11-13-2005, 11:27 AM
[cool][#0000ff]Thanks for droppin' in and hope we can help you make up your own mind. You might want to spend some time reading down through The Best of The Best, and looking through the [url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=202637;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread"]Sonar Buying Guide[/url] (link) in the picture section.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The simple answer, at least from my point of view, is that a good 20 degree transducer often works just fine. Most of the 60 degree transducers are not "full time" but the wider cone angle is a matter of adjustment on your menu.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Even in the relatively shallower waters typically fished by tubers, you do not really sacrifice anything with a 20. I can't say the same thing about the 9 degree units I have tried. Both will tell you the depth. Better models will have a good "gray line" feature to help you read what kind of bottom you are over...and finer details on the contours. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The wider the cone angle, the more fish "targets" you can see under your transducer. However, actually seeing the fish is only a small percentage of the real value of a sonar. It is rare that you actually fish for (and catch) the fish you see directly below you. Sonar's biggest contribution in locating fish is to tell you 1. If you are fishing where the fish are 2. Where the fish are in the water column 3. Whether they are schooling and holding or just breezing through.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Knowing the preferred depth can be important in lure or fly presentation. But, only when the fish are holding around a defined area, due to structure or whatever, will you be trying to stay on top of them for a vertical presentation. The rest of the time you will simply be concentrating on staying in "the zone"...with the right depth and structure. That's why you keep an eye on the display screen.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]You can easily spend a lot more than you have to for a tubing sonar. However, once you become skilled at using and reading it, you may find yourself lusting after units with more bells and whistles. If you are able to take full advantage of them, then you can justify the added expense.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Now, while almost any sonar will also work for ice fishing, to let you know depth and to display fish targets, the lower end units are not ideal for ice fishing. In fact, a good "flasher" unit...or a higher end sonar with "real time" display is better for ice fishing. It is really an advantage to be able to track your jig below you and to see the fish as they either come up to the jig, or turn and go away. Having a good ice fishing sonar can really make a difference.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]That being said, there are lots of guys that use lower end units, or no sonar at all, and they still do fine. Fishing skills are important too.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Good luck. Let us know what you decide on and how it works for you.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The simple answer, at least from my point of view, is that a good 20 degree transducer often works just fine. Most of the 60 degree transducers are not "full time" but the wider cone angle is a matter of adjustment on your menu.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Even in the relatively shallower waters typically fished by tubers, you do not really sacrifice anything with a 20. I can't say the same thing about the 9 degree units I have tried. Both will tell you the depth. Better models will have a good "gray line" feature to help you read what kind of bottom you are over...and finer details on the contours. [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The wider the cone angle, the more fish "targets" you can see under your transducer. However, actually seeing the fish is only a small percentage of the real value of a sonar. It is rare that you actually fish for (and catch) the fish you see directly below you. Sonar's biggest contribution in locating fish is to tell you 1. If you are fishing where the fish are 2. Where the fish are in the water column 3. Whether they are schooling and holding or just breezing through.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Knowing the preferred depth can be important in lure or fly presentation. But, only when the fish are holding around a defined area, due to structure or whatever, will you be trying to stay on top of them for a vertical presentation. The rest of the time you will simply be concentrating on staying in "the zone"...with the right depth and structure. That's why you keep an eye on the display screen.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]You can easily spend a lot more than you have to for a tubing sonar. However, once you become skilled at using and reading it, you may find yourself lusting after units with more bells and whistles. If you are able to take full advantage of them, then you can justify the added expense.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Now, while almost any sonar will also work for ice fishing, to let you know depth and to display fish targets, the lower end units are not ideal for ice fishing. In fact, a good "flasher" unit...or a higher end sonar with "real time" display is better for ice fishing. It is really an advantage to be able to track your jig below you and to see the fish as they either come up to the jig, or turn and go away. Having a good ice fishing sonar can really make a difference.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]That being said, there are lots of guys that use lower end units, or no sonar at all, and they still do fine. Fishing skills are important too.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Good luck. Let us know what you decide on and how it works for you.[/#0000ff]
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