10-05-2009, 12:23 AM
[cool][#0000ff]There are several members who have set up a single sonar unit to be easily interchanged between their favorite tube and/or a toon or kayak. And, with the setup I use, I can easily put the components in an insulated container and take them out on the ice for ice fishing. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]My current sonar is the Humminbird 565. It is a step up from the less expensive Eagle units but neither as pricey or as high in wattage as some of the more exotic sonars. It does everything a tooner or tuber needs, without spending a lot of extra money. If you watch online you can usually get one for under $200.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The key, for multi craft installation is to set up the basic mounting hardware the same on each craft...and then simply move the sonar to whichever one you want to take out for the day.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Come on back if you need some more pictures or assistance in standardizing your craft setup. The main idea is to have a quick attach mount for both the sonar display and the transducer. Hopefully you can derive enough from previously posted pictures but I have more detailed ones if needed.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Some of the terms: [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Watts: The higher the peak to peak watts, the more sensitive the unit will be and the better the detail it will pick up and display. Low wattage units (under 1000 watts) tend to show a lot of false readings, etc..[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Cone angle: The angle at which the transducer shoots a sonar beam can be important. The narrower the beam, the smaller the area it covers and the less you see on the screen. A 20 degree cone is about average. That means that the area you see is equal to about 1/3 of the depth...or about a 5 foot circle at 15 feet depth...and smaller between top and bottom. A 60 degree cone angle shows an area equal to the depth...or a 10 foot circle at 10 feet. The Humminbird 565 has a dual cone angle...20 degrees AND 60 degrees. All of the fish within the 20 degree cone show up in dark black. The fish outside the 20 degree cone, but inside the 60 degree cone, show up as outlines only. This lets you see more fish in the area and to know the ones that are directly below you.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Temperature: It is good to have a temp guage on your sonar. Many times the fish will respond to minor changes in water temp and it is good to monitor it as the day goes on and as you move from spot to spot.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Speed: Not necessary.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]GPS: Optional. Better as a separate unit.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Color: Nice for nice, but nonessential.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]That should get you started.[/#0000ff]
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[size 4][#000000][size 3][url "http://www.lowrance.com/Support/Tips-and-Tutorials/Sonar-Tutorial/"]http://www.lowrance.com/Support/Tips-and-Tutorials/Sonar-Tutorial/[/url][/size][/#000000][/size][signature]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]My current sonar is the Humminbird 565. It is a step up from the less expensive Eagle units but neither as pricey or as high in wattage as some of the more exotic sonars. It does everything a tooner or tuber needs, without spending a lot of extra money. If you watch online you can usually get one for under $200.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]The key, for multi craft installation is to set up the basic mounting hardware the same on each craft...and then simply move the sonar to whichever one you want to take out for the day.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Come on back if you need some more pictures or assistance in standardizing your craft setup. The main idea is to have a quick attach mount for both the sonar display and the transducer. Hopefully you can derive enough from previously posted pictures but I have more detailed ones if needed.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Some of the terms: [/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Watts: The higher the peak to peak watts, the more sensitive the unit will be and the better the detail it will pick up and display. Low wattage units (under 1000 watts) tend to show a lot of false readings, etc..[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Cone angle: The angle at which the transducer shoots a sonar beam can be important. The narrower the beam, the smaller the area it covers and the less you see on the screen. A 20 degree cone is about average. That means that the area you see is equal to about 1/3 of the depth...or about a 5 foot circle at 15 feet depth...and smaller between top and bottom. A 60 degree cone angle shows an area equal to the depth...or a 10 foot circle at 10 feet. The Humminbird 565 has a dual cone angle...20 degrees AND 60 degrees. All of the fish within the 20 degree cone show up in dark black. The fish outside the 20 degree cone, but inside the 60 degree cone, show up as outlines only. This lets you see more fish in the area and to know the ones that are directly below you.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Temperature: It is good to have a temp guage on your sonar. Many times the fish will respond to minor changes in water temp and it is good to monitor it as the day goes on and as you move from spot to spot.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Speed: Not necessary.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]GPS: Optional. Better as a separate unit.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]Color: Nice for nice, but nonessential.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]That should get you started.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[size 4][#000000][size 3][url "http://www.lowrance.com/Support/Tips-and-Tutorials/Sonar-Tutorial/"]http://www.lowrance.com/Support/Tips-and-Tutorials/Sonar-Tutorial/[/url][/size][/#000000][/size][signature]