I've shopped a lot for boats in years past and one thing that I've noticed a lot of is bent transoms. This is due to trailering with the motor up with OR without using the factory locking feature. Trailering like this literally bends the transom every time you hit a bump. What you seek is a TRANSOM SAVER device. This cradles the lower unit of the big motor and the other end of the transom saver goes again the TRAILER. This takes ALL of the stress OFF of the transom.
A kicker can be trailered in the DOWN position as they usually won't come near the ground but a transom saver can be used here also. Even smaller kickers can still put a lot of stress on a transom if trailered UP without a transom saver.
Outboards should always be stored DOWN when not in use to allow drainage to prevent freezing AND to prevent water from calcifying inside the compartments in the lower unit. Replace a few impellers and you'll see what I mean. Lots of white calcium buildup on the ones that people just leave up when not in use. Also, as mentioned above...sometimes oil will flow and pool where it really shouldn't. This could easily foul your plugs every now and then and cause hard starting and poor running.
Here is what I do, and I didn't invent this, it was taught to me by many people:
1. Trailer with TRANSOM SAVERS always. Do not use the factory support for trailering. (Transom savers are cheap and easy to install by the way).
2. When you get home from fishing, remove the transom savers, and lower the outboards all the way down to allow full drainage and leave the motor(s) down when in your driveway. This prevents water from calcifying and freezing. You should also BUMP the motors over, all the way down, when you take the boat out of the lake to remove the water from the impeller compartments. (for the same reasons as stated above). Also, with the motor down, it keeps the oils from going where they should be going and settling as mentioned above. It's just good practice to leave the motors down when not in use.
On the water, big motor can be up or down when using the little motor for trolling, doesn't matter. I think it steers better with the big motor down. At the same time...make sure the little motor is UP when using the big motor...leaving it down WILL bend the transom or rip off the motor when under way with the big motor! (I've seen this happen!)
Next time you are driving down the freeway, start noticing boats on trailers with outboards. Most WILL already have transom savers installed and you won't see any "bouncing" of the motor flexing the transom. But look around for someone who doesn't have a transom saver and notice how much the transom flexes when they hit a bump. Especially bigger motors like 150's or above. It will shock you.
Transom failures are one of the most common causes of boats needing to be "retired". And the biggest stress to the transom is NOT when the boat is being used on the water, it's when the boat is being trailered.
DISCLAIMER: The above is my opinion only. Your mileage may vary! I've also run into people who advise AGAINST using the transom savers. So you will need to do research and decide for yourself. I also thought about the vibration that the trailer can put on the outdrive. Some transom savers come with a spring inside, but those are NOT recommended for hydraulic/electric ram systems. I also don't force the hydraulics super tight against the transom saver.
There are pro's and con's with ANY method. I personally think the transom saver is the best option. The big convincer for me was following a guy with a a big 200 Mercury one day and watching that motor flex his transom every time he hit a bump. He was using the factory locking mechanism and it was shocking how much that motor flexed.
A kicker can be trailered in the DOWN position as they usually won't come near the ground but a transom saver can be used here also. Even smaller kickers can still put a lot of stress on a transom if trailered UP without a transom saver.
Outboards should always be stored DOWN when not in use to allow drainage to prevent freezing AND to prevent water from calcifying inside the compartments in the lower unit. Replace a few impellers and you'll see what I mean. Lots of white calcium buildup on the ones that people just leave up when not in use. Also, as mentioned above...sometimes oil will flow and pool where it really shouldn't. This could easily foul your plugs every now and then and cause hard starting and poor running.
Here is what I do, and I didn't invent this, it was taught to me by many people:
1. Trailer with TRANSOM SAVERS always. Do not use the factory support for trailering. (Transom savers are cheap and easy to install by the way).
2. When you get home from fishing, remove the transom savers, and lower the outboards all the way down to allow full drainage and leave the motor(s) down when in your driveway. This prevents water from calcifying and freezing. You should also BUMP the motors over, all the way down, when you take the boat out of the lake to remove the water from the impeller compartments. (for the same reasons as stated above). Also, with the motor down, it keeps the oils from going where they should be going and settling as mentioned above. It's just good practice to leave the motors down when not in use.
On the water, big motor can be up or down when using the little motor for trolling, doesn't matter. I think it steers better with the big motor down. At the same time...make sure the little motor is UP when using the big motor...leaving it down WILL bend the transom or rip off the motor when under way with the big motor! (I've seen this happen!)
Next time you are driving down the freeway, start noticing boats on trailers with outboards. Most WILL already have transom savers installed and you won't see any "bouncing" of the motor flexing the transom. But look around for someone who doesn't have a transom saver and notice how much the transom flexes when they hit a bump. Especially bigger motors like 150's or above. It will shock you.
Transom failures are one of the most common causes of boats needing to be "retired". And the biggest stress to the transom is NOT when the boat is being used on the water, it's when the boat is being trailered.
DISCLAIMER: The above is my opinion only. Your mileage may vary! I've also run into people who advise AGAINST using the transom savers. So you will need to do research and decide for yourself. I also thought about the vibration that the trailer can put on the outdrive. Some transom savers come with a spring inside, but those are NOT recommended for hydraulic/electric ram systems. I also don't force the hydraulics super tight against the transom saver.
There are pro's and con's with ANY method. I personally think the transom saver is the best option. The big convincer for me was following a guy with a a big 200 Mercury one day and watching that motor flex his transom every time he hit a bump. He was using the factory locking mechanism and it was shocking how much that motor flexed.
I used to N.ot have E.nough T.ime O.ff to go fishing. Then I retired. Now I have less time than I had before. Sheesh.