10-08-2003, 06:12 PM
I didn't read all the other replies, so at the risk of repetition here's a few things to check on a used boat...
1. Would you buy a car without driving it first? I doubt anyone would. But it's common for people to buy boats without an on-the-water test ride. Insist on a test ride. 2. Check the lower unit fluid. Open the bottom screw on the foot and look at the color of the oil that comes out. Is it black? ...milky? The former indicates dirty, unchanged lube, begging when was the last time it was changed; the latter indicating water in the fluid and a leak in the seal. Or if water comes out, there could be internal rust and corrosion--a bad sign. The condition of the lower unit lube is your best indicator of hidden damage to the lower unit. 3. Turn the prop; is the prop shaft bent? Any big dings in the prop? ...or the skeg? Be wary of lower unit damage. 4. Ask when the impellar was last changed. On your test drive watch how the guy treats it. Does he start the motor out of the water? Does it have a strong pee stream? How hot is the water coming from the pee stream after running the motor for a while? 5. How much water do you have to drain from the bilge after your test ride? 6. Ask the owner how he winterizes. Does he treat the gas? Remove all water from block, livewells, bilge, etc? 7. How is hole shot, any blow-outs on sharp turns? Does it list or pull while getting on plane or while on plane? Are you satisfied with the performance? 8. Don't forget the trailer--they can be a major source of pain. Are the tires in good shape? Is one side more worn than the other? How's the bearings? (you'll probably want to replace them anyway just to be sure). Is the axel bent? Do the tires spin freely? Uneven wear, cupping, etc can be signs of an out-of-balance trailer. Do the lights work? 9. Is there room on the bow for an electric trolling motor? Room on the transom for a kicker? Or will you be able to troll with the big motor? Will the big motor idle down and stay there all day? 10. Is there a cover? 11. What's the condition of the transom? Any rot to weaken it? How about the floor.
That's just a starter list--off the top of my head. In short, look at how much you'll pay for the boat and how much work and cash you'll have to put into it to get it to where you want it. Then will you get that money back when you sell to upgrade? Or will it fit your needs for fish/ski/cruise and general enjoyment?
Don't be swayed by the naysayers. A boat does cost money, but that's what money is for. Just listen to your head and not your heart and you'll make the right choice. Remember, fall and winter is the best time to buy a boat. Also check [url "http://www.traderonline"]www.traderonline[/url] for tons of boats to help you decide on price and see what's available. Also check [url "http://www.nadaguides.com"]www.nadaguides.com[/url] for pricing.
Good luck.
1. Would you buy a car without driving it first? I doubt anyone would. But it's common for people to buy boats without an on-the-water test ride. Insist on a test ride. 2. Check the lower unit fluid. Open the bottom screw on the foot and look at the color of the oil that comes out. Is it black? ...milky? The former indicates dirty, unchanged lube, begging when was the last time it was changed; the latter indicating water in the fluid and a leak in the seal. Or if water comes out, there could be internal rust and corrosion--a bad sign. The condition of the lower unit lube is your best indicator of hidden damage to the lower unit. 3. Turn the prop; is the prop shaft bent? Any big dings in the prop? ...or the skeg? Be wary of lower unit damage. 4. Ask when the impellar was last changed. On your test drive watch how the guy treats it. Does he start the motor out of the water? Does it have a strong pee stream? How hot is the water coming from the pee stream after running the motor for a while? 5. How much water do you have to drain from the bilge after your test ride? 6. Ask the owner how he winterizes. Does he treat the gas? Remove all water from block, livewells, bilge, etc? 7. How is hole shot, any blow-outs on sharp turns? Does it list or pull while getting on plane or while on plane? Are you satisfied with the performance? 8. Don't forget the trailer--they can be a major source of pain. Are the tires in good shape? Is one side more worn than the other? How's the bearings? (you'll probably want to replace them anyway just to be sure). Is the axel bent? Do the tires spin freely? Uneven wear, cupping, etc can be signs of an out-of-balance trailer. Do the lights work? 9. Is there room on the bow for an electric trolling motor? Room on the transom for a kicker? Or will you be able to troll with the big motor? Will the big motor idle down and stay there all day? 10. Is there a cover? 11. What's the condition of the transom? Any rot to weaken it? How about the floor.
That's just a starter list--off the top of my head. In short, look at how much you'll pay for the boat and how much work and cash you'll have to put into it to get it to where you want it. Then will you get that money back when you sell to upgrade? Or will it fit your needs for fish/ski/cruise and general enjoyment?
Don't be swayed by the naysayers. A boat does cost money, but that's what money is for. Just listen to your head and not your heart and you'll make the right choice. Remember, fall and winter is the best time to buy a boat. Also check [url "http://www.traderonline"]www.traderonline[/url] for tons of boats to help you decide on price and see what's available. Also check [url "http://www.nadaguides.com"]www.nadaguides.com[/url] for pricing.
Good luck.