insure that the point of the hook is exposed enough to get the job done.[/#0000FF]
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[/#0000FF]
[#0000FF]I have tried circle hooks off and on for many years and for many species. There are times, places and species for which circle hooks make more sense. But for catfish in Utah I generally use 5/0 to 7/0 ring eye J hooks. When I fish them like circle hooks...letting the fish pull tight on the first surge, almost all my fish are hooked in the corner of the mouth. When the fish are being more persnickety and dropping the bait when they feel resistance, I let them run a bit before whacking them. Still, most are hooked in the corner of the mouth or at least near the outside of the mouth. I seldom donate more than one or two hooks on even a high numbers day.[/#0000FF]
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[#0000FF]One thing that has really reinforced to me that letting the fish hook themselves on the strike is a good thing...is my increasing use of fligs. The ones I use for cats all have at least 5/0 sharp hooks. And since I fish with a closed bail...or casting reel engaged...there is no "waiting period". Wham, bam. And most days it is almost 100% hookup on the fish that grab and go. Yes, there are some fishless whacks...but the ones that get the bait and flig in their mouths are almost always well hooked...and almost always right in the corner of the mouth.[/#0000FF]
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[#0000FF]So, to me it seems like any good large sharp hook will work as well as a circle hook...for sticking a fish on the strike and planting the hook in the corner of their mouths. That is, if you make sure all of the other elements are covered.
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